Bump-Starts and runs great, won't start with key - P0335 - ECU replacement fixed

Just make sure there is no rust on the surface where the sensor sits and in the hole that could interfere with it seating properly.

Data looks fine to me.

 

So I'm trying to replace the CKPS but think I bumped into an issue, or am missing something.
I released the A/C compressor but think I have to remove it completely in order to get there (i.e. remove pipes and refrigerant).
Seem there's a plate that holds the compressor in the way, here's what I'm lookin at:






Or maybe I can release it with carefully a tiny wrench, but then why did I need to move the compressor?

 

I know on the 4.0L you have to remove the tensioner bracket and it can be done without unhooking the lines but I'm not sure on the 2.7L, maybe @Jimmyh knows.

 

I got nothing... I'll look and see what I find

 

This is what it says in the service manual. You do not need to remove the compressor or vent the system.

Separate it from the mounting bracket and hang it with a rope out of the way so you can remove the Idler and mounting bracket.

 

Thanks @Jimmyh

I've been busy all day.
And I've still got more work to do.

OP, I'll check back in later.

I really hope the CKP fixes it.

 

Too bad I didn't verify before opening up, no worries I actually figured it out without the manual so I basically did what it says/shows.

Here are some pics of the process getting there.
Remove the AC hoses:


Then remove the compressor:


Now the back plate:



And finally access to the CKPS:



So it seemed fine and new, mechanic did replace it, and turns out it was a Denso as well:



Unfortunately I'm still getting the same issue/symptoms and got some scopes as well.
Here's Cranking without start:


And here's a bump-start, and engine runs just like before:


Attached the raw scope files too.

Please if anyone has any idea to fix this, or even work-around, will be very appreciated.
Is there any way to program the truck's ECU to have a lower threshold (+/- Volts) for firing?

Now I'm off to rent an A/C Manifold and vacuum pump from AutoZone

 

Dang it.
I told Dm93 last night I was afraid that might be the outcome.

But neither of us could come up with what maybe causing the issue. Dm93 was ready to find a 2.7 and take reading himself. lol.

we need to figure what is “different” when they key is in the CRANK position.

And I will admit. I don’t really know what to do to figure it out. I could come up with things to test. But I don’t know it it would help.

 

Try jumping the starter. Make absolutely sure that the truck is in neutral and the ebrake is on, turn your key to the on position and run a hot wire right to the starter and see if it starts. If it does your ignition switch might be bad.

 

We already tried that.....
It's still a no start.

Good thought, but we already "thought about it".

But welcome aboard. We need all the help we can get.

 

Do we have power to the coils or injectors when cranking?
Or when the key is in the crank position?

Maybe we are loosing power in "Crank"?

Just "thinking"......

 

That is what I was thinking is that something is dropping out in the crank position on the ignition switch.

 

As mentioned, was tried already, plus verified I get STA signal while cranking to the ECU.

Indeed, the more brains better our chances.

I guess I could check, but looking at the wiring diagrams they are all powered from the ECU, hence I don't expect to get a reading. Along the lines the Toyota mechanic said: "the ECU is not allowing spark or fuel injection to happen", hence no start.

 

The injectors and coils should be ground side control.
Which means they will have power at all times. ECM uses the ground side to fire the coils and injectors.

I'd pull the STA fuse. And see if you loose power in the crank position.
Pulling the STA fuse will kill the starter. We don't really need the starter turning for this test.

I'll take a look at the diagrams in a bit and tell you what color the wires are at each.
(unless you want to look yourself) It'll be about an hour before I can look.

 

It's the Black/Red wire for both ignition coils and Injectors.

(I just had to go look) LOL

Thankfully, I saved your diagrams to my phone.

 

We pretty much ruled out it being something dropping out with the key being in the crank position by bypassing the starter relay with the key on.


I think let's check all powers and grounds at the ECM during a crank, we can also check spark and injection pulse and see if we're missing one or both. It's alot to check but I got nothing else.

Grounds:

E4 Pin 3 (Brown)
E4 Pin 6 (White/Black)
E4 Pin 7 (White/Black)
E4 Pin 28 (Brown)

E5 Pin 3 (White/Black)
E5 Pin 4 (White/Black)
E5 Pin 7 (White/Black)

E8 Pin 22 (White/Black)
E8 Pin 29 (White/Black)


Powers:

E8 Pin 1 (Black)
E8 Pin 3 (Blue)
E8 Pin 7 (Light Green)
E8 Pin 9 (Orange)


Coil 1 Control:

E4 Pin 17 (Pink)

Injector 1 Control:

E5 Pin 6 (Red/Blue)

 

I went back and looked at the wiring diagram.
What is the MREL output from the ECM (and ER relay) for?
The reason I ask is because the output from the ER relay feeds +B on the ECM.

 

MREL is the control wire for the EFI Relay.

 

That is the control wire for the EFI Relay, the Output from the relay feeds the ECM among other things. If we were missing that output the ECM would be a no com (offline) and we have communication with it at all times.

 

This is INSANE. Never seen anything like it.

This is a case that belongs on Scanner Danner or Ivan's page.
Because this is not something you will see very often.
Something weird is going on here.