Brice's NA V6 Build

Heck I have no clue how to read that...lol all I know is that my cold AR is .70 and my hot is .63, which are both probably to big... Its a GT3071

 

It takes a bit of time to get used to reading it. Go check out garrett website. They have a great write up to get you started. Don't look at AR on the compressor side really. AR on the turbine is associated with transient response with the cost of efficiency. 0.63 on a T3 flange is pretty darn fast spooling on your motor. That is what I have on a 2.4L motor. You would want to stay under 15 psi unless you are running meth or e85. Depending on your wastegate control it might peak at midrange and start to fall off in power towards redline.

 

Subbed

 

Billet Whee Ball Bearing GT30 GT3071R l Turbo Charger

Stage III Ceramic Ball Bearing on Compressor Side
.70 A/R Compressor Housing
.82 A/R Turbine Housing For Super Fast Spool 1.8L-3.0L Motors
T3 Flange to Manifold
3" V-Band Downpipe Flange
4" Air Inlet and 2.5" Turbo Outlet
Works for Many Bigger HP Applications, 400-600 HP
Light Weight Billet Wheel
High Quality Built product. Each Turbo is Individually Tested and Computer Balanced.
BRAND NEW, not used, not remanufactured.

Item(s) Specification :
- 4" Air Inlet
- 2.5" Compressed Air Outlet
- Ceramic Ball Bearing on Compressor Side Compressor
- Standard T3 Turbine Housing Flange
- 3" V-Band Exhaust Outlet
- 400-600 HP
- Oil Cooled
- Working Pressure: 8-30 PSI
- 0.70 A/R Compressor
- 0.82 A/R Turbine
- Compressor Wheel (Major/Exducer): 71/53mm
- Turbine Wheel (Major/Inducer): 68/62.3mm

This is my actual spec'd turbo. I've learned it's not always the housing size. The wheels inside can be different as well. Lighter wheels inside reduces the rotational weight and can create faster spool. And a T3 forces exhaust gas up quicker because it is smaller than the T4. Not sure on your exact specs but if you got a GT30 I believe you did good. These aren't drag cars. You'll get good boost regardless. I like the availability to tune your boost up higher in the future too if needed especially if you build the internals up a bit. I'm talking to like 20-24psi. Even 10-12psi is pretty damn good. For a V6 this is a good turbo regardless of spool rpm. A V6 will have more gas flow regardless.

Also good decision on the precision wg. Thing will last and the internals of that wg will hold up to high temps of living right inside your headers. I tried a $40 one off ebay and it didn't work. I think it was defective from the get go. Must've been a return they resold. A wg however has a special rubber coated float seal inside of it that flexes up and down on a rod. A good ebay one will probably work, but I've become a believer in the importance of this component being top notch. The machining on the more inexpensive wg's is just not there yet.

What else do you need still to get her ripped apart?

 

Looks like a damn calculus problem to me. F that shit! Good stuff though.

 

I'll have to go check it out, Ive heard people talkin about that page.

 

Billet Wheel Ball Bearing GT30 GT3071R Turbo Charger

Stage III Ceramic Ball Bearing on Compressor Side
.70 A/R Compressor Housing
.63 A/R Turbine Housing For Super Fast Spool 1.8L-3.0L Motors T3 Flange to Manifold
3" 4 Bolts Downpipe Flange
4" Air Inlet and 2.5" Turbo Outlet
Works for Many Bigger HP Applications, 400-600 HP
Light Weight Billet Wheel Offers Excellent Performance
Professional Installer Is Highly Recommend
High Quality Built product. Each Turbo is Individually Tested and Computer Balanced. BRAND NEW, not used, not remanufactured.

Item(s) Specification :
- 4" Air Inlet
- 2.5" Compressed Air Outlet
- Bearing Ceramic Ball Bearing on Compressor Side Compressor
- Standard T3 Turbine Housing Flange
- 3" 4 bolts Exhaust Outlet
- 400-600 HP
- Oil Cooled
- Working Pressure: 8-30 PSI
- 0.70 A/R Compressor
- 0.63 A/R Turbine
- Compressor Wheel (Major/Exducer): 71/53mm
- Turbine Wheel (Major/Inducer): 68/62.3mm
same just .63 AR ^^^^

I don't need anything else right now for a 5-6psi build. actually just ordered the last of the parts, to get er' goin, last night.

