Buying a used TRD locker

One question, do the ecgs members come with the electric motor to activate the locker?

 

no, you retain the actuator and transfer it over.

 

It’s been a while and I’ve had jobs come up with the truck that took priority but now that it’s all solved and I now have this locking dif, that I know was working fine when it was taken out but is at about 250k miles. Should I just throw that John in? Or bother rebuilding it with a few of my good tech friends using Timmy’s video as well as ecgs rebuild kit. Just feel like it’s a lot of work if I don’t plan on regearing. Which I am fine with the 4.10 ratio now with my 33s and I don’t plan on going to 35s until after I get my supercharger business figured out so at least 6 months in time. If anyone can give me any feedback whatsoever it would be appreciated

 

I would run it. Many axles out there with more mileage.

 

Alright yea from what I’ve been reading I should be alright. Is there anything I should be careful of or make sure I am aware of with a locker? I’ve never had one before and I understand how they work and when to use them but I don’t necessarily know about issues that I need to be watching out for if you know what I mean. Thanks for the help

 

How do you plan to engage the locker?

 

I have a plug and play eblocker harness on the way that I ordered, some dude in cali specializes in making custom elocker harnesses, he’s dealt with a lot of yotas

 

I just finished an e-locker axle swap over the weekend. Went with the Low range offroad harness, but it should be virtually the same as the one you'll be getting.
A rebuild wouldn't be a bad idea, but I'd just run it as is. More than likely it'll be good for 100k+ more miles problem free.

Couple things to think about; the parking brake cables may not be the same, and the brake hardline may be slightly different. Depends on your truck and the donor truck.
I had to use the parking brake cable that came with the elocker, and was able to use my old brake hardline, though it didnt line up 100% to the mounts.

They moved the parking brake cable from above the axle to behind the axle at some point for some reason, and the cables don't seem to be bolt-on interchangeable. I'm sure it could be made to work with some fab though. The arms the cable attaches to on the drum is rotated 90d between the two configurations, one to accept the cable on top of the axle and over the leafs, the other accept is behind the axle and under the leafs.

As for the locker operation, with these aftermarket harnesses there is no safety. With an oem wired locker, if you hit the button going 75 on the highway nothing will happen. With the aftermarket harness it will engage (not good). Just something to be aware of. Don't hit the button on accident. Should only be engaged at low speeds or even just at a stop.

 

Sounds good thanks a lot for all the help. Yea I’ve hear about those lines having some issues connecting. I just went with the premade harness so I know it’s right, but yea definitely will avoid hitting it on accident. I am a avid/begginer fabricator so I can probably weld some tabs up to it no issue. Just hate dealing with hairlines

 

Is there anything I should be worried about doing while I’m wheeling? Like can give it the beans with it or should I be trying to take it as easy as possible

 

... I would suggest working up to "giving it the beans". The handling and feel of the truck will be different. I'm not sure what kinda wheeling you're into. The locker will make the backend wanna get outta line pretty easily on loose surfaces. Don't run the locker if you're trying to make tight turns on a high traction surface. If you find yourself with the locker on, both wheels spinning, but one without traction, be mindful of the dynamic loads on the driveline and truck when that spinning wheel does regain traction.

 

Outside of situations that are specifically bad for a locked rear end, such as those outlined above, I wouldn't be all that worried about breaking something with the axle. I'd be more worried about breaking something/anything else by sending it too hard. I'd say the rear axle is stronger than your IFS.

Best way to wheel is pretty much always to go as slow as you can, at least when we're talking about preserving the health of your vehicle. With a locker carrying momentum through obstacles isn't as vital as it is with open diffs. That's not always as fun though. Just don't do anything outrageously stupid and you'll probably be fine.

 

Thank you that was the response I was looking for pretty much. Yea I’ll only use it in harder sections of trail where I know I’ll need it. I’m not that new to wheeling I have taken this truck up many trail I probably shouldn’t have and I have dealt with the ifs problems but their easy and cheapish to fix (ball joints and tie rods) but eventually one day down the road I’ll go LT. but I’ll probably run this axle until then