Btf LT install questions

About to install my btf kit on my 01 tacoma but I had a few questions. Does anyone know if I can use the factory style rubber bumps? There's no hole to thread into but if it lines up I could install one. Also do I need limiting straps? I plan to do mostly crawling so I don't plan on any hard wheel lifts.

 

@Dalandser

 

I’d call Brandon and see what he says - some arms aren’t made to bump off the factory location. Also you should definitely droop out your suspension slowly and install limit straps - iirc on your setup the uniball cup in the uca may be the limiting factor when it hits the spindle and you don’t want that taking the full weight of your corner setup.

 

I'm thinking I'm gonna get the arms in and see how the bumps line up. I don't need bumps to drive it around. I'm thinking I'm gonna do limit straps just in case. For a couple bucks it'll help me sleep better.

 

The bump strike pad is in the pic in the back so it will be there rear bump not the front that might work with it. Remember there’s a lot more leverage on the arm than the oe length and therefore a stock bump stop location can fold an arm on a hard slam / g out.

Limit straps ensure your spindle and upper arm aren’t your limit straps. Shocks don’t limit travel like mid travel setups.

 

Thanks I'm not too worried about the bump stop strength. It's more of a crawler then dunes. The paperwork with the locked coilovers said no warrenty without limit straps so I'm definitely gonna get those on.

 

Cv axle bind at full droop and wheels turned will tell you how much to tighten the limit straps up.

 

Good point - I forgot if you’re 4x4 it’ll be the CV limiting droop and not the uniball cup. It’ll also help the life of your steering rack.

 

Yes, then there is the rack. Probably alot less problems with crawling. At minimum get the 333 Fabrications alum bracket and Total Chaos bushings.

 

I have the solo heimmed tie rods and 333 clamp. I'll double check the cv move when at full droop and bump.

 

I'm sure you have a diff drop, but if not then that will help down travel. Just makes diff more likely to take a hit. Busted 2 myself.

 

Actually I don't. I went controversial and did a body lift to gain some wheel well room since I'm going for a big tire. I dont see an issue since the cab will be caged which will be tied into the frame. I'll see how the cv look I can always grind the edges of the cups too.

 

Definitely cut off the edges of the cups.

 

Experience? How far back do you cut. Do you cut or just grind the edge down?

 

Just cut the first lip off. One less thing to bind.

 

Well I got one side done ish. Still need to do bumps and limit straps so if anyone has brand reccomendedations. Also found out the front diff is blown up so that was a bummer.

 

Looks like a Tc uniball conversion snuck in there too.

 

Details on this in the first post

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/1st-gen-long-travel-chat.750980/

If talking about hydraulic bumpstops, Fox, King, Locked Offroad all make quality parts. The more important part is installing them so that they're 90* to the arm at full bump (ie 1/4-3/8" before you run out of shock shaft or before your uca bolt punches through your inner fender, etc.). All you need / want would be 2x2" diameter / stroke bumps.

If you're going with a poly bump, this was the idea I had with Energy Suspension $20 poly bumps and 3/16" cold rolled (or hrpo if none is available in your area easily):

 

Thanks for the help. I ended up getting some trail gear branded hydro bumps. I went with 2" by 2". Once I get to cutting the lip on the axle I'll measure travel and get limit straps on. I also found out the front diff has turned to liquid so some new ecgs assemblies will be on the way.

 

This thing looks sick! I can’t get around to installing my kit