Broken crankshaft key leads to tear down and timing service

At 230K, I'd replace the engine...

 

I bought a new Dorman pulley off Amazon just to fit onto the crankshaft to see how much key is left. It doesn’t really lock into the key so I’ve decided I’m tearing it apart and doing timing after I replace the key.

 

I’d hate to buy a new engine for a tiny replaceable key…

 

If you know the engine, it ran well and the key can be replaced then just fix it. If it was me, I wouldn’t replace working oem timing parts with non oem ones.

 

Can you tear down the engine yourself though? I will personally admit that I do not have the patience or the know-how to undertake such a job, and the labor involved at a dealer or even a mechanic could meet or exceed the cost of a replacement engine. If you have the ability to do the job yourself, then more power to you!

 

Can't hurt. Make sure to check what all is included in any kit. I just looked at eBay, and one kit doesn't come with the cam sprockets but does come with the crankshaft seal. Another one comes with cam sprockets but packaging looks suspicious.

 

The info and knowledge on this thread alone is damn impressive!! It’s like you guys are speaking a completely different language than what I know. Kudos

 

The engine has 230K miles. At a minimum, the guides are likely worn. If going in that far, water pump and guides would be the absolute minimum I would do. As mentioned, the crankshaft gear might get buggered up on removal, so probably have to do that, too. The chain has to come off, so might as well just refresh everything. At 230k miles and nearly 20 years old, I might opt for a quality aftermarket kit if money is tight.

 

Ultimately, the OP has to make the decision. I’m just speaking from experience, when I disassembled my engine to replace the head gaskets at 295k miles on it, the timing components were still within spec per the service manual. However, the experienced folks here and techs typically recommend replacing the timing components while you’re in there. I just don’t see a reason to use aftermarket parts when OEM ones can last 300k miles plus. My opinion of course.

 

I wasn't disagreeing with you -- I'd personally only do OEM on these parts, but I wouldn't trust an eBay "distributor" that sells the parts for half of what a reputable seller does. As you said, that's my opinion and I have trust issues. I've also been young with a high-mileage vehicle and not a lot of money. I wouldn't go with the cheapest aftermarket parts, but Cloyes and INA (same group as Luk) are decent options.

 

Too late…

 

Guess I’ll have to make a judgment call. I might risk it might not haven’t decided yet. Is there a need to take off the lower intake and the fuel rails? It feels like they aren’t really in the way for the valve and timing covers.

 

And yes I feel like switching out good working oem parts for aftermarket parts isn’t the best idea, but it’s also painful spending a grand+ on new timing gear when it feels like I don’t even need to. However I don’t want to do this tear down again for a while so I’m leaning towards getting new oem parts while I’m in there.

 

I’m overwhelmed by the wisdom and help I’ve gotten from everyone. Us taco owners gotta stick together

 

Well, if you do go the eBay route, do the one for $545 that comes with cam sprockets, o-rings, front main seal, and ships from Florida rather than the United Arab Emirates.

I don't think you have to remove the lower intake and fuel rails, just get the harnesses out of the way.

 

I know there are a few o rings that should be changed when I do the timing cover. I noticed a lot of kits don’t include those. Anyone have the names of them or part numbers?

update: think I found em can anyone confirm these are what I need?

 

working on the front sounds cheaper, easier, and less risky than finding a motor.

replace motor would mean finding a costly one with hidden issues, still having to do work on it. Getting an expensive hoist. Yanking the thing out.
Loosening trans. Loosening motor mounts. I’ve worked on my motor mounts before and it’s not fun.

Ideally O rings would be replaced if there is any
FSM and parts catalog should outline this and what is one time use

in a pinch generic o ring assorted kits can be of use but aren’t as ideal as the actual right part

what does look like a PITA is changing the serp tensioner. I still need to do mine. Apparently it’s not like other cars and easily bolted onto the front.
Rather it has a 90deg bend and gets sandwiched at the driver corner of the motor between the A/C compressor I believe having to get unbolted without much room.

Worst case scenario o rings can be cleaned and re installed with silicone grease
But ideal is new replacement.

parts catalog is worth consulting any time to verify latest up to date PN and applicable to VIN as sometimes revisions happen.

depends on the car.
Benz M112 with miles, chains are fine.
Audi/VW 2.0T, they are not.

 

Agreed

 

engine looks dirty
Hopefully no dirt falls inside
Depending on what’s loosened or covered up so far you may be able to do some cleaning first, to take off dirt to make sure it doesn’t fall into anywhere it doesn’t.

plus with any cleaning, and potentially quick scrub on bolt heads with wire brush
Less dirt will mean better able to mark things with paint markers
And easier time having sockets grab onto bolt heads

 

I’m gonna have to take the crank sprocket off and therefore the chain anyways in order to switch the key, so might as well do it all…