What I still need/ will need

• AEM fic6(long term item)
• Muffler(long term item)
• FMU(short term item)
• Larger injectors (long term item) maybe supra 318cc's?
• methanol (maybe????)

 

Whats the difference from that turbo and the one I have on my list...

CXRacing Ball Bearing GT30 GT3076R Billet Wheel Turbo Charger
Stage III Ceramic Ball Bearing on Compressor Side
0.70 A/R Compressor Housing with Anti-Surge Inlet
T3 0.63 A/R Turbine Housing
3" 4 Dolt Downpipe Flange
4" Air Inlet and 2.5" Turbo Outlet
Light Weight Billet Wheel Offers Excellent Performance
High Quality Built product. Each Turbo is individually tested and computer balanced.
BRAND NEW, not used, not remanufactured.

Item(s) Specification :
- 4" Air Inlet
- 2.5" Compressed Air Outlet
- Ceramic Ball Bearing on Compressor Side Compressor
- Standard T3 Turbine Housing Flange
- 4 bolt 3" Exhaust Outlet
- 400-600 HP
- Oil /Water Cooled
- 8-30 PSI Working Pressure
- 0.70 A/R Compressor
- 0.63 A/R Turbine - Compressor Wheel (Major/Exducer) 76.6/58mm
- Turbine Wheel (Major/Inducer) 60/55mm
- Works for Many Bigger HP Applications


And whats a fmu?

 

A fuel management unit. In this case a rising rate fuel pressure regulator to add fuel pressure for every pound of boost at a ratio. I think I'd go with a 8:1 or a 12:1

a company named vortech makes them

And the one I listed has a smaller compressor wheel

 

Finally replaced my left rear bumper cap...




@navevang for this thing! Thanks man!

 

No need for an fpr on our trucks.

 

Without an AEM and over 6psi you need something, a fpr or some fueling equivalent is needed. The stock fpr can only compensate so much

 

Fairly certain the fpr on our trucks is the one used in the Supra. Will handle a lot of fuel. No need to change. The fuel pump needs upgraded. Really no way to safely add more fuel without injectors and tuning the ecu imo unless it's methanol.

 

Idk man. Guys have taken stock injectors to 300hp with an fpr because the stock one only lasts them til 6 or so psi...Not saying that what you're saying isn't true (lol) I just haven't tested it personally so I wouldn't Know... (not that 300hp on stock injs is safe AT ALL)

 

How would you tune that?

 

I mean you don't necessarily need to tune a turbo build. I can find the thread Im talkin about later as im about to leave, but he had an fpr, bigger fuel pump and an afcr??? idk how to say it, and he make like 350whp and 4xx somethin wtq w

I'll be back on later, peace.

P.S. the afcr or whatever, was used to tune it it, but not a lot, as an AEM would be capable of.

 

I was just curious, I'm not an expert either. Always willing to learn new stuff.

 

Idk about a new fpr. Without anyway of tuning it your probably just ending up running way rich I would think. Yeah you don't "need" to tune a turbo if you just shove a bunch a fuel in it. But then your just wasting fuel....

And isn't there turbo guys going over 6psi on here with the stock fpr and no piggyback or standalone?

I think staying at 6psi tell you can get Arm would be the easiest and best option. But this new fpr does have me curious. Im just not sure about putting something on there you can't really tune in to get it right....idk

 

Not a new fpr just one that works in tandem with the current one. And I havent seen build with over 6psi with nothing else...If so they definitely run lean. Plus with a proper fpr ratio (1:1, 2:1, 3:1 ect...) you can easily see AFR's in the mid 11's on full boost. not saying its the best long term solution, but they do make good power.

 

If you put another FPR inline, the one with the lowest pressure will always limit the fuel. If you want to use a rising rate(manifold pressure) FPR then you'll need to bypass the OEM one. There is also the issue of whether or not the OEM ECU can control the timing enough. Find a competent dyno shop in your city and make sure you do some logs to figure out a starting point, they could also give some tips....colder plugs, piggy back ECU's.....