Brice's NA V6 Build

Ok so got the first video rendering right now... I haven't slept yet and it's 3:00am on sunday, but since I haven't slept it's still saturday sooooooooooooo technically the video is out saturday Link soon

EDIT: video rendered with errors...welp...Hows sunday morning sound?

EDIT:Adobe media encoder really doesn't like me lol...delayed again

 

Yeah I tried to get around the starter for almost an hour. Removing and reinstalling the starter took no more than 30 min total

 

Lol I tried working around it too but eventually gave up... Removed the starter today and got the manifold on but I gotta clean my starter since it had oil leak all over it.

 

So after all the issues I had, here's Part 1 of however many, I dunno yet lol. I apologize for any errors in the editing but this video reall didnt wanna be posted, It screwed up twice during rendering then failed to upload to youtube. Regardless here it is.

https://youtu.be/kyXQiEbMATM

 

Haha, Nice!

I used a socket and breaker as I could on the header bolts to loosen. Used ratchet wrenches once they were loose. Don't install your WG down pipe until the header is installed. And the open WG pipe is loud like trumpet!

 

Hell yeah man, appreciate the hard work!

 

Hey man I've run into some issues. I can't get my AN fitings to fit the line I have, neither the 10AN nor the 4AN and im sorta puzzled. What did you do for your oil lines? Also where did you route you inter cooler piping?

 

You using the CX provided lines? The CX return line was too small for the bung. I had to cut the steal and stretch the rubber over the fitting but that stared to rot and crack.

I didnt like the -10AN return hose because it was so big and bulky, I couldn't clock the turbo enough to get a good straight up and down angle on the feed and drain oil hoses. I found an -8AN flange and made a custom -8AN return line that let me better clock the turbo (not perfectly up and down as I wanted but better).

I ended up getting these:

-8AN Turbo return flange (double check this to fit your turbo; there is a T3 flange too IIRC on their site): http://www.xaturbo.com/products/tur...an-8-garrett-ball-bearing-gt25-gt28-gt30-gt35

-8AN female/female hose, 30" (a little long, 24" would probably be better but 30" was ok): https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fra-380030/overview/

-8AN Return bung: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aer-fbm2874/overview/

For the feed line, I taped into the block above the oil pressure sensor. I forgot the adapter you need but its in one of the many 5VZ turbo builds on here.

 

Alright thanks man. I'm just gonna order pre made lines for those bits. And no Im not using any of there connectors or hoses. A 10AN 45 degree connector fits my turbo pretty well so we'll see... What about your intercooler piping?

 

I used the CX intercooler kit but ran a smaller IC and mounted it up higher. Just cut down the CX pipes to fit the new mounting. Most IC kits will work fine, just plan out where you want to mount the IC (get measurements) before ordering. A miter saw with a metal cut wheel to chop the pipes down works great. You'll need a file to clean up the cuts.

 

Alright so I got the new knock sensors today and the new manifold gaskets yesterday. I managed to get the oil cooler mounted and changed the oil. I also managed to get the turbo all mounted up but didn't get any pics...Oh and got the oil drain in the pan of course! Most of what I just described will be in video soon.

Downpipe with 4-bolt adapter

Wastegate with 5.6lb spring

Pipe Thread with -4an fitting for pressurized oil feed. I unscrewed the hex bolt from under oil pressure sender.

And new knock sensors for a GMC sonoma 2.2L or part number SU1075 form Wells.

 

Well it seems I've bought the wrong knock sensors...We'll see! These fit the GMC 2.2L but I guess are different from the Chevy cavalier 2.2? I'm not sure...the threads aren't tapered and seem to be quite large.

 

There were 3 different 2.2 engines i believe. Ive seen a write up on these before and they placed them on the outside of block.

 

I saw the outside of the block deal too, but there are a pair that can screw all the way in that have tapered threads...I'd rather have those if I can get them...

 

I hear some of the sensors don't fit exactly and you need to run a rethreading die over it. I don't know what the tread is for the stock

 

Stock thread is 12x1.25 and so are the correct chevy sensors.

 

AFE air filter. After two coupons this filter was only $47!

The way the pre intercooler pipe routes

Here's how the IC sits, nice and snug

The lil oil cooler fits quite nicely behind the Toyo emblem

Honestly with this bumper style you could fit a much longer IC as well as a bit wider.

I ended up with the wrong knock sensors, so instead of aimlessly buying them off Amazon im headed to some auto parts stores to pick them up in person.
Guys I gotta say, I cant wait to see how this thing turns out.

 

I had pictures of me taking the Intake manifold stuff off but they never made it from my phone to my email

 

You know you can upload from your phone..?

 

Yeah, but I usually don't as I can tell what I'm doing better on my computer, plus my computer doesn't have this annoying auto-correct thing. But since you mentioned it, here are those other pictures.





4-bolt welded to the first half of the downpipe. The lil mig did a fantastic job!

Thanks for reminding me @devinzz1 that I can post from my phone lol

I haven't slept much lately...lol