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Broken Skid plate bolt... next step? [FIXED! - Body U-Clip]

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by tenui, Mar 1, 2020.

  1. Mar 2, 2020 at 8:21 AM
    #21
    BillsSR5

    BillsSR5 Looking out for #1

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    Yes!, I used a vstandard size screwdriver first I got the 2 front brokestud/weldnut pryed off then I used the tire iron or a flat bar for more leverage, just wear gloves they will pop/fly off once you break them free, it wont take too much juice to pry them off, get a good leverage point on that frame and pull. you can get the clips at almost any hardware store I think lowes/homedepot may have them. the ones I got were called GM body clips and bolts m12-1.25 metric 30mm long. if you have a survivor oem screw bring it into the hardware store with u they can match up the size, I got my clips at ACE Hardware store you can buy individual pieces I needed all 4
     
    Last edited: Mar 2, 2020
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  2. Mar 2, 2020 at 8:26 AM
    #22
    tenui

    tenui [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I think I am just going to do the same thing... Option E) - snap off the welded nut, replace with zinc coated body clip, call it a day. :)
     
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  3. Mar 2, 2020 at 8:32 AM
    #23
    BillsSR5

    BillsSR5 Looking out for #1

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    that's what I resorted to do, I bought all the stuff to retap and drill out the studs first one I tried the weldnut snapped right off money and time wasted. I think I used the tire iron lugnut bar in my truck to pry off a couple the longer bar gives better leverage, then pop the welds break and a nice clean hole remains on the frame for the clips, I takes a little doing/patience to line the clip up for the plate but really no biggie. the screws are almost like a self tapping screw once started they find the threads.
     
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  4. Mar 2, 2020 at 5:12 PM
    #24
    tenui

    tenui [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Option E) took about 1 minute and 30 seconds. I used a 2 ft pry bar and the little welded nut popped right off. Took longer to take the photo. I seriously contemplated taking the brace off (and doing it the "right way" i.e. drill/retap) but upon further inspection those 4 larger and even more rusted bolts are also connected via a welded nut on the top side so I didn't like my odds. What's the saying: 'Occam's Razor: “the simplest solution is almost always the best.”'

    Picked up the "body bolt and u-clip" at Lowe's for $1.95 out the door. For anyone with a 3rd gen (but why would you be reading this :) you should just have them on hand for when doing oil changes.

    Will probably get a bag of the zinc/plated ones to have handy.

    Oh, and the vise grips broke the threaded side off at the nut as well.

    Thanks for the suggestions and ideas!

    IMG_0354.jpg
     

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    Last edited: Mar 2, 2020
    six5crèéd, 3JOH22A and BillsSR5 like this.
  5. Mar 2, 2020 at 5:24 PM
    #25
    winkel

    winkel Well-Known Member

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    I replaced all of my skid plate bolts with grade 8 bolts a while back. Best mod for the money.
    I also grease mine before reinstalling. I can usually find a little grease near my u-joints on the under side of the body.
     
    redz80 likes this.
  6. Mar 5, 2020 at 11:43 AM
    #26
    T0y0ta05

    T0y0ta05 Well-Known Member

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    So I ended up in this same situation after replacing the No.2 idle pulley at the bottom of the engine. It required removing the skid plate which of course resulted in one of the 4 bolts sheering off on me. Thankfully I read through this post and elected to remove the support brace with my impact wrench and placed it into a vice. Unfortunately, I wasn't able to knock off the welded nut so I just used a metal blade and my reciprocating saw to simply cut it off. I then sanded the area and hit the brace with two coats of black rust-oleum and replaced the broken bolt/nut with a similar stainless steel one from the local hardware store. I took my chances and re-installed the other 3 with a generous supply of anti-sieze but hopefully won't need to remove the plate any time soon. :D I'd like to complain but it's sort of expected on a vehicle 15 year old.

    20200305_130718.jpg
     
    Last edited: Mar 6, 2020
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  7. Mar 6, 2020 at 2:16 PM
    #27
    tenui

    tenui [OP] Well-Known Member

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    But how did you hold the nut to tighten the bolt? They are hidden, yes?
     
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  8. Mar 6, 2020 at 2:22 PM
    #28
    six5crèéd

    six5crèéd Be the light

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    Awesome fix :thumbsup:
     
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  9. Mar 6, 2020 at 3:18 PM
    #29
    BillsSR5

    BillsSR5 Looking out for #1

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    believe it or not you can get your finger tips around the skid to stop them from rotating, but its much better using the body clips because if they do start to rotate as your unscrewing or screwing the clip they will hit the frame and it will stop any rotation from happening. plus they stay put and wont fall into a crevice somewhere where u cant find like a loose bolt would
     
  10. Mar 6, 2020 at 3:33 PM
    #30
    T0y0ta05

    T0y0ta05 Well-Known Member

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    Ah, a fair question but in my case I got lucky and the sheer bolt was one of the back ones closer to the oil pan. Therefore, I was able to put a box wrench on the top nut while tightening it from below. Otherwise, I would have went with the GM body bolt clip solution mentioned earlier in this thread.
     

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