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Bridging 2 channel amp with components

Discussion in 'Audio & Video' started by Ronn, Feb 1, 2012.

  1. Feb 1, 2012 at 8:10 PM
    #1
    Ronn

    Ronn [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Northern Ontario
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    2007 DCLB 4x4 SR5
    Westin bullbar, KC slimlites, Mini D2S headlight retrofit, 5100 front @ 1.75 and 5100 rear, Wheelers HD leaf pack
    First let me start by saying I have a little bit of experience with car audio but I am by no means an expert. Just on here trying to learn a little bit:)

    A couple people knew I really wanted to upgrade my stereo in the truck so I was surprised over the holidays with a couple xmas/bday gifts which include:

    Alpine CDA-117 and Alpine Type R 6.5 inch components

    I had a couple amps collecting dust downstairs, an alpine MRP-M350 along with a Pioneer GM-X362.
    As I am on a limited budget I decided to use the Pioneer and spend my extra cash on deadening products from SDS instead of buying a more powerful one.

    Here are the amps specs:


    Features
    • PWM Regulated MOSFET Power Supply
    • Bridgeable 1/2/3 Channel Capability
    • Balanced Isolator Input Circuit
    • Screw-Type Power/Ground Terminals
    • Screw-Type Speaker Terminals
    • RCA Inputs
    • Hi-Volt Input Level Control (400mV-6.5V)
    • Speaker Level Inputs
    • Selectable Crossover: 80Hz, -12dB/oct. (LPF)
    Specifications
    • Continuous Power (14.4V): 40Wx2(4 ohm), 50Wx2 (2 ohm), 100Wx1 (4 ohm)
    • Max Power (14.4V): 80Wx2 (4 ohm), 200Wx1 (4 ohm)
    • Frequency Response: 10Hz - 50kHz (0,-1dB)
    • Total Harmonic Distortion: 0.008% (1kHz, 4W)
    • Signal-to-Noise Ratio: 100dB (IHF-A)
    • Dimensions: 11" x 2-5/16" x 6-3/16"
    Not the greatest I know, considering the Type R's are rated for 110w rms. The amp is bridgeable and 2 ohm stable but only gets a bump of an extra 10 watts. I've heard sound quality is reduced when lowering impedance so is it worth it to bridge it down? Or should I leave it as is running at 4 ohms? The speakers do sound great btw:D
     
  2. Feb 1, 2012 at 9:18 PM
    #2
    mattg43

    mattg43 Well-Known Member

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    SwingCase, driver side. PVC Bike rack. Aftermarket stereo.
    You can only bridge a 2 channel down to 1 channel. So you could theoretically hook them up to a single, bridged channel. You would lose stereo, and no, its not worth it.

    Run them at 40w, install the deadener, seal up your doors, and enjoy!
     
  3. Feb 1, 2012 at 9:43 PM
    #3
    Ronn

    Ronn [OP] Well-Known Member

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    2007 DCLB 4x4 SR5
    Westin bullbar, KC slimlites, Mini D2S headlight retrofit, 5100 front @ 1.75 and 5100 rear, Wheelers HD leaf pack
    Yeah definetely not worth it. Maybe something like this with a little more head room http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_22733_Kenwood-KAC-7205.html I originally wanted 100x2 but 170 is fine.

    I did seal up the doors, ended up using CLD tiles on the inner and outer skin, plexiglass, silicone and self tappers. It worked out very well, great midbass and the speakers sound tight even at higher volumes.
     
  4. Feb 1, 2012 at 10:09 PM
    #4
    Tvtech

    Tvtech i void warranties

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    Run it 40x2........ .008 THD is great
    If you feel you need more power down the road upgrade then.
     
  5. Feb 2, 2012 at 12:12 AM
    #5
    DevL

    DevL Well-Known Member

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    So you want to kill your stereo and go mono? Because your speakers determine 4 or 2 Ohms... not the amp. Also that amp is not stable a 2 Ohms bridged. Seems like you dont really have a choice unless you are considering getting speakers with a different impedance... or you have 2 of these amps... then you can only bridge them if your speakers are 4 Ohms since its not 2 Ohm stable when bridged.
     
  6. Feb 2, 2012 at 4:31 AM
    #6
    Ronn

    Ronn [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
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    208
    Gender:
    Male
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    Ron
    Northern Ontario
    Vehicle:
    2007 DCLB 4x4 SR5
    Westin bullbar, KC slimlites, Mini D2S headlight retrofit, 5100 front @ 1.75 and 5100 rear, Wheelers HD leaf pack
    Thanks for the responses guys I will stay at 40x2.
     
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