Build Specs

So I'm looking for some opinions on my build specs. I'm currently deployed so I haven't started nor can I start yet. But I plan to as soon as I get home. So let me know what you think, maybe I can change something or improve upon something.


Hope for some good input.

2012 Toyota Tacoma $29,000
TRD OFF-Road $3,765
Bed Mat $120
Bed Extender

Suspension ICON Front Coil Over RR $1,250
http://downsouthmotorsports.com/i-47...reservoir.html

Suspension ICON Rear RR $850
http://downsouthmotorsports.com/i-74...shock-kit.html

Suspension ICON Billet UCA $1,150
http://downsouthmotorsports.com/i-47...l-arm-kit.html

Suspension All-Pro Leaf Pack $400 Tires General Grabber AT2 285/75/R16 $860
http://www.generaltire.com/tires/Grabber-ATsup2-sup



Battery Optima Yellow Top $220
Lights HID
Exhaust Magnaflow
CAI aFe Stage 2 Si Pro Guard 7 $400 http://afepower.com/shop/details_new...TG%&brandID=56

Battery Box Ruff Stuff Battery Box $50 http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/...g/OPT-SIN.html

Floorliner WeatherTech $200
http://www.weathertech.com/toyota/20...e-question/no/

Seat Covers Wet Okole Black/Gray w/ TRD Logo $650 http://www.wetokole.com/

Hood Struts Redline Quick Lift Plus $85

Scangauge II

Fuse Block Blue Sea 5026
Circuit Breaker Blue Wave 150amp
Voltmeter Tsunami FBWM801-ANL

and that ^^ for this
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/103200-blue-sea-fuse-block-install.html


All costs are estimated and round up. Haven't decided on the exhaust and HID lights yet though.

Thanks in advance for your opinions!

 

I agree. You should get the LSD with the SR5. I got one and didn't even get the SR5.
Compare the SR5 with the convience package. I prefer the black bumpers and fenders.
Your upgrade choices look good.

 

Fixed the last link.

I'll look into the SR5 with ARB Lockers. Thanks for the input!

 

So I just looked up the differences of the SR5 and Sport. The lowest Sport package is $3900, the SR5 lowest is $2300, and there's quite a few differences actually. ones that I'm comfortable with paying the $1600 for considering I'd pay more than that to upgrade afterwards.

But I'm still gonna look into the ARB lockers and dual Air compressor for a future upgrade.

 

So what does the $1600 get you that you wont be replacing with your planned mods?

 

It's all cosmetics and convenience items but I'm cool with that.

 

So my brother brought up very good points today.

He said I should get the TRD Off Road DCSB because of the ELocker and ATRAC. I mainly want the Sport for the Long Bed but he says regardless of what I use a Long Bed for the Locker is far more useful.

So far I honestly haven't used a long bed for anything except moving really. Which I can get a Uhaul or something. I can always get a trailer in the future as well.

Any thoughts or recommendations????

 

If you plan on parking it in a garage measure it. With my AC (same length as DCSB) the bumper is just over the first step.

 

I agree with the other comments about not getting the upgrade packages. If you want to spend the money, you can get all the cosmetic stuff for way less yourself. You're going to end up with a pile of expensive take-off parts that you will sell for 10 cents on the dollar. An ARB with a 8.4 conventional rear diff will be much stronger than the Elocker. Plus you'll have the compressor for airing tires etc. A DCLB is just too frigging long unless you live in places where there is no tight parking.

I would forget the UCA, and stick with a 2" lift in the front. Far fewer problems! If you really want to run those tires, you'll need a body lift anyway. You may still need some trimming. They will rub like hell on a 3" IFS lift. I would do a 2" IFS lift + 1 or 2" body. A 255/85-16 is a better choice for everything on or offroad, and clears better. They are about the same height. They can be run on a stock wheel, or an 8" aftermarket.

Instead of optima consider Sears Platinum AGM. Better battery IMO, cheaper and readily available at any Sears

I would forget the CAI too. Makes more noise than power, and the money is better spent elsewhere. Possibly a snorkel if like that sort of thing.

The exhaust isn't needed either, but I changed mine just to get a more pleasing sound.

And DUDE, don't forget the Scangauge! That should be first on the list

Everything else looks good!

 

Yeah I know the ARB setup would be stronger but for what I plan on doing with it the ELocker would suit me just fine. I will probably do OBA eventually though.

Starting to rethink the DCLB though. If I do go with the DCSB I will be getting the Off Road package though seeing as the long bed is the only reason I went with the Sport.

Honestly I don't anything about what you just described. I've read a lot of posts on here and others with the same setup had to trim very little which is fine with me. So I won't "need" a body lift. As for other problems I've only heard of a couple others. One of which can be solved by small diff drop spacers.

My friends, family, and I have been using Optima for years and we love them.

I noticed a significant amount increased power and not much noise with my CAI in my Tundra. So I'm gonna give it a shot at least.

Never heard of the Scangauge until now. Looks good I'll add it to the list!

Thanks

 

Check out my build page... Its got a lot of what you want to do. But I like what you have planned.

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/showthread.php?t=198287

 

Have you read all the posts about shimmies, shakes, and vibrations? If you look at near any 3" IFS lift, the fins of the CV boots are rubbing and the angles on the joints are too steep. These parts will wear quicker at those angles. The angles also cause problems with bearings in the diff. unless you upgrade to an ARB or install an aftermarket support bearing. Diff drops get you next to nothing. They are not even really a drop. All they do is rotate the pinion down , which by the way reduces the lubrication to the pinion bearings. Take a look at your angles and boot rub before and after the drop.

The fact is, people are willing to accept these problems in order to have the lift. You can go 2" and usually avoid most or all of them.

As for the tires, if the truck is not used off road, then the problems will be less. If you offraod the truck at all you'll have rubbing problems. Again it's a case where people want the bigger tires so badly they just live with the problems.

I've never seen any of these claims supported by real data. People think they are going faster because the engine roars. Do a roll-on full throttle accelleration from 30 to 60 by the stop watch, with and without the CAI. You won't see any difference. I've seen dyno tests with bolt on intake, headers, exhaust,...same thing. No real gains. The best I've seen is maybe a few HP at 4500-5000 rpm where nobody drives. These trucks are already optimized. The only way to get meaningfull gains is through head work and intake manifold work, etc. I'm just saying you can spend a lot of money chasing damn little improvement. If the 4.0 isn't enough, I'd put the $400 with the UCA money towards a SC.

 

Yep! Pretty much same ideas lol. EOD Techs think alike!

 

Points well taken. I read about shakes and such but not the CV boot and diff bearings. I will probably reduce the lift to 2-2.5" but even with that wouldn't the UCA help? Even a less expensive one like the Total Chaos Tubular UCA? That way I get a benefit and save some $$?

As for tires I'll look into sizes more and see. But I don't know about a 255, even stock comes with a 265. Thoughts?




I have decided to go with the TRD Off Road DCSB.

The benefit of the locker won the battle. And because it comes with 16" wheels I can save some money by either powder coating or plasti-dip.

 

I went with the 255/85/16 as my 33" tire for many reasons.
Wider than the 245s it came with, less weight, better traction, no rubbing, no cutting & no need for new UCAs.