Building a 2GR-FKS for max power and reliability

I swear every time I see that on the sheet my blood boils……. you can check the mats but not to see if there’s 7 quarts oil in the MoFo!!!
SMD Bighorn Toyota

 

So much bs that they think the overfull had nothing to do with it, get an opinion from an independent shop and take them to court over this.

 

Dimensionally the valves are identical to the stock pieces. The biggest part is swapping the valve seats for the exhaust valves. Those are also cheap, and any good engine builder/machine shop can swap them. They'll also need to be set up according to the manual.

 

OP starts a thread about his engine blowing up at 161k miles and we are talking about titanium valves, superchargers, ECU tunes, and lawsuits as solutions to his problem. Gotta love TW.

 

As an aside, I clicked the part link you posted previously and observed that it is way more than just the block. It includes pistons, crank shaft, head, cam shaft and many other things.

 

What makes the 1GR more reliable than the 2GR? I thought the 2GR was basically the same but with a shorter stroke.

 

^^^THIS^^^

Toyota USA and their regional rep is who you want to talk to. They don't want bad publicity and if it is the dealers fault they want it fixed and not happen again.

 

Appreciate the insight, I’m having the whole engine tore down by a private party & documented
New short block ordered, debating on supercharger……mainly what brand
And any other parts I can put in here to make it better than it was.

 

That dealer owes you a salvage engine with equal or less mileage, plus a loaner truck, all on their dime.

They admit to overfilling, with an obvious consequence being bearing failure. The crank beats on the oil entraining air to the point the oil film can't handle high load (rpm). Main and rod bearings make metal to metal contact, wipe, spin potentially, sending bearing glitter into the pan. By the time it's towed and the level checked all the air is gone again. Anyone that passed highschool auto tech knows that, let alone a certified tech.

Ask them to prove it wrong, overfill a new Tacoma coming off the delivery trailer, then rev it to 5k for 30 seconds.

 

Thats good, think Magnusson is the best SC for the 3.5 right now. URD has one, but is a centrifugal style, the maggy is a roots compressor.

 

Really just trying to gather info on how to build a better Turd Gen Motor……
And remember we’re not talking about my engine blowing up surprisingly at 161,000 after being well-maintained and cared for, we’re talking about an obvious problem caused by the dealership and their lack of intestinal fortitude to own up to the situation…… not even a little bit.
Will I pursue the issue further with Toyota corporate….?? IDK we’ll see what the mechanic has to say after he takes my engine apart. I’m well aware that mechanical things have limitations….. I also think I was well within the parameters of those limitations Had there not been a bunch of extra oil in my goddamn crank case. Everyone’s expectations of their Toyota would be shattered if we all had blown motors at 161,000
Toyota pretty much told me to Fuck right off,
So if I have to eat the cost of a motor myself why not make it better than it was???

 

Hadn’t looked into the URD, Thanks for the info I’ll check it out
Had it narrowed down to the Magnuson or the Pro Charger…… but it looks like I got one more to look at now, decisions are Tough!

 

If that option was on the table from the dealership, I would be all over it….. would definitely be hell of a lot happier than I am right now. But Last time I talked to them they didn’t wanna have anything to do with pony’in up for a motor

I’m supposed to go pick up the truck from the Toyota dealership and trailer it to the engine shop/mechanic so he can start digging into it. I’m going to try get what I can in writing from them about the overfill an see where it goes from there. Appreciate the thoughts on the subject

 

There's nothing you can put in there to make it "better," imho you have two options either pulled low mileage motor and another shop to install it or rag on toyota to fix it (they would probably do a 30-40% cost). Unless you go balls out and sue them and win, you'd be my hero but that would probably take years or you would get a dumbass judge who rules against you because he always rules against civil plaintiffs.

 

Ah, I thought you were doing the work.

 

I would love to……but don’t have the
time or place to wrench….. & It might be slightly over my head in Technical Know how.
If people want their house built correctly they call a pro….. such as myself
I would very much like this engine to be as reliable as possible and still make good power so In that regard I will also be relying on a pro

 

Something I will definitely be looking into, thanks again for the info bud.

 

So my mechanic got back to me today looks like a failure on #6 cylinder rod bearing..…. And spun a cam to top it all off. So it looks like, not only am I going to be rebuilding the motor….. but also the heads!!! Feel free to post links to badass shit….. I want to make this motor as good as it can be

 

Cam failure pics

 

So uh....







How's the 2GR max reliability build working out for you?









In all seriousness, cause of failure known yet?


Seems like the 2GR have seriously oil delivery issues.