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Brice's NA V6 Build

Discussion in '1st Gen. Builds (1995-2004)' started by Brice, Jun 19, 2016.

  1. Jul 15, 2016 at 9:28 PM
    #161
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg Dr. Frankenstein

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    Th FPR does NOT need replaced. It's the same on as used on a 2jzgte and 1jz and 7mgte. It's good for 400hp.

    Also. I want to clarify. Psi doesnt mean dick. 6psi out if turbo X is not the same as 6psi out if turbo Y. psi is for meassuring preassure, duh, but does not measure air flow. That's why cars with 70-74mm compressors at 6psi make more power then a turbo at 14psi that's got a 40mm compressor. The larger compressor flows more air and a lower preassure. It's about volume.
     
  2. Jul 15, 2016 at 9:38 PM
    #162
    StAndrew

    StAndrew Wait for it...

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    Intake, exhaust, lift. Typical stuff.
    Its also about heat. Larger turbos generally create more efficient boost. XX PSI from a smaller turbo compared to a large generally doesn't produce as much power as more of the boost from the smaller turbo is built by heat generated rather than volume moved. This is why the TRD S/C is pretty much pegged at ~9psi. It can make more if you want it to but you are approaching the limits of diminishing returns. By 10-12psi, boost is made more by the temp increase than by air flow.

    +1 on the stock FPR. Plenty good for a stock block engine.
     
    Silver02Taco likes this.
  3. Jul 15, 2016 at 9:47 PM
    #163
    boostedka

    boostedka Well-Known Member

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    This may be comparing apples to oranges so take it FWIW, but in my experience with my recently completed turbo 3RZ I'm running the stock ECU and stock FPR with pink top injectors (10% more flow than the browns I had) and a Walbro 190 pump at 7-8psi on a 55mm Precision turbo. FPR is hooked up the one of the ports on top of the throttle body so that it does not see vacuum, only boost. I seem to have plenty of fuel as my AFR's get down to 10.8 at full boost and WOT. IDK if this is the same FPR as is used on the 5VZ or not though. Also, I built a turbo'd 240sx back in the day and used a Bell Engineering rising rate FMU with stock injectors and a Walbro 255 pump in conjunction with the stock FPR. It got the job and I pushed the stock injectors farther that most did at the time, but it also ran pig rich and wasted a lot of fuel as someone else mentioned already. FMU's are a very crude way of "tuning" a turbo set up and, from what I came across in my research, not necessary on 1st gen Tacoma turbo set ups.
     
  4. Jul 15, 2016 at 10:28 PM
    #164
    Raincity

    Raincity Half man, half amazing.

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    Different combinations can work, it just takes some leg work to figure it all out. It honestly depends on how much money you want to invest and qwerks/reduced drivability your willing to live with. In the ideal world we would all love to have custom tuned stand alones!
     
    MadTaco461 likes this.
  5. Jul 16, 2016 at 8:11 AM
    #165
    MadTaco461

    MadTaco461 BRO runner

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    Mmm haltech 1000 one day maybe... Stupid glitchy stock ecu trying to lean out during spool up.
     
    Brice[OP] likes this.
  6. Jul 16, 2016 at 9:24 AM
    #166
    Brice

    Brice [OP] Turbo Member

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    Well then I guess I'll change my plan a bit...:D Thank you all for this input!

    I think I'll try supra Injectors (or something bigger than stock)and a bigger fuel pump and see what that bring me before I fork over the cash for a harness and AEM
     
  7. Jul 16, 2016 at 10:27 AM
    #167
    j0shu4

    j0shu4 98 TRD 4x4, 3.4 Turbo, Full LT, Fully Locked

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    The best you can get is the AEM infinity. Standalone. But it's like 2k. With that you can tune the absolute LIMIT out of our engine. I would like to get mine on this eventually and sell my FIC6. But it's also almost twice as much as the fic and harness. With that you can run 11.5afr all day on any psi and rpm. There will be no conflict with the OEM ecu.
     
    tony2018 likes this.
  8. Jul 16, 2016 at 10:29 AM
    #168
    Brice

    Brice [OP] Turbo Member

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    But at that point 2k and a stand alone isnt really worth 350-400hp in my opinion...better make it fully forged for powers sake! :D:D:D:D
     
    Raincity likes this.
  9. Jul 16, 2016 at 10:31 AM
    #169
    j0shu4

    j0shu4 98 TRD 4x4, 3.4 Turbo, Full LT, Fully Locked

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    How about fully forged WITH that.......
     
