broken driveshaft

Mine let go going down the road at i think 35-40 mph. It did a job on everything it could touch (gas tank, exhaust and skid).

Why did it break? I did have have a small vibration but could not find it. The truck is at Toyota now and instead of paying $1900 for a drive shaft they are getting me a used one. But why did this happen it broke after the carrier bearing ? I cant find anything on the internet of this happening.

the tape on the yoke was to get me off the road (very busy, no break down lane) I didn't want it hitting anything it worked.

 

Looks like broke at double cardan?

How many miles? I see minor surface rust. How often was driveshaft serviced?

My double cardan went at about 190k. Only cost me 600 though yo rebuild the whole driveshaft from a shop. Hope your price includes fuel tank and muffler?

 

the double cardan is intact, the little stub after is where it came out of the carrier...How is this attached to the front half?

150,988 miles, minor surface rust is nothing, i grease it every other oil change

Sadly that quote is for just the drive shaft, the tech said they could patch the gas tank..Is that a thing to do? The muffler would be replaced at a muffler shop

 

Whoa... that's kinda scary..

 

price is way to high. hell a new drive shaft is only 500ish bucks from any good driveline places. check with tom woods drive shaft they do great work.

 

Yeah, tbh, labor to install a driveshaft should be like 15-30 minutes at most... Literally something a 12 year old could do.
The carrier bearing installation on a new driveshaft might bump the labor up to 45 minutes. But $1900 to put a new driveshaft on...? That's when paying for the tow bill back home and ordering a brand new driveshaft is cheaper (and more comfortable) than bending over at the dealer when they done ran out of KY-jelly.

 

Having just replaced my center support bearing (i.e. carrier bearing) this past weekend, it looks like the staked nut that holds the splined flange to the propeller shaft (center support bearing supporting between them) came loose and broke free. I think one of your pictures still shows the center support bearing holding in place. The double cardan is still intact (I see the bolts still in place).

 

I think it is part 37120B that came loose.

http://www.villagetoyotaparts.com/s...ukey_driveline=0&ukey_trimlevel=0&modelYear=0

 

I bought one out of a junk yard today. It was out of a mint 97 2.7 manual trans same cab same bed. The drive shaft looks the same but at the end closer to the rear it does NOT have the spines where it pulls out or slides? I brought it to Toyota but the tech was not there so I have not heard back...Will this work?

 

It doesn't have a slip joint? Not good...

 

they look identical

 

So the junkyard shaft you found is identical?

When I first read this I thought the cardan had seized,,or started to. But that little staked nut seems the likely culprit. If that thing backs off,,bad juju happens (or could).

Did it cast off a balance weight anywhere?. Not scraped and beat off from the failure,,but missing?

 

They made me locate one, go remove it and deliver it too them I should say, beats paying them I guess.

It just doesn't have the slip joint they measure out the same. Can anyone confirm? Same truck everything the same.

Its one of the two I had vibes 4 days prior to this happening when I let off the gas only coasting, in any gear clutch down or up, but with a load it would go away...?

 

the drive shaft will not work I returned it and had to charge me a 5% restocking fee not a big deal. The dealer says they can only buy the drive shaft as a complete assembly but on dealer parts website (take your pick) it says I can but they are saying I cannot.....Which is right? They want
$1800 driveshaft
$430 Tank
500 labor

 

Most Junk Yards, er… .I mean Auto Recycling Yards will do a search for you.
If not, go on Craigslook.com
That site looks at Craigslist from all over the country.
Also, call a few Clutch and U-Joint shops. They build them from scratch, so I'm sure they can repair the one you have.
I snapped one on a semi truck some years ago, and a local outfit in Eau Claire, WI rebuilt it while I waited. Balanced it as well.

 

Can you say RIPOFF!!!
.
Run it to a driveshaft shop and get a quote on a rebuild and balance.

Fuel tank can be sealed?

 

I called RI drive shaft supply a few people told me to give them a call and they want $325 to make a 1 piece drive shaft and $500 with all spicer ujoints.. He had me measure from the tcase to the rear flat flange. the shaft would be 3-1/2" OD x 1/4" DOM he said it will be lighter than stock

 

Not to spend ones money,,but I was guessing in the $400-500 range. Absolutely Spicers. If they are going to 1 piece it,,make sure,,double check with them,,that you don't need the slip joint. Personally, I think you do. The suspension and driveshaft plays up and down in the back as you move,,constant changing angles, but there is also some length changes as the suspension plays thru its arc and as the rear end rotates under power. Did you happen to talk slip joint with them on the phone? what did they say?

You will have 1 long driveshaft,,dumping the carrier bearing and cardan double U joint.

Your connection will be solid from T-case flange that requires 4 bolts to mount it to the T-case,,to the U joint bolted to the pinion flange. See that?,, there is no "sliding give" in case something flexes or moves,, lets say,,your suspension. Almost all RWD style driveshafts have a slip joint,either in the drive shaft or on the transmissions with a slip yoke.

One thing I didn't research for is a kit that would allow you to add a slider yoke to the T-case, which would require a different output shaft on the T-case, probably a bigger output bearing as well. Probably not available.

It will definitely be lighter than stock. You will dump the cardan double u joint,,which is a big heavy hunk of metal that adds significantly to rotating mass/parasitic loss of power.

It should run better with just a 1 piece. So long as it is correct. Don't expect a HUGE increase,,but you should feel it in a gear or two as you rpm down the freeway onramp.

Sorry for the book. Just don't like seeing folks get taken advantage of or otherwise.