Brice's NA V6 Build

You taking you time on this, right? Recommend that while you have everything off, you replace or clean your fuel injectors even if you aren't upgrading (at least with some remanufatured OEM's), replace your knock sensor (look up GM knock sensor swap on how to do this) as the stock tend to hate boost, clean all your shit (throttle body, IAC, etc...), replace any old vacuum hose, etc...

 

Well I ain't exactly moving fast. I'll look up the gm knock sensor deal, but I don't have money for new injectors lol. I'll see about cleaning them.

 

I couldn't find a write up for that conversion, but mine aren't bad anyway...sooooo I'll just wait lol

 

You don't know until you start boosting. Engine makes more noise under boost. If they are worn, they will cause your ECU to pull a lot of timing. If they aren't bad, its generally a matter of time.

Here's a good read on the knock sensors, I wish I did mine:

http://www.customtacos.com/forum/13-performance/184210-knock-sensor-anyone-use-ks46.html

 

Thanks for the link man. Apparently the best gm equivalent word be the SU1075 sensor, I'll do some more investigation

 

Excellent advice. I did this with my 3rz before boost, reassembled it back to stock to test it all out, and I felt a pretty decent improvement in performance just doing that stuff.

 

The deal with all that is it costs a lil bit more money and it adds up for me... I might as well just do knock sensors, intake gaskets, and my driver's side valve cover gasket while I'm there

 

If im correct I need two of these...

Wells SU1075 Ignition Knock/Detonation Sensor

https://www.amazon.com/Wells-SU1075...&qid=1471056237&sr=1-1&keywords=SU1075+sensor

 

Went ahead and ordered those two GM knock sensors and Intake gasket set. I already have the gaskets for the drivers side valve cover so guess I'll tackle that when I pull the intake. I also picked up some 3" to 2.5" silicone adapters at the auto parts store, as The stock MAF has a 3 inch body not a 2.75" as I had thought. Another lesson learnt I guess In other news...STOCK EXHAUST SUCKS! lol I ended up cutting the crossover on the passenger side and was able to unbolt it on the drivers side, after that it slid right out of the drivers side. Tomorrow I should be able to disconnect the lower portion, muffler, tail pipe etc... and get my inter cooler, oil cooler and manifolds mocked up. I was thinking of doing a side exit exhaust through the frame by cutting a hole, welding a pipe inside the frame and running my exhaust out behind my running boards to get a sort of corvette vibe Idk if the frame is even wide enough laterally to let that work...but I'll see tomorrow! Goodnight.

P.S. My stock manifolds were CLEAN like super clean. I had to really scrape my thumb across the insides of the manifolds to get any sut at all, this is encouraging.

 

@LogCabins Hey man, I cant sell you or anyone my air box, because I have to actually cut out my MAF housing which would ruin it for anyone else. Sorry man.

 

My bad bro....meant to tell you actually was smart enough to keep mine....found it in the attic Thanks for getting back to me though​

 

Yes, those should work. IIRC, either they thread right in or you need to re-thread them, I don't remember. Either way, you don't have to tap the block.

To install, IIRC, they don't/shouldn't bottom out but there should be some space between the sensor and the block to get an accurate reading. I think the threaded end is tapered to insure it doesn't bottom out. Def research how to install correctly before tackling the job.

That said, from all I've heard, its a pretty standard and simple install.

 

Yeah, me and you read the same stuff so we should be thinking alike. I shouldn't have to re thread but we'll see!

 

When can we expect to hear some choo choo noises out of this thing?

 

Mmm I'm not sure. I absolutely promise to have a video out today though. After that video I have some footage of it starting with no turbo on the new headers. Actual
turbo noises are scheduled for mid next week

 

I wouldn't screw with going through the frame.... That would be alot of work for practically nothing.

 

Btw, go ahead and remove your starter before trying to install the p side headers. There is a bolt for your motor mount that gets in the way of your starter. Taking that bolt out is easy and makes the starter removal much easier.

 

Thanks a ton! I was wondering how to get those tight!

 

Plug all the holes and make the frame the actual exhaust ahaha.

But really. I can that being a pain to do and it would cause the paint/undercoating to burn. Probably accelerate the rust aswell.

 

Well making the holes wouldn't be hard at all neither would welding nor painting. My main issue would be rust on the inside.