C Rated or E Rated Tires....What Do You Run?

I’m wondering if off-road orientated SL tires like the wild peaks, ridge grappler and duratracs have stronger side walls they say a SL Highway/all season tires like the factory goodyear AT with Kevlar?

 

You are probably right.

Its just one time, i had SL goodyear wranglers and managed to get a 13 mm wrench in my tire. I know, haha!

So it just left a bad taste in my mouth. I always had LTs after that and always great ecperience, except for the LT pirelli scorpions that i had, just an overall garbage tire.

 

Toyo RT E - they are much more stable when towing than the oem Toyo A20 Ps.

 

At least in the case of the Wildpeaks they do, they have the same high turn-up on the sidewalls in SL as they do in E.

 

You wouldn't be downgrading your capacity because you're still well below the tire's maximum capacity.

 

I'm gonna repeat it cus I drove the truck this morning.
These BFG 285/75/16 in E are so smooth compared to my Maxxis Bighorn 255/85/16. Even when I had the bighorn down to 18 PSI, it was like a damn wooden wheel.
This weekend as well, I was just on a rocky road for a short stretch so did not deflate, and it rode like a dream.

I think the E rating cant' be the only factor, the tire manufacturer/style/aspect ratio as well seems to be a factor. At least in my case.

 

I would go with C but don't go offroad and would rather have better mileage.

 

I'm running the same BFG's and they just seem harsh. Running them at 32 psi everywhere unless I'm hitting trails. I have a Bp-51 suspension set on the cushy side.

 

Also, I think it's obvious that tire quality matters, but my friend who is new to the offroading "scene" cheaped out.
He got some "laufenn" tires C rated. I told him dude, buy once cry once. The first trip out to a very easy trail, he blows 1 of them (sidewall puncture). A combination of going to fast and rocks.
Shortly later that day, a second one almost completely pierces the sidewall. Got rid of them and bought some K02s.

 

I'm not gonna lie, I have to check my pressure. I just got the tires and been running whatever America's tire put in.

I dont wanna bash the Maxxis, but maybe those were just BRUTAL, and these seem like a cloud. I had to double check the sidewall rating this morning lol. I wonder if the aspect ratio of the tire is what is making the difference.
I'm running pretty stiff suspension in front. OME for extra weight. I'm about to get kings 700lb set up, well see how that rides, prob go to 650 if it rides like shit. I'm getting used to this nice comfortable feeling.

 

I always thought that my Maxxis E rated were immune to getting punctured, so I ran a shitty spare.
Just when I was about to throw them out, I punctured a sidewall on them.

No experience with C rated tires on truck. Nice to see everyones thoughts on em.

 

I was driving down a somewhat steep grade road with a consistent curve to it and on my SL tires I felt like I was sliding off the edge. Weirdest sensation ever. If I move up to 17" wheels I'll likely buy C ply for the weight savings and increased comfort but I'm not too torn up about 16s right now.

 

Yeah, definetily not a good feeling haha.

I had 16" E load duratracs and they were not bad at all. That inch really makes a difference.

 

I run 33" E-rated KM3's and my take away is this:

Positives:
1.) Super tough
2.) Better for towing

Negatives:
1.) Heavy
2.) Tire doesn't conform to terrain as well (10 PSI is no problem for low speed and helps)
3.) PSI can impact contact patch/wear so PSI is a window if you want even tread wear
4.) Wears well but seems to "chunk" easier.

The brand and size of tire all makes a difference.

 

I got SL rated 265/70/17 General Grabber ATXs about 25k miles ago, mainly because I didn't know any better at the time. I'm in the Rockies every weekend either wheeling or running FS roads. They've seen some pretty significant abuse on sharp scree, drops, roots, and extreme temps. I've never gotten a flat and the tread looks barely worn. The sidewalls are scratched up, but no significant gouging.

I'm not suggesting this should be the norm. I'm moving to a C or E next time around, but at least wanted to share a note for people with passenger tires. You don't need to go drop the money right away if your SL (P) load tires are doing the trick.

 

that lateral roll you describe is one of the many reasons i only run E's on the Tacoma. on the other car i also run the firmest suitable tires i can find, which happen to be Coopers, and look to be designed similar to the ST Maxx, and they drive like them, too.

 

F=ma

Rotation is acceleration, more mass equals more force to turn the tires.... more gas must be burned.

 

I don't have a preference. I think you should pick the right tool for the job.

My truck has E rated tires because X3s in the size I bought only came in E rating. I needed a mud tire and I was hoping this one would be more tolerable on the road..... it is, but it's still a mud tire.

 

Again, unsprung weight and rotational mass are two different things. Tires have both; but only one affects mpg.