Brice's NA V6 Build

You can also turn auto correct off

 

U stop

lol yeah Ik. I haven't slept much these past days so things that seem obvious to you, probably aren't to my tired brain right now, all the WD40 fumes have killed a few too many brain cells

 

Finally got the correct knock sensors

If you remember these are much smaller than the previous ones.

I also picked this lil guy up for the catch can

 

DAMN, and I thought I had a small IC. I think my trans cooler is bigger

Nice! On your catch can, there are two vents for the PCV system. How it is supposed to work on the stock setup is the blow by exits the PCV valve and fresh air is piped into the crank from the rear vent (connects to the rear resonator box on the stock intake). If you just put a filter on the rear vent, your blow by will go out that vent and you will have to keep your cabin air on recirc so you don't gag on the fumes.

What I did was rout the PCV to the catch can which I vented but some of the blow by fumes still escape because my catch can is shit and doesn't catch much. If you have a shit catch can, consider packing it with stainless steal wool to help precipitate and filter the air.

For the rear vent, I used a filter with an in line check valve to only allow air to flow into the crank. That way, when the engine cools down, the negative pressure doesn't suck in your seals (PCV is a one way check valve that only allows air to exit). I don't remember the size of the hose I used but the rear vent is fairly large, 3/8" at least but I think bigger. Maybe 7/16"?

Don't run that rear valve to your catch can. For some reason that caused my oil pressure to drop way low at idle

 

Thanks man. Couldn't I allow the fresh air to just vent freely without a check valve? And yeah the IC is small lol, I may get a bigger one later when I do the Injectors, AEM Etc..

 

The fumes are bad. You'll have to keep the windows closed and air on recirc to keep from passing out. The check valve is cheap and easy, no reason no too

 

Lemme go get a picture of the engine bay so that way we're on the same page. brb.

 

Is this the fresh air vent?

PCV

The tube from my resonator box is the one directly in front of the camera

 

Thats is. You can see it in the top left of this pic:

 

BTW, add this to your 2buy list:

Toyota PN: PTR26-35041 According to Toyota, the stock gasket will cause a .5-1psi boost depression on the TRD S/C.

Also take your down pipe to an exhaust shop (or do it yourself) to relocate the stock O2 sensor mounting up closer to the Turbo. This guy moves his way close, probably be better to mount it behind the AFR bung, at or just past the curve to make sure the exhaust is measured properly by the sensor. Just make sure the AFR sensor doesnt shadow your O2 sensor too much.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=up2qSlarkFM

 

So what is the breather that comes out of the other valve cover? Also did you move your O2 sensor?

 

The line to the catch can is from the PCV. The vent in the rear driver side of the block (upper left hand corner of my pic) is the rear vent I'm telling you about. I have a breather and a in line check valve so air only goes into the block via that vent and not out. All positive crank pressure blows out of the PCV.

 

alright cool thanks I need all the guidance I can get

 

He moved the one post cat?

EDIT: just read his forum, and he said that earlier Tacomas dont have this issue, it only effects years 2000 with auto trans's and cali Taco's 2001-2004

 

No, he moved the sensor pre cat. The post cat sensor just makes sure your cat is working; for emissions. The pre cat sensor takes a sample to make sure your AFR's are 14.7 and the ECU adjusts fuel base of the inputs. The issue is, if the exhaust isn't hot enough, the sensor sample won't be accurate.

 

Welp I guess we'll see what happens, I installed the chevy SU1075 knock sensors, one was a duralast the other was a Wells, hope it doesn't matter. I also managed to get the Intake manifold fully reassembled. When I was taking everything apart I neglected draining the coolant from the block, doing this not only made a mess but leaked about a table spoon of coolant onto to top of some of my valves. I quickly soaked up the coolant, however it was possible some leaked passed the valves so I sprayed some WD40 into the cylinders to prevent rust. I'm gonna pull all the plugs and the EFI fuse and turn the engine over to rid the cylinders of any coolant, needless to say this things first start up will be smoky. In all honesty I don't think any damage will be done to the engine, and heck if it explodes I'll yank it out and do a semi forged build lol.

 

I know Im late to the the party but just an fyi....its good to replace the knock sensor wire harness as as lot of times it is what fails due to the years of engine heat causing the wires to become brittle and brake

 

Whats the correct part number for the knock sensor?

 

SU1075, Wells or Duralast

 

Added to the one day maybe turbo list...