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Brand New Head, still running rough! Your thoughts?

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by oldblue, Jan 17, 2010.

  1. Jan 17, 2010 at 6:16 PM
    #1
    oldblue

    oldblue [OP] Member

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    Ok. Here's the deal:
    I bought a 95.5 taco a few weeks ago (for really cheap!). It was running VERY rough and the CEL is on. The previous owner brought it to Indiana from California just a couple years ago, so there isn't a speck of rust on it anywhere. Other than the motor, the truck is perfect. It was always dealer serviced, and supposedly had synthetic since day one. When the motor developed the problem, the he took it to the dealer who diagnosed it as a cracked head.

    He didn't want to deal with it, so I took it off his hands. I tore it down, took the head off and took it to a machine shop to have it pressure tested. It was definitely cracked. There was a visible crack between the intake and exhaust valves on the #3 cylinder.

    I ordered a new head (new casting from a reputable dealer but not a Genuine Toyota part). It came with new cams, new valvetrain, and everything adjusted to specs. Also ordered a new head gasket and complete gasket set and new head bolts (Toyota parts from a Toyota dealer). I also spent $120 on a new EGR tube because I found the old one was broken. And I changed the fuel filter because I doubt it had ever been changed. I put it all back together yesterday and fired it up this morning after I refilled the coolant.

    Here's the problem: It still runs like shit! It's better than before, but it's still missing out. I'm going to change the plugs out tomorrow to see if that helps, but I don't know what else to do.

    180K miles
    Auto
    4x4
    2.7L (early model) w/ distributor

    Anybody got any ideas? I've sunk $1000 in parts, and I've done everything according to the factory service manual, using a haynes manual for secondary info. I can't find a way to adjust he ignition timing? Is it possible that it would run like this if the distributor gear went in one tooth off or something? Thanks in advance, any replies appreciated!
     
  2. Jan 17, 2010 at 6:38 PM
    #2
    rhodehard09

    rhodehard09 sometimes nonsense is the only sense someone has

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    i would check the timing first there should be a bolt holding the distributer into the block you could loosen this and turn it a little bit to see if it clears up(with the motor running). are you sure you lined up the timing marks on the belt or chain with the marks on the gears? just one tooth off could make all the difference! if this doesn't clear mit up change the plugs, wires, cap and rotor(probably should have done this when changing the head). if it still isn't cleared up it could really be any number of things: o2 sensor, maf sensor, egr valve, fuel air mixture
    hope this helps!:)
     
  3. Jan 18, 2010 at 1:33 PM
    #3
    oldblue

    oldblue [OP] Member

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    I changed the plugs today, thinking maybe I had one fouled or messed up because of the previous misfire. I already dumped almost $1000 into it, I was trying to avoid buying a completely new ignition system. I messed with it some more today, but now I can't even get it to fire, so I feel like I've taken a step back from running rough yesterday. I've had the distributor out so many times now I think I could do it blindfolded. I read a code with my OBDII pocket scanner- P0115. Any reason that would affect starting or running?

    Rhodehard: There is no bolt that allows the distributor to be turned. It hard-mounts to the head. That's what I don't understand about it. The Haynes manual says that the breakerless distributor ignition timing is controlled by the ECM and "ensures a perfectly timed spark under all conditions" Ha!
     
  4. Jan 18, 2010 at 2:30 PM
    #4
    Werloc

    Werloc Large Member

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    I just had a bad miss on Sunday. Started running rough, then after a few miles the Check Engine light went on. Today my shop changed the Plugs, and Ignition Coil Pack (which was $165.). Now it runs like a champ. Maybe something you can check. I also have a 2.7L engine.....;)

    Hope this helps...:)
     
  5. Jan 18, 2010 at 2:37 PM
    #5
    98tacoma27

    98tacoma27 is gooder 'en chicken Moderator

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    It is possible you are a tooth off. It will not hurt to take it out and move it one tooth one way to see if it changes. Also, the P0115 is the coolant temperature sensor. Check the sensor to make sure you hooked it back up or if it is loose. I don't think it will cause the motor to not start.
     
  6. Jan 18, 2010 at 4:20 PM
    #6
    oldblue

    oldblue [OP] Member

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    werloc- Mine is a couple years older and doesn't have coil pacs

    98tacoma27- I'll check on the sensor.

    Then I'm gonna take the distributor out a couple more times and move it forward a tooth and back a tooth.... Then I'm gonna start breaking down ignition components and checking resistance and continuity... then I'm gonna start smashing things with a hammer when that doesn't work out...
     
  7. Jan 18, 2010 at 5:31 PM
    #7
    rhodehard09

    rhodehard09 sometimes nonsense is the only sense someone has

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    put the hammer down bro!
    but in all seriousness, were you sure to line up all the timing marks on the chain/belt and gears when you put the head back on? that can also be a tooth off.
     
  8. Jan 18, 2010 at 6:05 PM
    #8
    oldblue

    oldblue [OP] Member

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    I double and triple checked everything but I suppose I could tear it down again and make sure I didn't slip a tooth or something.
     
  9. Jan 22, 2010 at 2:06 PM
    #9
    oldblue

    oldblue [OP] Member

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    Turns out the problem was that I did not re-connect the coolant temp sensor when I reinstalled the wire harness. The sensor is all the way back by the fire wall, and buried under the wiring harness. Impossible to see, it's not surprising I missed it. I couldn't believe that one stupid little sensor caused all those problems. It's still a little sluggish and idles kind of rough. those are my next projects.
     
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