Buying a used TRD locker

I am currently looking at buying a used e locker that came up for sale in my area, it has 270k miles tho and was on a truck with 40s which makes me nervous. Could I just buy and rebuild and be worry free? It’s also comes with front axle, could I do the same with that and put a locker in that for the front without it costing me an arm and leg?

 

What is it you are thinking of buying? Is it a complete rear axle with an e-locker diff in it? Or just just an e-locker diff? Or just an e-locker motor assembly? What gear ratio is in it?

 

40s with a factory TRD 8” elock and 7.5” clamshell is definitely a FAFO setup. I’m going to assume it’s setup with 5.29 ratio and seen some hard miles. Unless the combo is dirt cheap, it would be a hard pass.

Adding a locker to the front clamshell price varies based on which locker you want and if you can perform the install. Selectable locker is $1k+ minimum for the locker and an additional $300+ for the master bearing. Most shop around here charge $4-500 to set it up if you bring in the clamshell. Your best bet would be to buy from www.eastcoastgearsupply.com

 

It’s a 4.10 gear ratio same as the one in my truck, it’s the whole axle for 700 think I should still pass? If I rebuikd it with the ecsg kit you think I’d be fine? Or is she too far gone with that kind of wear

 

I mean he said it is the stock 4.10 gearing that my truck has, think the 40s still cause too much wear? And 1500 for a front locker if I can get it installed myself ain’t too bad I know it’s some pretty hard work tho

 

$700 for a complete e-locker axle is about right. Seems like the going price I've heard. What doesn't seem right is running 4.10s with 40" tires. Seems absurd to me. If true, pass on the deal.

 

lots of red flags if seller is running 40s with 4.10 even if it’s a trailer queen. I can guarantee it’s some harsh and abused throttling just to roll 40s over rocks. lol

 

Ok thanks a lot guys, I’ll tell him I’ll pass tehn I was going to pick it up today. Even if I sent to ecgs think it’s still to work to roll the dice?

 

Don’t think I could just send to ecgs or rebuild it myself and call it a good? Thanks a lot for input

 

Buy from ECGS and send your cores after you finish the install. No down time.

 

He finally got back to me this morning, turns out he wasn’t running the 40s on those axles which I was dumb to not realize but he said he hadn’t switched axles yet. But for 750 you think this 270k Mile dif is worth it? I have two buddies who have some decent experience with difs and if I follow Tim’s video I think I can get access to most of the tools needed but some of those pressings look tricky. Sorry kinda lost and stupid, so buy the full rebuikd kit from ecgs? And then send it back? Sorry I’m just getting into all this differential madness and it’s still a bit confusing but I think I’m going to pick up this dif it’s going to be gone in hours

 

Not sure if you mention but are you buying the complete drum to drum axle or just the third member?

IDK where you're located but complete elock axle ranges from 5-700 here and its never gone in a few hours. Most of those are 30+ days on market and eventually drop the price. They're nice and cheap to have especially if you're open 8.4 but most will opt to go arb, harrop, tjm etc for the 8.4

keep in mind, the 8"elock third will not fit the 8.4 housing

 

It’s for the whole axle drunks and all. Same hearing ratio, but yea I see what you’re saying but they are extremely uncommon here in Boise. Out market is very limited and the demand for off-roaders is huge so everything gets swept up quick. I know this axle will be gone by tomorrow, but I do buy it would you ship it out to ecgs or would you trust yourself doing it? That’s why I can’t just buy a third member because mine is an open 8.4

 

The factory locker is fine but not magic. If you can do all the labor yourself, buying a used axle can be a (relatively) cheap way to get a locker. If you're going to send it off to ECGS anyway, I don't see the much appeal in swapping in a factory locker.

Personally, I'd rather spend my money getting an Eaton/Harrop e-locker or an Eaton/Detroit Truetrac to install in my original axle. The Truetrac has the advantages of being cheaper than an e-locker and not requiring any wiring. It's not as good for hardcore rock crawling but it's more than enough for most people most of the time.

