Built by a 14 year old (with some help from my dad)

While dust shields are not fun, they can really help prolong the life of the tie rod ends, and ball joints that are otherwise pretty darned close to the hot brake rotors. YMMV

Those spindles look great!

 

You should take this thing to SEMA when you are done with a big sign that says "yes I built this" and stand right next to it.....keep up the good work sir

 

If you need a pair let me know, I've got them on the shelf in pretty decent shape off my 2010. I did the big brake upgrade.

 

Thanks, we are going with 4runner rotors so need bigger, skipping the expense for now

 

We got our rack out to clean it up, it is pretty crusty. we hoped to get the rust off and POR-15 it and replace the boots. But when we pulled the boots off and one had oil in it. so an unexpected expense...

 

remanufactured Cardone rack came and we got it painted in POR-15:

 

sub'd

 

Rack is mounted, bolts put back in upside down for easier removal next time:

 

Hope you used threadlocker lol.. I put my passenger side one right way up just in case since it's only the driver's side that's a hassle to get out.

 

We got the rear brakes done with all new hardware, wheel cylinders, coated drums, and since both ebrake fittings were broken at the backing plate, we replaced those also:

 

Then went onto prepping the transmission to go back onto the engine. We replaced the pivot with the one from the clutch chirp service bulletin:


Then cleaned up the part where the bearing rides and put a little high temp Moly grease on it. It has a little wear, but is not too bad:


Then cleaned the fork and put grease onto the pivot points and put on the new bearing from our Aisin clutch kit:




The put on the new slave cylinder with the accumulator removed (we plan to delete the accumulator):

 

Next we decided to tackle extending the CV axles following both the total chaos and service manual instructions:


We cut the bands and separated the inner joint:


Then remove the snap ring that holds the inner joint to the shaft and tap it off the shaft. Then remove the outer boot:


Then tape up the end and cut the shaft off as close as you can get it:



Then rotate the joint around and pop the balls out one at a time, then you can remove the cage and inner part with the shaft stub still in it:


Then press the stub out of the other part. It took around 20 tons to shear the c-clip inside on our DAKE 25 ton press:


we doubled up on the tubing to press it out and it still dug into it:


Then tap the seal off the outer:

 

I’m surprised it only took 20 tons. I’ve heard of people having to go to semi truck places with 100 ton presses and it using like 80 tons and sounds like a gun going off. Good work because disassembly is the hardest part. Reassembly is easy as hell.

 

Both were around 20 tons, and can confirm the gunshot when they go!

 

We decided on Toyota OEM Boots and used 2 of these kits:


Each kit has 2 packs of brown grease (inner), 2 packs of black grease (outer), new boots, all c clips, and boot clamps:


we blasted and painted the axle stubs then put on a new outer seal (toyota PN 90304-A0001) using a piece of PCV pipe:



Then put the cage, spider and balls back into the outer shell with new grease. then put the new clip onto the new shaft and tapped it into the spider:


We put the rest of the grease into the boot, then crimped the outer boot on with our Lisle Oetiker clamp pliers:


Then put the inner boot onto the shaft and put the inner roller thing back on with its c clip:


Brown grease into the inner hub:


Put the boot on and the clamps. There seems to be alot of confusion on the internet about the big inner boot clamp. We found out that this is a low profile Oetiker clamp and is actually made to be re-usable. They can be clamped and unclamped with regular pliers.


Done!


The +2" axles are Allpro made by Currie, that we got for around $500 from offroad warehouse after a $50 coupon.

 

I’m impressed you were able to get that inner clamp with regular pliers, I had no luck! I had to use these which made it a piece of cake.

Lisle 30500 CV Boot Clamp Plier

$21 Lisle 30500 CV Boot Clamp Plier

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002SREB8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

 

This thread is badass

 

Yes, yes it is.
If anything, it gives me motivation to get off my butt and work on my truck.

 

Keep the updates coming please.

 

What everybody else has said PLUS really excellent photography work as well. Easy to see all the details with perfect lighting etc. and explanation of what steps you are doing.
Five star thread young man.