Building the Badger

So I should have just started the job before posting. Once I had the belt off and seals replaced it went back no issue. I followed a write up I found here on tw. I thought it was odd to rotate engine two times and THEN pull pin on tensioner. I pulled the pin first and then rolled it through. The marks on the engine lined up with the belt marks and it lined back up first try with no slack.

The po must have been running it with the timing off. I also noticed one of the cam seals smashed in sideways. Glad I went that far to fix it.

 

Sweet, a haunted truck build. At what point do we install a green instrument cluster and start referring to everyone as a Shitter?

 

I am trying to get this thing started today. I have no fuel flowing up to the motor. I drained the tank, changed filter and added back a little over a gallon. Is there a way to.run the pump without cranking?

 

I have found a relay under the dash with a blue and white/red wire that I believe are to the pump. I saw somewhere that if I jumper these two it will cycle the pump...relay doesn't say anything on it really. Just part numbers. I can't find the post again that mentioned jumping the pump.

 

That is the Circuit Opening Relay, you would need to jump Pin 3 (Blue) and Pin 5 (White/Red) with the key on to run the pump.

 

Awesome thank you so much for responding. I didn't want to start jumping power and fry something.

So I jumped the two wires and no joy from the pump. I did verify I have 12v to the relay.
I guess I start dropping the tank...

 

Did you test the relay or swap with another known good one?

 

No I don't have another to swap with. I verified I have 12v at the pump harness with the relay jumped. I also put power to the pump right at the tank and nothing.

 

Smack on the bottom of the tank and see if the pump comes to life.

 

So I opened up the tank and pulled the pump assembly out. It was basically a rusty blob sitting in fuel soaked rust chunks. New tank on the way.

 

I admire you for your dogged work on getting that truck operational. East coast climate gives you challenges that just don't exist in drier climates. Out here in the west, that amount of rust would be a deal-breaker...

 

Admittedly this truck is a bit rougher than I would have liked.

 

So I was cranking it to start and it would not fire. Then it acted like the motor froze. Could not turn by hand and the ground wire to the battery got super hot. Turns out it was the starter that froze. I pulled a starter out of another 5vz and it spins fine but the sprog doesn't shoot forward. So I will be picking up a starter tomorrow. In the meantime I've been reading up on crank/no starts. They seem to be the most challenging repair to diagnose. One thing I notice when doing the timing belt was that the cam timing sensor has three wires at the sensor and the black wire disappears into frazzle at the connector.

Is this a ground that it needs to read a signal or will cause any issues being broken?
In the picture you can see three wires coming out of the sensor and at the end of the wire protector there is a frayed wire hiding the other two...I checked my donor truck in the yard and its the same way. Is this common?

 

I repaired the chassis ground at the battery negative. Not that it made a difference, just made me feel better lol than seeing it flapping around.

So this engine does run, I got it started on starting fluid. It threw a P0304 for cylinder 4. I swapped the coil with a spare and cleared the code. Tried again and it kinda maybe ran with a lot of gas pedal and no starting fluid. So far I don't have a radiator/coolant or any belts on the motor. Kinda surprised I didn't get a code for that but anyways. Kinda stuck now. I'm thinking to fill with water and install the radiator so the temp sensor is able to read something. Not sure if that would cause it to not idle...I double checked timing and its good, at least by reading the crank pulley. Open to suggestions.

 

I'm off to get a spark plug adapter today so I can do a compression test before pulling the injectors. It actually somewhat smoothed out above 1000 rpm's which gives me some hope.

 

I ran a compression test this evening. A few plugs are spotless like they aren't firing and one was absolutely filthy with only 5-10 minutes run time. Very happy with the numbers considering the shape of the rest of the truck. Now to figure out why I have a couple dead holes.

 

I know the west coasters will roast me, but that frame looks decent. Definitely needs attention, but I've repaired worse on my own trucks here in the Midwest.

Looks like the right shock upper mount was rusted out and the PO welded it up. Frame will be susceptible to rust again there. Not sure what the rope is for on the front end of the right spring...? Looks like it has a rear diff lock. Brake lines don't look too bad. The spare tire mounts are wedged into the frame, so if you remove it you'll need to beat it out taking one side forward. I'd recommend that because they rust in the joint.

I'd definitely get it drivable, then rehab the rear frame. Of course, the spring mounting points front and rear are priority.

Good luck. Nice work so far.

 

Hey thanks, the rope was to tie down a tarp while it sat for two years.

 

So I just had a set of injectors cleaned and filters changed. I never ohmed them before I sent them off. When I just tested them, they showed 14.0/13.9. I saw that they should test at 14.4-14.5. Did I just have bad injectors cleaned? These are out of a 99 5vz and my truck is a 2003. From what I saw that should not make a difference. They flow tested them and confirmed they worked. Should I install these or get another set? Working on a missfire code.

 

Well it runs! It idles at about 1500 and I have a horrendous oil leak from the passenger side cam seal. Just sits there and drips. When I put the seal in I thought it went in a little too easy. Maybe I need to glue it in? I didn't see any mention of that in folks posts. Anyways...parts are on the way for that. I replaced the coils and injectors so I don't know which one was causing the missfire.
So with the high idle...is the IAC the go-to for working that out? I know on my 2.7 it was either the temp sensor or the IAC and most often the IAC. They kinda live a hard life sucking down all that egr waste. This motor doesn't seam to have that though. No CEL. Just an Air Bag light.