---BRO-COMA--- 3rd Gen. Build - 30% Bro, 60% Build and 25% BS

Also, I got most of the pieces to complete the wiring for the ARB and Light Bar that I need to get still. I hate wires, I still need to locate that hipster.

I should of done some more research, now I see there is quite a bit of these parts available from venders on TW.

Plan is to make an aluminum plate to mount everything to. Plate will be mounted to the top of the factory fuse panel.

3 Switch Panel from @forty2 and Shapeways $35
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...ng-i-wanted-didnt-exist.415922/#post-11797213

Switches CH4x4 ~$60
http://www.ch4x4.com/

100amp Bussmann Breaker $30

$48 Bussmann (BP/CB185-100) 100 Amp Circuit Breaker

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001PYK5JQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Prewired Waterproof Bussmann Relay/ Fuse Panel w/ bracket Amazon $134

Concours Specialties Universal Waterproof Fuse Relay Box Panel Cooper Bussmann ATV UTV RV Boat 4X4

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FWILL20/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Wago Wire Terminators, Not sure if I'll use them. $35

$42 Wago (25) 222-412 (25) 222-413 (20) 222-415 Lever-Nut Assortment Pack

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00U4520JK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1





Most un-bro switches known to man Toyota switches are kind of lame they are only 3amp rated, must run relay.

 

We gotta get you some real switches. They're out there somewhere.

 

Those are legit AF, what was I thinking

 

​

 

Oddly I came across my front Driveshaft so I figured I should probably put it back where it goes.

Perfect fit with the notched and plated crossmember.

Odd that it is made by Spicer and not Toyota?






So, I've got a little spending money now, and I feel a little bad about it, so here goes the story. So I'm supposed to clean horse stalls for my aunt to pay for my room and board. Only problem, I don't like horses, and I refuse to get my Converse or Rainbow flippy floppies covered in Horse shit. So, of course my aunt starts nagging me about what I'm going to do to make up for not doing any chores, or paying any rent. Then it hit me, I have the old E-Rated 295 Kbro2's and her truck could use some new tires. There's two things I feel a little bad about. One, I told her I spent $2,000 on them and she ended up giving me $1000 and took $1000 off for rent. Second thing I feel a little bad about...

I had them put white walls out

 

@Diablo169 you, sir, are a legend

 

In my own mind

 

Reading through this thread has made my night hahaha

 

Happy Memorial Day everyone. I try to avoid doing anything on holiday weekends, because traffic in the Bay in unreal. And seeing that the Rubicon is closed and underwater, and Fordyce is under snow, I decided to get some wiring stuff started. Still having a hard time locating a wire guru.

Also, I still have the $1,000 burning a hole is my pocket, and since paying down debt is super lame, I decided to buy a Light Bar instead Seemed like a good idea.

Wiring Photo dump time.

Mounting the Relay/ Fuse pack. I left room so that I could mount a second Bussmann pack and a second Breaker in case I go crazy with Light Bars.

Rectangles are hard bro, there's so many angles, I never even took Algebra. Only Aircraft Aluminum would work. Strength and light weight FTW. To the leftis the Fuse Box Lid.


Harbor Freight Metal Shears. The Chinese really know how to make things, Toyota should move production.


Cleaned up the edges with a flap disc, and then added a nice brushed look, with a Finish Sander mounted with a Scotch Bright Pad.


Fitted it to the Fuse Box Lid. and Bolted it on with some Neoprene Sealing Washers and some 1/2" x 1/4" Spacers.


100% of the time I use Grade 8 hardware 70% of the time.


Fits good I have about 2" clearance from the hood (Probably should of checked that first )


I started on the inside, but I'll up date that later. It takes longer updating this thread than it does working on this thing

 

nice

 

I'm pretty over wiring, but another wiring project showed up. I took advantage of the memorial day sales and picked up the RoughCountry bumper light bar kit. Nothing is more bro than Rough Country and Light Bars, execpt for maybe maybe Luke Bryan.

Bar had good reviews, and was pretty cheap. I'll have to heavily study the instructions, looks like a lot of work pulling the bumper and grill and stuff.

Bar has a sweet cover, and the wire harness looks pretty well put together.




This is what winning looks like...

 

Nice, I like the single row down there. Going to be legit.

 

Do you think that would look like winning on a Bro-Tundra? I might go for something similar.

 

The more light bers the more winninger
!

 

@fordfascist came over today, pretty much drank all my Frosties, and also helped get the in cab wiring wrapped up. I didn't get a lot of pics mainly because it got dark. Under hood wiring is a mess, still need to sort that out.

No bitch crimp connections here, the're soldered AF!



I decided the cleanest way to hook up power and be able to return to stock was to use a fuse tap off of key circuits. I could of researched how others did it, but I already had it in my head how I wanted to do it.

For Switch Back Lighting I tapped into the Taillight circuit and added a 7.5amp micro fuse. And for switched power I tapped into the P/Outlet 2 circuit with a 15amp micro fuse. They fit perfectly next to each other, tight though because of the orientation they have to be inserted. If they didn't fit there was a couple of other circuits I could of used.



We lubed up the wire loom and pulled it through the grommet where the Hood Release goes through the firewall. We used a zip tie to fish the wires from the engine side.



Switches are a little bright compared to the dash lights. I don't think they can be dimmed because they are LED's, so I might have to look into it.

 

The LEDs are too bright at night on my seat cooler switches too. The struggle is real.

 

Depending on how they made the switch you could place a resistor in series to reduce the voltage applied to the LED. The switches I've used have different prongs for the switch input power and the LED indicators.

 

That'll put baldy back in step...sub'd

 

I thought Bro, I even went as far as moving out. Unfortunately now I'm at my aunts, baldy's sister, and he still nags about me not paying her rent or helping clean horse stalls and stuff. It's been rough. Taking him to small claims court didn't work out too well, so now I might look into getting a restraining order.

He's remodeling one of the bathrooms, and I know that grumpy bastard didn't pull any permits, so maybe I'll call the county on him, see how he does dealing with a city inspector.

 

Going to have to deduct bro points if you didnt get he RC decal with the light bar kit