Brice's NA V6 Build

How vertical is the center cartridge? For oil feed and drain.

 

If it's isolated then it's totally fine and this is the typical solution for pcv. I was just trying to get more input from people whom have been running turbo for a while here on there setups and if any of them had tried anything different. If I can come up with anything legitimate I'll post it here.

 

Maybe 10 degrees off vertical to the left if you're looking at it form the front.

 

Ok, good.

 

Yeah so nothing crazy. It was like 30 off before I cut the flange, which I'm sure was also contributing. Of course if I had a bigger/different turbo I could get it straight up and down...but hey the cheap one hasn't broken yet!

 

How far off is too far?

 

I'd say 30 degrees or more past 180 vertically.

Edit: that wasn't from anything it's just what worked for me.

 

I would have to look at Borg Warner's instructions again, but it gave a specfic number. I don't want to say without checking again. It wasn't much.

 

Is the issue pooling oil or drain restrictions? Or is it a bit of both? Mine is sitting at near 30 degrees but my drain line is a damn near perfect shot to the pan.

 

In my case, with a smallish turbo, pooling is caused by drain issues. Smaller turbos have a smaller drain therefore drain slower, in turn causing your oil to pool. A fix is to get a smaller restrictor or make the center section more upright. Don't worry to much on having a restrictor that's too small, the 5VZ makes tons of oil pressure. I believe it was 4 psi at idle and 75 psi at 3000 rpm, in other words It'll shove enough oil through anything. (obviously it's a good idea to not go smaller than the recommended restrictor size for your turbo)

 

Converted to pre-turbo maf today. @Blackdawg. Overall idle is ok but I still need to move the primary o2 sensor. Before idle was 14.5-16.0 but it is now 14.3-15.5 which is slightly better. Also before the AFR wouldnt drop till boost, now with the MAF being able to intercept and process the air better (atleast thats how I understand it) it begins to get rich as soon as it leaves idle.

New 3" to 4" adapter.

Goodbye nice AFE filter

How it sits on the turbo.

 

Here's a very interesting read about thermal siphoning. TLDR: Water cooled turbo ideal angle is 20 degrees off vertical and the cold water feed needs to be on the lower port of the center housing.

https://turbobygarrett.com/turbobyg...iles/Garrett_White_Paper_01_Water_Cooling.pdf

This leads me to ask, does anyone know which hose from the TB is the cold line? Or is there a safe way to test?

 

Hm good question. I'm only oil cooling atm. Model T's ran exclusively off the siphoning technique.

 

Does your turbo have coolant ports? If so you'll definitely want to set them up.

 

Yeah it does, and eventually I will. Garret will stress the importance of water cooling more so than the engineers to cover their butts if something breaks. Plus I have ceramic bearings which can withstand alot more heat than other types of bearings, so I should be ok for now, that and I have an oil cooler between the block and the turbo.

 

You'll want to do that sooner than later. Its actually pretty easy. On your TB there are coolant lines that are used to heat it up to keep it from icing over in cold weather states. They can be safely removed if you live in Texas (a lot of people do this to keep air intake temps low as these can heat up your intake air), and new water lines re-routed to your turbo instead. I kept the water flowing to the TB but re-routed the water feed to the turbo, and from the turbo to the TB feed, keeping the TB water return lines stock.

The coolant connections are on the block way in the back towards the firewall and are a little difficult to reach.

It does more than just keep the turbo cool. It keeps the oil from baking on the bearings especially when you turn it off after a hard run, with no more oil feed to cool and coat it with fresh oil, the remaining oil coating in the bearing housing can get baked in the bearing housing. It also isolated the heat on the hot side of the turbo from soaking into your intake side. But even with the water lines, always be sure that after driving around a little, let the engine idle a 10-15 seconds before shutting it off to let the turbo cool.

 

Ok cool so just use the throttle body lines. Now it's just a matter of finding hardware

 

@StAndrew Do you happen to know which of the TB lines is the cool line? Don't know if you read through that article I posted but if you have your turbo clocked at the optimal 20 degrees and have you lines backwards your looking at a peak temp difference of almost 100 degrees F in the center housing which is roughly 20% more heat.

Did you also ever figure out why your brake booster wasn't working with the check valve in place? Were you using a true check valve or a pcv valve?

 

I wouldnt worry about dialing in your angle at 8-10psi of boost. On the TB, you can see the two lines going in and coming out pretty easy. I kind of misspoke, its actually your IAC that has the water lines. In the picture below, the j shaped fitting on the top is actually on the bottom when installed and faces your firewall IIRC. The two other fittings splayed out like a "T" are the water lines.



Maybe I had a cheap one way valve but basically it reduced the vacuum the break booster was seeing. I didn't have it in backwards, it just was very restrictive. I'm not saying don't put on in, just beware and test your brakes if you do. Also, as I stated, your brake booster already has a one way valve built in.

 

My brake line was touching the downpipe which caused the fluid to boil and the pedal to become stiff, I believe that same brake line is on all first gen but Idk. Moving that freed everything up.