Broke the Tacoma today...

Debate about spacers aside, I'm curious to see the fix and all that is involved.

Obviously both struts. If keeping it, I would replace coils with OME 885 springs (assuming 2nd gen DCSB) to maintain height.

My guess is that the alignment cams are likely seized and will need to be cut in order to lower the LCA. Looked like the UBJ boot was torn in one of the pics too.

I'd just go ahead and replace the whole CV. RockAuto has the Cardone for $35 with lifetime warranty (same CV that Napa sells for ~$100) or the HD version for $70. There is also a 5% TW discount code. The reboot kit for the CVs is about $35.

 

Seized Alignment cams? That escalated quickly. How bout some pb blaster and a breaker bar. Id never cut them since they are galvanized to reduce corrosion. On two of my Tacomas the aligment cams loosened up easily with one Truck at 230k miles and the other a rusty 185k miles. The lower control arm bolts are removed using air impact and they came right off. Everything torqued back together easily and accurately. This is a very simple job if you use a jack.

 

Believe it or not it does happen.

 

Seized alignment cams is a very common problem. Just had to cut mine off a few weeks ago. Soaked in pb blaster for a week, wouldnt budge. Had to replace all hardware at that point. We tried ball joint press with a big ole impact to get them out and one of em still didnt budge. Cut er right off with a Diablo sawzall blade. Not that big of a deal just kinda a pain.

 

Same here. Did my lift at 88k and i had to cut off every single cam bolt and two of the washers required an air chisel to remove from the frame.

 

Yep. Ask me how I know.

Thanks for the support, guys. My truck was bought in Texas and I had to replace the alignment cams on the passenger side due to them seizing in place. I needed to get the LCA off so that I could replace the LBJ. Ended up replacing the entire LCA.

It's actually really common on these trucks. Judging by the amount of corrosion on the rest of his truck, I wouldn't be surprised if it is the case for him. Just for clarification, I am not trying to scare the OP at all. Just informing him of other possibilities to be prepared to encounter. One of those "if you know about it in advance, you won't spend hours trying to figure it out" scenarios. Also, FWIW, I am not talking about the bolt that runs through the cam. I'm talking about the cam itself. Somebody, I think either Moog or SPC, makes an aftermarket replacement kit that is not terribly expensive; but I would recommend OEM all day.

 

I bought mine in Killeen, Texas, but the first 4-6 years of it's life were in Vermont. You (OP) should check it's service history to see if it was a northern truck.

Edit: i have Moog lowers and hardware. They're alright, but they don't stay in alignment like the stock hardware, IME.

 

I would also recommend OEM alignment hardware. I've heard some not so great things about the moog hardware. I wouldn't hesitate to use the moog LCAs though if OP needs to replace them, they seem like a good alternative. I didnt go that route but wish I did. I ended up having to press new (moog) LBJs into the OEM LCAs that I got. Would've been easier to just get the moog LCAs that come with the ball joints in there already

 

I went Duralast/Dorman based on cost and availability for my LCAs. They have a lifetime warranty, but I'm not sure it was the best decision. I have a metal on metal clunk sound that I'm 90% sure is the left LCA. I need to call AutoZone and have them order me a replacement so that I can see if that is the problem.

Edit: If I could do it again, I'd just replace the LBJ and bushings on the OEM LCAs. I'd probably go with the Duralast LBJ since it is grease-able w/ zerk and Energy Suspension black bushings. Only because the OEM replacements are pricey. Oh, and the LBJ and circlip on the Dorman LCA is already pretty rusted after only about 20k mi.

 

I'm REALLY glad my truck still has the stock suspension setup.

 

and now for your viewing pleasure a Chitkn dancing

 

Not sure I follow this.
You can't gain more down travel with a spacer. Down travel is limited by the factory LCA/UCA. If you add a spacer to the bump stop, you are losing up travel. So, with a spacer lift which has a spacer on the bump you will lose travel.

 

Enough about the spacers.

Did the OP retrieve his truck? What was the outcome?

 

your spring perch broke apart cause its a Toyota, nothing to do with the spacer lift.

 

Rust cancer strikes again. Sorry OP.

 

^ I cringed when he posted those pictures of his rusted shocks.

? That would've been an investment and benefit to you.. One, you'll have a much better suspension and ride once replaced. Two, your resell value would've been much better. Three, you could've avoided an accident or damage to other parts of the truck. A quick and simple visual inspection could show it was a potential hazard. Glad you'll get it fixed and repaired now. Good luck with your future purchase.

 

Yeah, the truck was retrieved and taken home. I plan on getting some parts over the next week or two. Will update and post pictures as parts get repaired!

 

Just to give a quick update. The truck is still down which sucks, but I'm working on getting the money together to get it fixed. The current plan is to throw on new cv's and lift it.
I haven't settled on a lift yet. I'm debating on ome with dakars, dobinsons kit, or billys.
I'm heavily leaning towards the bilstein 6112/5160 combo but am unsure of the 5160s with dakars.
Will keep everyone posted and pics of the outcome once it all goes down.

 

FWIW, bilstein 5100s with OME 885 springs on a tacoma with no weight up front has been one of the most "comfortable to ride in" lifted tacomas I've ever experienced. It's also one of the least expensive lift options.

Kind of kicking myself for not going that route.

There are some great discussions on CVs here. OEM is hands down the best option, but also the most expensive. CVJ sells remanufactured OEM shafts and those are a solid choice as well. Cardone, which is also sold by Napa and has a lifetime warranty, seems to be the next in line in terms of favoritism.

 

Spacers are the least expensive lift option unless you experienced what the OP did. Glad OP is going a different route.