Broken CV Snap Ring

Broken outer CV snap ring Ontario the other day which dumped the axle. Anyone ever have this problem? Wondering if installation error or there is a way to put something in bind enough to do this. Had locker engaged in front around the same time it must of broke, but not doing anything crazy.

 

Broke more than a snap ring as your axle nut also holds the outer shaft to the wheel hub.

 

extended tc axle shaft. Thought snap ring held shaft in outer cv joint and then small stub out from there to the axle nut.

 

Only thing I can think of is your suspension setup is exceeding the max overall length of that driveshaft under some extreme condition not regularly encountered. You can see one end of the clip is plastically deformed... is that normal?

 

Thanks for the help. It is limit strapped, so I didn’t know if ring wasn’t completely in the groove and that may have cause it. I see that flat end as well. The ring had poked through the boot by the time I got it home.

 

Thinking about pulling the trigger on rcv’s and keeping these TC extended as spares. Do the RCV’s have a stronger setup for snap ring or just the other parts? Need to find the root cause of this problem.

 

Are your straps adjustable? If they're made of a polymer and you achieve max extension regularly then they'll stretch.

If you never use the last 1/2" of your travel then the snap ring never gets loaded.

 

On bump travel I have 2” of secondary bypass left and 1” of coil over according to the marks. On down travel it’s hard to see, but just jacking corner of pickup up it appears strap limits well before shocks maxed. Just can’t figure at what angle; down, up, turning it would have put that much pull on the axle. Had front locker in for a little bit and did have to turn, but that shouldn’t have done it as wasn’t going fast or hitting bumps when using it.

 

When you go to install the new parts, pull off the coilover spring and cycle the suspension. Have someone hold the steering wheel at full lock each way during droop and bump, then turn the hub and feel for bind. I could actually get more droop out of my truck but the axle would bind, so I adjusted the straps until that didn't happen.

The axle may have been assembled incorrectly. Those outer c clips are very strong. I really can't see how they would come un done like that. We installed some TC axles in my buddies LT 3rd gen and had to break that clip with a press. Let me tell you, it took Alot of force to shear it. For it to come out so "easy" and in one piece makes it seem like it was never fully seated. Just a thought.

 

My thoughts on the seat initially, but think it’s just time for RCV’s and keep these for spares. Thanks for the guidance counselor couldn’t find anyone with this type of failure in searches.

 

@tetten might have something to contribute

 

Never seen that problem, any certainty the CV was assembled properly? Did the Tripod/tulip side bind some how and not allow the inner joint to slide outward?

I've got RCVs and I'm not a fan, I actually pulled them out and use those as my spares now. Personally, I would take that $2500 and put it towards links.

 

What was the issue with the RCV’s? Tripod had no debris or bind I could find when I pulled the boot. Not 100% sure outer snap ring was assembled correctly.

Can’t go link. No decent options for rear gas tank that doesn’t eat up bed and desperately trying to figure out how to save fenders from going glass with bed cage and leafs. Lots of rocks and trees in my country that don’t like glass and too many dead elk to carry to eat up bed.

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/gone-surfing.551113/

Not that there's still no excuse, just different ones haha

 

Those trailing arms look like real rock hangers to me.

 

Well........ Still staring at it. Hate half measures with the leafs, but this thread is about the CV. May need to start another thread for advice.

 

Copy and pasting this from a another post with 2 extra photos:

They are a complete waste of money. For the price of RCVs I can buy 20+ junk yard OEM CVs or make 6 long travel CVs assemblies. This might vary depending on you location, but where I live in Socal I can get junk yard OEM CVs for $75.

On top of that, the boots on them suck absolute ass and require their in-house grease if you try to pursue a warranty replacement....and it costs $50+ dollars to get the grease to your door. So every time a boot gets damaged and has to be replaced you get to waste money on their own in-house grease as well as the cost of the boot. So if you lose a boot it could easily run you $50+ dollars every time..in the year I was running them I think I replaced 4 or 5 boots for various reasons. The first set was their own in house boots which fucking suck. Did a short 70mile trip with some go fast and rock crawling and 3 out of the 4 boots that they came with ripped open before I aired up at the end of the day. I ended up getting a different brand boot that runs about $15-20 depending on the exchange rate.

They also claim they get better articulation but on the outers, they don't. Since the outer joint has to have the same size OD on the cup they couldnt really make it larger to make it any stronger.... One of the things they did do was make the shaft bigger, which when they did that actually causes the shaft to hit the cup on the birfield side when at extreme articulation. I tried to squeak more travel out of my +2 TC race kit, but set it back to TC recommendations since the outer joint will bind when at maximum articulation. You can see the marks on the shaft where it hits the cup.


They also end up causing this if you shock load the front end with them installed. If you think running RCVs will allow you to beat your drive train up, think again.



If I can run Rubicon, Kane Creek, Cliffhanger, Pritchett canyon and more on 40s with beat to shit OEM joint CVs, there no need for RCVs.

 

Hard core, man. Fucking hard core.

 

No driving home from that. Thanks for the advice on the RCV’s

 

Talked me out of rcv’s. Going to work the tc extended and oem joints for another round. Had it up on the rack today trying to figure out how that snap ring broke. Can’t find it. Need to assume install error I guess.