Break override malfunction

So I went to put my truck into 4 High today and my truck pulled a code saying “break override malfunction”. Then I threw it in park and noticed I couldn’t shift out of park. I found the fuse was blown. Well I replaced the 10 amp fuse with another 10amp spare (I didn’t check to see if it was blown either (yes I know I should’ve)). I really don’t know if it was blown too before putting it in there. Then I put a 15th fuse in. It definitely wasn’t blown. It blew instantly. Then I put a 30amp fuse in there and that got it to the house. Anyone else have this problem and does anyone else know what I need to do from here?

 

Also I threw it in park and turned it off right after this picture was taken

 

It's a very bad idea to replace a fuse with a higher amp rating! The fuse is there to protect the circuit from overload, and a higher amp rated fuse will no longer protect the circuit within it's designed amp rating.
The starting point is to find the short, don't just keep replacing blown fuses.
Any other electrical repairs or modifications? If so, start there first.
It is hard to see in your signature pic, but is that aftermarket bumper near or covering the front grill sensor? That should be checked too.
Have you done any water crossings? You could have dunked the actuator and shorted it.

 

I didn’t have anything else on hand to get it up the driveway. I drove maybe two minutes or less up to the house. I haven’t had any electrical problems before so I haven’t had to repair anything, but last week I did have to change my backup lights from my old led’s to new ones. I did that last Thursday. And also I did get a replacement for my Sony 9500es plug and play. I installed that Sunday

 

Two minutes or two seconds - if the current is high enough to blow the rated fuse, it may very well fry electronic modules the instant you install the higher rated fuse. You may have got lucky in your particular case, but I would highly recommend NOT trying that again...

 

If it had a 10 amp, and it blew a 15amp, you are lucky as hell that you got away with driving it on 30 amp.

Dont push your luck, tow if you need to.

 

Just asking... do you have a Pedal Commander or similar throttle control unit installed?

 

No I do not, but I did in fact find the culprit. My driver side tail light was full of water from the car wash I went through before headed home. I just ordered factory tail lights. It is up back and running with a new 10 amp fuse in it. I drove it 20 minutes down the road

 

In my case the culprit was a defective throttle body assembly

 

Did you try replacing the blown fuse with one rated 3x the amperage first?

 

oh now i see, i thought you Broke the override malfunction because the system was telling you to break the override malfunction but it was a brake override malfunction.

 

Don’t blow a fews - give the man a braik!

 

Wow OP, you broke the Cardinal rule of working with electricity. Hell, you might as well have shoved a copper penny in there! I have no idea what is causing your issue, but your troubleshooting technique is just plain stupid brother. Good luck in getting your issue corrected (the proper way).

 

Good luck and prepare to question your existence. Here is everything I did and used to find my short. I'm hoping your is much easier to find.


https://youtu.be/qSvTksadxiw?si=tIl1AGH826JCrnyx

 

I'm having the same issue and have been stalking the forums for awhile looking for a solid fix.

I just bought my 17 sport used with 118k on it. I have been driving it since November of 24, but never had this issue until beginning of this year.

The P2119(x2) code always comes up saying that there is an issue with the "throttle body range performance" in my case, so I've cleaned that and the MAF a few times. That only seemed to be a temporary fix.

Limped the truck over to Toyota a month ago and they told me my MAF sensor wasn't reading the correct voltage. I told them to go ahead and change it since it was "covered" in my 6 month warranty. Ended up getting billed $393 for something I could've done myself at home, but they didn't cover the cost as it "wasn't under the list of items covered by the warranty." Anyway, they keep it until the following Monday to drive it around to see if it was truly fixed. I pick it up Monday night after work and we're good.

Two weeks later driving to work and it does it again, so I decided to just turn around and bring it to the house to grab my car. After work I went get some taillights bulbs and a new brake switch. I figured maybe the button was staying depressed/stuck, which would make the truck insinuate I was pressing the gas and brake at the same time. Changed everything out and cleared the codes. No issues.... for another two weeks.

Drove about an hour away to see some friends Saturday, truck was fine all day until I was leaving to head back home. Same thing happens. I turn the truck off, go pull the 10amp stop fuse and replace it, clear the codes, and I'm back on the road. Overall, I went ahead and changed the stop, ETCS, and all 3 ECU fuses to be safe as of Sunday. None of them were blown, but the metal prongs looked burnt.

It's pretty frustrating tbh, but I'm just trying to see if these minor fixes for common issues of the "brake override malfunction" will end up remedying my problem. If it happens again, I'll most likely just change my throttle body and cross my fingers that's the end of it. It could be the opposite of what I was thinking with the brake switch. The butterfly on the throttle body may just be sticking open, so when I press the brake it throws the code figuring I'm pressing both simultaneously. I'm just not too happy about the idea of changing it and the issue coming back up again.

Just wanted to share everything I've tried so far in hopes that it may end up helping you out. Unfortunately, I have no way of knowing when my truck will randomly decide it wants to throw itself into limp mode.

 

^Update: No issues since fuse changes in mentioned spots!