Broken crankshaft key leads to tear down and timing service

Thanks for sharing. I was curious about the actual repair. Does the sprocket need to be pulled or does it just slide off the crank? Once the sprocket is off, does the key simply slide out?

 

The key was a little mangled so I tapped it out first with a hammer and flat head screwdriver and then used a needle nose vice grip to wiggle it out. After that I had to use a puller to get the sprocket off but that was pretty easy once I rented the 3 jaw puller. I was worried it would be a bitch to get out but with the timing cover off it was pretty smooth sailing

 

Anyone have a pic of their timing cover with the silicone gasket on it before they installed? I’ve read the fsm and seen what it says to do but I’m just wondering if there’s such thing as too much gasket on there. I think the manual says 3-4mm worth

 

asking the internet for torque specs instead of reading the FSM which is free is how one blows a motor.

whatever the spec is. It’s always different.
Based on the spec you can cut the tube nozzle to the right width for laying sealant and do a practice dry run with measuring gauge to verify it is laying down that amount.

 

Reason I asked is because I couldn’t find it on the manual myself

 

Check my link I provided earlier in the thread. I would suggest viewing that before starting. A lot of your questions will most likely be answered there.

 

Remember test fit, test fit and test fit the cover before applying any FIPG. Know how the key from the oil pump goes over the crankshaft.

Also make sure about the gasket that goes between the cover and oil pan. I used grease to hold it in place but there maybe other suggestions. Don’t mess that step up.

 

Are you referring to the o ring from the oil pump or the gasket maker on the cover and pan surfaces?

 

Regarding the gasket with grease? I’m referring to the one that goes on the bottom of the cover which is visible on the oil pan cover which is exposed below the crank.

 

This right?

 

Yes, the underside of that. There was a gasket there. If you don’t use something like grease the gasket will not stay in place during installation.

 

Ohh understood

 

How does grease help it stay in place?

 

Such a little thing. Such a big hassle.

 

Go ahead and try it a few times without it. If you are not using any grease, then it will not stay on the cover once lifted upright. If you put it on the pan then there is a chance that it will push in as opposed to maybe coming out where you can see it during installation. Remember you need to make sure that any surface where the sealer (FIPG) is installed must be oil free. Since the surfaces are clean there is a chance that gasket will grab the pan and slide off.

 

Put a few dabs of silicone into the recess for the oil pump o-ring. Or even a small bead. That will hold the gasket, as you slide it over the mating surface of the oil pan.

When installing the timing cover with the pan in place, I always smear the silicone on the oil pan, versus a standing bead. Works better at preventing future leaks.

 

You have options. This forum is a gold mine.

 

woodruff keys by design are ”weak”, or basically strong enough. They aren’t hardened steel like the crank
that’s the sacrificial part. Generally they shear along the rotation if there is an issue, never seen someone crush one before. Lol

 

And you guys are the miners

 

I’m just that good i know. It is nice thought being able to switch out a key and not having to replace the entire crankshaft