broken caliper bleeder screw.

Almost bit the dirt yesterday as I had my front driver's side brake line blow out from chafing on the frame. Had to run off the road to avoid running into the vehicle in front of me.

I have 6" lift and apparently the brake hose was rubbing against the frame for years when I turned the vehicle sharply. Upon inspection, the passenger side has the same issue but wasn't worn through all the way yet.

Anyway, I replaced both brake hoses (both sides) and adjusted them to eliminate the chafing problem and when I went to loosen the bleeder screw on the caliper it twisted off and broke in the caliper. So frustrated right now.
All I had left to do was bleed the brakes and I would be back on the road.

So I don't believe I can get what's left of the bleeder screw out of the caliper. I was looking at calipers on Rock Auto and there were so many brands but didn't want o get a piece of crap caliper. looks like the OEM caliper with shipping and core is gonna run close to $270 so I was hoping for a rock auto option to save some mula. Anybody got some experience on this?

Just an FYI, I do not have a Napa anywhere near me.

 

Maybe get some penetrating oil on it for a bit... Dremel a small slit in it and try a flathead to screw it out? Might also do some light tapping on it with a hammer while the penetrating oil is working.

Or if Dremeling is iffy, these things are hollow and soft...maybe tapping in a right-sized torx bit could get it out.

 

Here’s what I would do in your position.

First give it a try with a good extractor, knowing it probably won’t work. Maybe a little heat with a small soldering torch keeping the heat localized. Get my extractor in, put tension on it, tap the caliper with a hammer.

If I don’t get lucky, oem caliper. Think about a bbk upgrade. Then hope I don’t have the problem with air stuck in the abs module.

 

They probably are all made in the same sweatshop so take a chance. With a 6'' lift you could expect more problems in the future.
Just an honest opinion.

 

Trust me, they are not. Some are though. There are some truly crap remanufactured calipers available out there and they're nothing but trouble. OEM is truly the way to fly in the long run.

 

Well, I spent 2 hours last night trying to get the bleeder screw out to no avail so I have no other choice but to buy a new caliper. Drilled it out and tried a screw extractor on it. I hope you guys have had better luck than me with those screw extractors. I have never been successful with one.

Looks like OEM caliper will set me back about $240 with the $60 core charge. Does anyone have an idea how the core charge thing works? Do they send you a shipping label for it or just an address to mail it to and you have to pay for the shipping?

 

What is the bbk upgrade?

 

Big brake kit. They’re in the $2k range. Urd sells the stop tech kit for a little less. Sos sells and adapter to bolt on something. If you search, there’s a few different options. The Toyota trd kit is a rebranded stop tech I believe.

But all more costly than a single caliper.

 

Anybody have suggestions for brake pads from Rock auto?

 

^I use Advics AD0976, basically OEM ceramic but includes shims, whereas Toyota makes you buy them separately.

I had good luck with Raybestos and Powerstop reman calipers.

 

Sounds like it's too late but there is one other thing you could have tried. On bead lock wheels I've had broken bolts and used a left handed drill bit to back them out. A little penetrating oil first and the backed right out.

 

That situation, extracting, you have 2 added challenges. 1 it’s super tiny so you’re limited to extractors made small enough. 2 the tip of the bleeder screw tightens into a seat. So it’s not like having a bolt head broken off. With that it’ll often back out with just the reverse drill bit.

Core charge sometimes they provide a label or you have to print it yourself or shipping it back is on your dime. Reuse the box it comes in. There’s usually a time limit so don’t wait 6 months before sending it back.