  10. Jul 16, 2016 at 10:33 AM
    #170
    Brice

    Brice [OP] Turbo Member

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    Haha thats what I meant
     
  11. Jul 16, 2016 at 11:18 AM
    #171
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg Dr. Frankenstein

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    LCE will build a fully forged long block and heads for..12k.

    Start saving.
     
  12. Jul 16, 2016 at 11:21 AM
    #172
    Brice

    Brice [OP] Turbo Member

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    lol maybe some day...
     
  13. Jul 16, 2016 at 11:48 AM
    #173
    Raincity

    Raincity Half man, half amazing.

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    There are a good bunch of good stand alone units but the best is the one that has someone locally that can tune it and understands the software. The most expensive car in the hands of a terrible driver will have terrible results. And if your dropping 2K into a full stand alone management, be prepared for dyno time and a programmer costs. Not worth it IMO for a street truck, unless of course there is no budget.
     
  14. Jul 16, 2016 at 2:27 PM
    #174
    Brice

    Brice [OP] Turbo Member

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    Got me some parts, high flow cat for the fastest meow's, a 4 bolt flange for adapting the down pipe and an o2 bung for the post cat o2 sensor. (gotta read all those meows to get the best AFR's). Oh and a vibrant performance 3 inch V-band
    IMG_20160716_143033109 (1).jpg
     
    j0shu4 likes this.
  15. Aug 10, 2016 at 12:03 AM
    #175
    Brice

    Brice [OP] Turbo Member

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    Alright. Lil update. :D

    Removed my stock air box and intake.
    IMG_20160809_192014712.jpg
    Nice view of what i got myself into...
    IMG_20160809_192020758.jpg\
    managed to get the crossover junction cut(as well as some of my brake bracket... :D lol) and unbolted on the driver's side,
    IMG_20160809_192031730.jpg
    more to come tomorrow when I get the manifolds off. These bolts are EXTREMELY tight... My breaker bar is about 3 ft long too lol.
    anyway should have some mock up pics of the fancy CX manifolds tomorrow.

    In other news.

    All (most) of this will be on YouTube! So those of you who wanna follow along can use this forum and my videos to do so! I should, maybe have a video up tomorrow.

    Goodnight :D.
     
    boostedka likes this.
  16. Aug 10, 2016 at 12:16 AM
    #176
    LogCabins

    LogCabins Well-Known Member

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    What you gonna do with the air box/intake
     
  17. Aug 10, 2016 at 12:18 AM
    #177
    Brice

    Brice [OP] Turbo Member

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    Well I'm so far into this money wise, I'll probably sell it.

    It has a new-ish washable K&N air filter and the deckplate mod, I have the deckplate cap.

    The intake tube ripped at one point and was repaired with silicone, and the little box-silencer deally that sits on the side is in good condition.
     
  18. Aug 10, 2016 at 12:22 AM
    #178
    LogCabins

    LogCabins Well-Known Member

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    Let me dig thru my attic, to double check I indeed thru mine out for some dumbass reason....if I did I may hit you up....but definitely don't hold onto it for me...I'm sure if you post that thing on 1st gen parts for sale it will be gone pretty quick!!! And thanks for getting back to me so quick
     
  19. Aug 10, 2016 at 12:26 AM
    #179
    Brice

    Brice [OP] Turbo Member

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    No prob man. I'll wait a day or two for yah since I don't need to sell it. Then I'll post it there :D
     
    LogCabins[QUOTED] likes this.
  20. Aug 12, 2016 at 1:06 PM
    #180
    Brice

    Brice [OP] Turbo Member

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    @GioGuitarDude Hey did you have to take off any exhaust manifold studs to get the new manifolds on?

    Oh and to everyone, the youtube videos will be delayed, but I should have one out today :D
     
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