Do some research on the different types of lockers if you haven't already--spools, lunchbox lockers, selectable lockers (electronic or air actuated), clutch-type LSDs, Detroit lockers, and Truetrac or Torsen LSDs. They all have pros and cons depending on what you need. Go drive your truck with the factory diffs and find its limits if you haven't already, that will help you decide what you need before throwing a ton of money at things.

Any of these should fit your truck: https://eastcoastgearsupply.com/c-2...ta-t100-8-4-tacoma-non-eld-lockers-posis.html

Pre-built diffs are here: https://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-788575-tacoma-8-4-non-eld-t100-tundra-3rd.html

ECGS will rebuild the diff for you, or they will sell you a pre-built diff that you can install in your truck. Pre-built diffs require a core deposit. You can either eat the deposit (essentially buying a new diff), you can mail in your existing diff to be rebuilt (meaning your truck is undriveable until you get it back), or you can pay the core charge up front, get shipped a new diff, and then send your original diff in to have the core charge refunded (minimizing the time your truck is undriveable).

I'm confused by "front axle" here. Given that Tacomas are IFS, I'm not sure what that means. Do you mean to say "front differential"? If it's a complete axle, then it sounds like the donor truck is something other than a Tacoma...

 

if you know that the axle isn’t abused with 40” tire as you mentioned, just swap it in. If you’re adamant about getting a front locker, order a complete clamshell from ECGS and send in the extra clamshell you’re getting back as core.

 

Yea that’s true I see your point but all of those options are going to be more speedy right? In order to get it fully rebuilt I could either do it myself or send it to ecgs which with having another working dif that’s in my truck right now makes it not all that much right? I don’t know im overwhelmed for sure but I feel like 700$ is really good for a whole rear axle with locker for around here I’ve been lookin for months. I also have definitely takin this truck to some limits I snow wheel the shit out of it in deep snow and I take it some pretty questionable trails in the summers. A rear locking dif is going to be needed eventually, but I already have so much to do on the truck I want to keep it as cheap and basic as possible with being yk done to the best extent like ecgs does. So if I bought a third member from echos wouldn’t I need the smaller 8.0 housing that my current open dif taco doesn’t have. Also by front axle I meant the front dif yes but it includes the whole assembly

 

When I refer to ECGS, I meant you by a completely assembled clamshell with a lock, fully rebuilt. When the purchased arrived, you repackage the core (your old one or the one you’re buying) back to ECGS

 

Gotcha that’s what I thought. But I wouldn’t be able to buy a third member from ecgs from my current dif because it’s an 8.4 not an 8 correct?

 

you can. ECGS will ship you a complete 8.4” third with a locker of your choice. Once that arrive, you swap it out and send your old third back as core. That’s how they’re able to ship complete third. Then your core will get rebuilt and send to someone else that makes the purchase. Visit the following link:

7.5 clamshell
https://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-157180-tacoma-4runner-7-5-reverse-ifs-clamshell.html

8.4 third
https://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-788575-tacoma-8-4-non-eld-t100-tundra-3rd.html

Select from the drop down options to select gear ratio and locker choice. Honestly, if you plan on running taller tires later, this will be the best time to get the correct gear ratio. Thousands of people will say, I won’t go taller than 31 than eventually they go 33 to 35. Some will venture to 37s and solid axle swap after that. It will be cheaper now to get the correct gear ratio vs doing it later. You’ll end up paying double the price if chose to add gear later.

 

Alright thanks a lot man you’re a huge help. I think I’m going to buy this axle hit it with a simple rebuild or just put it in. Then when I want to tackle the front and a better ratio I’ll just resell it and probably get almost what I’m paying then I’ll always have my extra og one that’s in great shape and technically stronger with the bigger housing that I can put a ecgs member in. Cheers mate thanks again