Brice's NA V6 Build

We would have to buy over 10 to get into the $450 range

 

oh I had found them for $695 I thought and when he said save $195 I just thought it might be off that but I would be interested in a "group buy" too if/when yall get ready if its gonna be feasible for whoever orders them to ship me one

 

I edited that last post btw, we would have to buy over 10 to get into the $450 range

And yeah I'd be down for a group buy, Obviously everyone pays their own shipping from whoever orders them right?

 

oh yeah for sure but I would think s&H wouldn't be but maybe $10 and if you are saving over $100 per unit that's a no brainer. I dunno how much of a headache it would be but it might behoove us to make a group buy thread over in the performance section and see if you can get 10 to order, and just have everyone paypal unit cost+say $10/$15 to cover s&H to the person ordering

 

F/IC 6 is super easy to tune and handles closed loop boost perfectly. I tuned it on the street in a day, once I was confortable with tuning. I tuned open loop at the race track within about 6 or 7 runs. I also did not use a harness, I wired it directly in which was also easy if you can read a wiring diagram. Look into the differences between AEM and MAP3. AEM actually intercepts the injector signals. AEM also has provisions for meth, nitrous on a window control, or any other thing that needs to be controlled. Also the AEM has so much more documentation across the web and youtube.

Once I go 0 vacuum, regardless of closed loop or open loop, my AFRs go to 13.5, 1psi goes to 13, 2psi goes to 12.5, 5psi goes to 12, and everthing else until 9psi goes to 10.5. Short term and long term fuel trims in closed loop boost are about 4% throughout RPM range. I am not pulling even a single degree of timing anywhere in the map.

While I randomly saying things, I'm still using stock fuel pump on 9psi.

 

Well if you could explain more on the wiring of the AEM then I'd be pretty interested since the AEM is only $430 Did you have to use new wires to make the connections or was there enough on the OEM harness?

 

Oh and an update on my o2 (AFR) sensor situation. The new bosch unit worked perfectly and idle is back to "Normal"

 

I have a whole cheat sheet already made for us wideband guys The AEM will come with like 3' of "flying lead" harness which is WAY more wire than you'll need to make the connections and be able to tuck it out of the way It also comes with a bypass harness so that if you want to go back to stock ECU, just plug it in your AEM and you have stock ECU.

I'm assuming you've seen this thread: AEM is only $370 on ebay

 

Tbh I was really interested in the occasional 2 step from the mapecu, can the AEM do that? And nope never seen the thread but I have now! lol

 

You can use use the dual map switch feature of the AEM for antilag. Just write the "B" map to pull a ton of timing in the low RPMs. Not sure about 2 step. With your stock stall converter you won't be able to use it anyway since converter will only flash 2,500 or so. Unless you're wanting to 2 step in park just for show.

 

well if it wont 2 step will it atleast do-si-do?

 

Just for show lol

 

Sorry I do not know why but I do NOT get email alerts for new replies. I've sent an email to the mods, but no reply.

The original location for the crankcase air intake was pre throttle body. Meaning the intake tube has almost to vacuum since vacuum is made after the throttle body blades. Therefore it is not a vacuum leak. It's more or less just filtered air. The crankcase vent has extremely small amounts of negative pressure on it at idle. Long term fuel trims are totally unchanged after unhooking that line from the intake tract, which say that it is not creating a vacuum leak since even the smallest vacuum leaks will make a very noticeable change in LTFT. Also the fact I tune my own stuff and closely monitor is and no problems with the PCV system in this configuation (still with no catch can) and zero problems or caveats to report.

 

The AEM based off the 4runner thread seem to be very easy to wire up. Are 4runner and Tacoma ECU's the same? say a 99 and a 99?

 

I hesitate to say they're identical, but they're damn close. Toyota is known to change wire colors even midyear. You'll want to verify it all against a good EWD, which you can obtain from here https://techinfo.snapon.com/TIS/Register.aspx for $15 for a 2 day pass. The AEM comes with a bunch of wires that look pretty intimidating, but you literally remove more than half of them after you're done wiring it. Since it's a "universal" it comes with provisions for lots of diffent setups (mag/hall crank, dual cam sensors, vtec, etc etc you won't use)

 

Hmm

 

@vasinvictor The map3 also says it has an EBC. Do you think the fic6 is a better option, or just better for the price?

Also, does anyone know where to find the harness that you have to wire yourself? Just looked at boomslangs site and they want $500 for a fic6 harness so f that. Think there's one that's unwired for like $200? Already mangled my wires enough with the install and removal of the URD 7th. Don't want to do that again.

Also, also, what injectors and pump are recommended? Looking for 10-15 psi.

 

255lph minimum. They have graphs for the hp they will support with the referenced with pressure changes.

www.rceng.com has an injector size calculator. Type in the numbers and hp goals, and you'll see the size injectors needed.

 

Did you see my fuel pump write up? That's seems to be a good pump so far but a walbro 255lph is another good one. Although I hear it's harder to install

 

The fic boomslang harness is the only full harness I know of for 1st gens, urd sells one for the map ecu that's blank that you wire into yourself, that's $190.

AEM+harness=$870 ATLEAST
Map ecu+blank harness=$700 (with group buy)