Buyobuyo's Build Thread

In due time. I need to get the suspension build done first.

It corrects the speedo and odometer.

 

But that is just for visual purposes right? Or does it give any actual input to the motor in terms of RPM to balance it out better?

 

Yeah. It's just so the speedo and odo read correct. Not sure what you're asking in that second question.

 

Sounds good man, I wasn't sure if it had the capability to alter RPM inputs when the gas is applied for a more accurate and balanced tuning instead of just a visual readout correction.

 

I just sold my shell, so my truck is naked until I can put on the Bestop. I have wait and install it at work on a weekend when I can park in the shop and let everything warmup. The instructions say not to install or fold down when it's cold. I'm going up tomorrow morning to bleed the brakes but can't install it because I need to replace the weatherstrip on the bottom of the rails. I ordered weatherstrip today, so it'll be here in a few days.

 

Damn I thought you were committed to keeping the shell long term? To me it made sense for camping purposes.

 

The shell wouldn't fit with the fiberglass bedsides because the tops are wider. I have a Bestop to replace the shell I just sold. I just have to wait for the weatherstrip I ordered to come in before I can put it on.

 

Drove to work this morning to do some maintenance on the truck at the Auto Hobby shop.

The brakes have been feeling softer than normal, so I flushed and bled the brakes and clutch. Also, I finally got around to adding a shim under the driver side fog light, so I can finally aim it down to where it needs to be. I had the tires rebalanced to see if it would get rid of the vibe I picked up after last weekend's trip to Bald Mountain. I can tell a slight difference but the vibe is still there. Finally, I dropped the front skid and confirmed what I've expected for a while now. My water pump is leaking.

I also finally received my frame plates from @jeffz0rz. They're dry AF and covered in surface rust, which means he doesn't bother recoating them with rust inhibitor after the plasma cutting process burns off the factory inhibitor coating on the plate. I guess 30 seconds of his time and a can of silicone spray or WD-40 is too much trouble.

 

Bummer about the frame plates. Do you have to cut out the stock “x” in the rear in order to install the plates? Can you sand down the plates to remove the rust?

 

Yeah. The stock crossmember that holds the spare goes away. The spare will live in the bed for the time being. A swingout bumper is on the wishlist.

The surface rust will come off. If I have time tomorrow, I'll start working on removing it and give them a wipe with something to keep them from rusting again.

 

Nice man sounds good then, half of my armor that isn’t painted had slight surface rust on them. With some 120 grit it came off pretty fast. I’m getting the dmz plates for mine as they are designed to get welded around the x cross member in the back. It’s a little more expensive, but should be simple to install.

 

This is more than 'slight surface rust'. I think Jeff sells a set that keeps the stock crossmember.

 

Wow man that’s kind of rough. Might take a little bit to clean that up. Tim’s plates are in pieces instead of strips like that.

 

Yeah. It will take some work, but it's doable.

Sounds the same as Jeff's plates that keep the stock crossmember. I think I read that they're multiple pieces as well.

 

I just back from visiting the family for Christmas and received my shock tower relocate from @ARCHIVE Garage and bed corner tie downs from @At The Helm in the mail today. Now I just have to wait for a weekend when it's warm enough to paint the tie downs and figure out how I'm installing the shock towers. I'm leaning more and more toward buying myself a welder. Maybe in the next month or two that will happen.

I also just ordered a water pump, idler pulleys, tensioner, and cab mounts. My water pump is leaking, and I'm pretty sure I'll have to remove at least the upper idler and tensioner, so I may as well replace them while I'm at it. I figure the cab mounts are about due because I had a hell of a time getting the upper bolts in on the boxed part when I installed my @Mobtown Offroad sliders. I had to cut down a couple of the bolts to get them in.

 

I doubt it was your mounts, there is a technique to getting those bolts in. You have to slide the L peice toward the back of the truck slightly and tilted up stick the bolts and from the top pointing down and then slide it back in place.

 

I think I get what you're saying. Too late now though since they've been on since the summer.

 

Man I hated doing that water pump!! Such a pain in the ass to wedge it in there. You don’t have to remove the tensioner, just the pulley

 

I've got the 4 cylinder, so the alternator and tensioner have to come off to get to a few of the bolts. The parts will be here later this week or early next. I'm ringing in the new year by catching a cold, so I'll probably tackle this in a couple of weeks.

 

Massive change in the weather and it's 65 today versus the at/below freezing all day it had been last week. It was raining this morning but it broke long enough that I was able to put a couple coats of primer on my @At The Helm bed corner tie downs. While I was waiting for the primer to dry enough to put paint over it, I started installing the Bestop that I picked up a month or so ago. (Thanks again to @fatfurious2 and @quis23 for the TW express getting it to me.) About the time that I started snapping the fabric to the support bows, it started raining again. I soldiered on despite the rain, and after much cussing trying to get the side windows installed, I won the day and got it installed. All that is left to do is install a strip of velcro along the front bed rail to attach the front. I installed a strip, but it pulled up while trying to get the side windows installed and wouldn't stay down after that.

Here's what she looks like now. I was only able to get it into the first tension notch for the time being.