Brice's NA V6 Build

Go talk to Chris @StAndrew

He can tell you all about what's good and whats shit in that kit.

Quality wastegate is very important and is around 300 and same with BOV.

 

I highly advise against the full kit. Its junk.

Waste gate leaked, vband clamps fell apart and used a nylon lock nut (the nylon melted and the nut was not "locked" for long), IC was ok if you don't mind it being mounted so low (careful offroading), gaskets were all cheap, et

Get the headers and build everything else custom.

-Get quality v-band clamps, I used the Vibrant brand found on Amazon.
-Get a quality waste gate. You can get a nice one for ~$150.
-Intercoolers and piping are pretty straight forward; you can get an ebay kit. Not a whole lot of room for mounting an intercooler so measure and plan ahead before buying.
-Don't use any metal gaskets for the WG or Turbo; they leak. Get some stove top gasket maker for the turbo. Cu based high temp RTV is ok on the waste gate (probably ok for the turbo too, tbh).

 

CXracing IC kit for 95-04 tacos $440
Custom kit (cuts need to be made) $130

CX full turbo kit $1500+$XXX for everything it doesn't include
My custom kit $2700

• Four 90 4AN fittings
• Two 45 10AN fittings
• 10AN drain flange
• 10AN bung to weld into oil pan
• restricted 4AN inlet nozzle (comes with turbo)
• male pipe thread to 3/8ths female thread(to screw into block)
• Male 3/8ths thread to 4AN adapter(to screw into previous)
• X length of 10AN hose
• X length of 4AN hose
• Two 4AN to 6AN adapters (to adapt to a 6AN oil cooler)
• 2x 3inch Vband clamps, as there's suck (potentially haven't tried it yet...Although they gave others lots of trouble)
• 2x 2.5inch Vband clamps (for the crossover)
• CXracing .70AR cold side .63AR hot side turbo (or you could buy a name brand and spend more)(Also be sure to get the ceramic bearings and billet wheel version)
• 2x 2.5inch to 2.75inch silicone adapters(for MAF)
• 3Inch exhaust kit
• flowmaster cat (or equivalent High-flo Cat)
• 3Vband to 4bolt flange adapter (to go from turbo to downpipe)
• Toyota style O2 sensor flange (for stock o2 sensor)
• AFR gauge
• Precision turbo or equivalent wastegate
• BOV optional
• 4 inch air filter
• boost controller
• Oil catch can
• Straight through muffler (chambered designs create to much back pressure and will push spool time up into the RPM range)
• Stovetop gasket maker, or quality gaskests

If over 4-5psi

• AEM FIC6
• Boomslang harness
• Boost controller

Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaannnnnnnd yeah there's the list lol I can link all of that if need be, but I Suggest you go and find the best prices you can. So when you buy there kit you buy, parts you need and a bunch of stuff you don't need such as: crap gaskets, a potentially bad BOV and wastegate along with Vband flanges that won't work for due to the fact they are Nylock nuts (they'll melt) I also exclude possibilities like meth and water cooling the turbo, which can be done, but this is how im choosing to eat this elephant so these are my seasons lol. Again change what is neede to fit your application so that way when other people come along to turbo there 3.4, we can help them iron out any bumps.

 

Couple questions.

What about the stuff that runs off of vacuum after you boost? For example my older truck uses vacuum to engage and disengage the add. if im in 4x4 the add is engaged with vacuum but if i hit boost will it disconnect my add or do something funny like that?

Also i was sizing it up and do you think there would be anything wrong with running the oil drain into lower portion of dipstick tub? I could tig weld it flush so dipstick wouldnt catch.

 

Just plumb the ADD post throttle body and you should be fine...but i would ask @GioGuitarDude to be sure since he is a 4x4. (I'm a PreRunner)
And I'll have to look at the bottom of the dipstick, as you need atleast a 10AN drain sized hole constantly throughout, otherwise oil will pool in the turbo and you'll blow smoke lol. Although now that i think about it, I believe the angle from the turbo to the drain ( in this case the bottom of the dip stick) would be to extreme and cause pooling. From what I understand lowering the diff sucks...In my case this is why you go Turbo then do a 4x4 conversion

 

From what i understand the drain is just gravity fed and amount of oil is limited by the restrictor in feed line so as long as the drain line and fitting is below the turbo it should meet the needs. Yeah im trying to avoid dropping the diff and the rusty bolts on my oil pan look like a nightmare.

 

Again I gotta look and see. Anything 10AN and smaller it is recommended you run a straight 35° angle from drain outlet to the oil pan... (Garret recommends this not me) but hey whatever makes it easy and works! Lemme know if that does work for you though if you decide to go that route.

 

Call CX and ask for Ace. There is another turbo that fits the kit perfect but is smaller than the turbo the kit uses. Its the one I'm running and it still has a bit too much lag. The kit turbo is too big.

Also, I wasn't able to find a 3" 'kit', the best I could find was a 2.5" cat back. You can use an adapter to attach that to your 3" down pipe but if you want to go 3" all the way, you're pretty much stuck getting a custom exhaust.

For muffler I went with the Black Widow Venom series. Straight through and a good sound, even for a V6. Not too much drone or low RPM noise.

I believe I got the 250 series:
http://blackwidowexhaust.com/shop#!...ter-–-SKU-BW0003/p/57752195/category=15730041

 

Sound clip?

 

Correction to my last, this is the venom 300 series, 3" straight through. If the drone is too much (my tires are louder than my exhaust) you can put a resonator on there too.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uP1hFZHyFyY

 

I spec'd out a garret turbo using a flow chart. Was a 2570 I think. 55mm inducer and 70mm exducer with a .60 A/R

Would have spooled up to 14psi at 2200rpm.

But what do I know..nobody listens to me and buys big turbos for our trucks with limited rpm range..

 

Dang man that sounds really nice actually...might change my muffler selection over to that...

Here's what my truck sounds like NA
https://youtu.be/cADIRlQYuek
And the turbo I chose is .70AR cold .63 hot. I heard it's supposed to spool at around 2500 completely, which will be great since I can get on the freeway and stay off boost.

 

I would love to get that turbo. Just no funds yet.

I don't recommend the CX turbo. But I don't not recommend it

 

What's with all the smoke(?)?

 

Steam

 

^

 

Hey guys I got me a question...
My truck has started squatting relatively low as of recent ( or its been getting lower and is now noticeable). My question is, is, Are my leaf springs on there way out? I was considering buying a leveling kit to stance the truck a bit better when noticed it leveled itself lmao...

I'll post some pics when I get home.

 

Hey man could you link me your build? I'm on my phone right now and for some reason people's signatures don't pop up.

 

I know you don't approve of the CX turbo, but Is a .63 hot .70 cold a good choice? I believe the inducer is 53mm

 

It's a t4 flange though. Boost will start around 2800-2900. Far too late imo considering our stock torque curve peaks at a mere 2100rpm.

I also believe the hot side exducer on the cx turbo is way to big from what I remember.