Broken crankshaft key leads to tear down and timing service

Also before taking the timing off I have to find TDC right? Do the colored chains have to line up with the marks at Tdc before you can disassemble or only the ones on the sprockets?

 

align the crank key with the timing mark on the block , then check if the marks on the cylinder head sprocket assembly match the mark's on the bearing caps behind it.

 

Typically on a chain you're rotating the crank clockwise from the front until the timing marks are lined up,
and can have the plugs out both to not be fighting compression, and stick something long inside that goes up and down with the piston showing it's at TDC as well.

Read the FSM.

 

How do you know it’s at compression and not exhaust? The old chains colored chains don’t have to be lined up with the marks as well right? This is all it said on the manual I found.

 

1: generally, if everything is lined up, then it is right. Certain pistons will be at the bottom. Certain ones will be at the top.

2: don't know what "cardiagn" is. Never heard of it. Deep engine repair you should probably do the following
-have and consult the FSM
-access the FSM online for free
-purchase day pass to FSM; no point in doing that considering the above options

you can read all the other stuff and youtube videos you want
but consider if a tech was doing something, they wouldn't be doing that instead, in addition to that being inefficient on time. They'd be reading the FSM.

 

all the valves will be closed lol

 

If you follow the FSM, as noted above, you can set TDC of cylinder #1 by the marks on crankshaft and the cylinder block. At this point cylinder #1 is TDC but you do not know whether it is getting ready to start its intake or power stroke. After you remove the timing cover, take note of the marks on the camshafts in relationship to the bearing caps. If they do not line up as indicated, rotate the crankshaft another 360 degrees to align the marks as indicated. At this point the timing is set. The colors on the chain may or may not line up with all the marks. During installation of the timing chain, you will use the marks on the crankshaft and block, camshafts and bearing caps and the colors on the chain. If you do not use the colors on the chain as well, you risk setting the timing incorrectly.

By the way, when cylinder #1 is TDC, there will be some cylinders with valves open, partially or closed.

Hope that helps clarify.

 

Pull the spark plugs. Make rotating the engine easy on yourself.

 

if you end up making marks to make things more visible

get paint
Dollar store whiteout
or paint marker pen from a store or online
Brakleen the area first so it sticks on the metal. Maybe wire brush and wipe with rag first.
Better than a regular black permanent marker.

 

I would use an industrial paint marker pen.

 

I assume that I should drain oil and coolant?

 

Yes. If you are doing the chain, you should do the water pump as well.

 

There are two coolant passages in the timing cover, that go into either side of the block. So yes, you'll need to drain the coolant. There is a small drain valve on either side of the block as well, to drain out the coolant passages around the cylinders.

 

Thank you. Also is the yotashop timing kit confirmed oem Toyota parts?

 

They are a well-respected vendor in the Toyota community, I wouldn't worry about counterfeits from them. You might use eBay if the seller is a Toyota dealer that you can verify, but most local dealers will price match if you ask. I wouldn't use Amazon.

 

I asked the eBay seller and he said they’re a distributor not a dealer. Part of me wants to go for it cause of the affordability. The seller has many positive verified purchase reviews, one even saying they bought a timing kit from them and it’s still going strong after 160k miles.

 

Eh, those can be faked. What is the cost compared to the Yotashop kit? Are they saying it's genuine OEM? If there's a significant price difference, it's likely a fake.

For me, a better alternative would be the INA kit that RockAuto sells. Quite a bit cheaper than OEM but from a legit company and seller.

 

It’s like $500 and yeah they claim it’s all oem. Yeah I was looking at the INA but it’s so cheap I thought it might be no good either lol. Ima call the local Toyota dealership and get a quote from them for a timing parts.

 

OEM pulley only. Trust me on this. I went through 3 aftermarket pulleys in a very short time

 

I’d slap a new oem crank pulley on it like it is with retaining compound and send it before I used non oem (or suspect) timing parts

loktite 638 has a 4500psi shear strength. A lot of surface area on the pulley and shaft, plus whatever is left of the key, plus the crank bolt. I doubt it would come lose if you clean the surfaces well and let it cure
Can always be removed with heat, although it would likely smoke the rubber in the pulley