Brand new 2022 Tacoma starting problems and loud blower fan noise

2022 TRD auto. 88 miles. Last night I installed a quick disconnect negative battery terminal. Started truck after, it stumbled a little bit but fired up. Same thing twice.

Sat over night in garage. Went to drive it this morning and crank crank crank crank. Try again, crank crank crank crank.

Tried holding the key fob next to the push button and crank crank crank crank crank crank, cough, sputtered and finally came to life.

What's up with that? Seems to start normally now except the blower fan for the hvac is making a loud annoying whining noise.

 

remove that and see if the prob goes away maybe? not sure why that would cause this issue but never hurts to see...

 

Yep, have you tried taking the quick disconnect off? Sounds like it could very well be causing the issues...probably doesn't have a solid connection.

 

I haven't tried taking it off but it cranked lively like it had lots of voltage. Here is the style of terminal I used. Connections are clean and tight. I can't see how it would cause the starting problem.

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NW_785111?r-src=SSE:PDP&ppid=NW_728218&ir=5&tps=10

 

Before you decide that "how it would cause the problem", try REMOVING it from the equation.

 

I was suspecting it has something to do with the security system. I'll remove it and see what happens. Its been starting normally now the last few tries.

 

What is the one and only thing you changed and then the problem started? One and only? You came here and asked, yet you don't want to listen?

 

My uncle had a bad time with those on his motorhome. Any real reason to run one on your Taco?

 

From that picture, I think that the knife bar looks too thin to supply the current necessary. To prove that, jump across it with a good jumper cable and see if that helps.

 

What is the purpose of the disconnect? Just curious why you'd put that junk on a brand new truck?

 

Was going to say, it looks flimsy as hell. Bet it gets hot after cranking to fire it up.

 

Because the truck will be parked inside a container for extended periods of time when not in use. Wanted a quick and easy solution to cut off the battery. No power available to use a battery maintainer. I'll try finding something better.

 

No shit. He asks our advice, then disregards it all and says "I'll wait it out and try something else."

 

I'm not saying I don't want to listen, but either the battery gets a lot of voltage or it doesn't. The starter was turning as quickly as it did before I installed the QD. There were no indications of low voltage or poor connection. So logically it seems unlikely to be the actual cause. But I already stated I will remove it and see if the problem goes away.

My friend runs these same terminals on four Tundras and one Tacoma without issue.

 

Reading comprehension. I said I would remove it.

 

We had issues on my wife's 2017 Highlander (same drivetrain as Taco). After only about 2 years of owning it, it was doing the same thing, cranking but wouldn't start. I tested the battery and it was like 12.4 volts, multiple testers said it was good and we also tested at Autozone. Put it back in, seemed fine for a day, then same problem. Finally replaced the battery and it went away. My opinion (no data here), is that the absolute stupid-assed feature of the auto-start stop puts a lot of extra load on the battery, as at stop lights all the accessories have to run off battery. I think that causes them to go bad really quick or leaves them with a low charge and the computer won't start or even sometimes try to crank. Also, fast forward to more years (2017-2019, then 2021) the 2nd battery failed (under warranty). I wish you could permanently disable the auto-start/stop feature, and I heard on some vehicles due to chip shortage they have removed the feature. That would be amazing if my truck coming in a couple of weeks was missing that feature.

Most likely your issue is the quick disconnect, but I will say on the 3.5L platform I don't trust the electrical system with auto start/stop enabled

 

I am curious if there is a good quick disconnect of sorts that people recommend. Would be handy when working on electrical stuff to have something like that installed.

 

I'm not sure if you missed the other 8 responses to remove the quick disconnect, but I'm here to let you know, you should try to remove the quick disconnect and see if the problem goes away.

 

Not 100% sure about this but wouldn't you lose radio presets and even delete driving habits from your ecu by using a cutoff?

 

Darwin is on a roll today