Cab mount chop and fender flare mods?

Hey guys, so I installed a 3" Toytech Ultimate Lift kit and have completed all of the cutting and trimming that I needed to clear 285 x 70x17's (see below)

However, I need to figure out the best option for the "cab mount chop", and I also wanted to see if anyone has some input on the best way to trim modify my stock fender flares. I only cut back the rear portion of the fender so I only need to mod that portion of the flares. Any suggestions/ideas? (see below)

I have reviewed many threads on here that have addressed this issue but none, that I saw, that directly related too the cab mount chop, or modifying the fender flares.

So pictures, ideas, and any advice would be very much appreciated!

Thanks in advance!

At this point the desired amount of fender has been removed, slats cut for re-rolling the fender.


The fender has been re rolled, welded and ground down smooth.

 

Hmmmmm, I must need to learn to make my posts sexier in order to get some replies I guess....

 

Good luck man! I can't offer help but some support haha

 

Look under BAMF vendor section. He has write up with pics for the cab mount chop. Also how much were you rubbing that you trimmed the fender and not just the flare?

 

KCDuran: lol, thanks man!!

BulletToothTony: I was barley rubbing there was a tiny bit of clearance, maybe 1/4"; but I wanted to trim it back to make sure I don't have any issues in the future anyways.

 

I don't get it, why don't you just cut the flares to match?

 

Seems a bit excessive to clear 285's. generally you just need to trim the bottom section of the flare on the inside.

Here's a pic of my chop before I boxed it.

 

Maxamillion2345: That's what I plan on doing but I don't want a big gap between the flare and the body.

MadToy: I had my flares off and the outside corner of my tread would still bump the fender. So I trimmed it. Thanks for the picture though, just trying to get the best idea of how to cut and box the mount.

 

Plastic weld a lip back onto where you cut, you can probably manage with a soldering iron, HF has shitty cheap ones -- but it'd be enough for this project, then you can probably use some epoxy of some kind. Try a few tubes of the plastic weld epoxy (autozone etc) on the front and rear and then blend it all together, maybe a little bondo, and then you'll have to paint it. You could probably get away with just the color match duplicolor spray paint and some clear.

 

From the looks of your picture it seems like the pinch weld can be flattened more. It literally can be flush and the corner of the firewall is a perfect right angle. Also this seems excessive for 33s. You can bump up your caster significantly further than the 2.4 factory spec in order to clear the rear of the fender well better.

 

maximillion2345: Thank you, this is exactly the sort of advice I was hoping for! I can figure out a way to do it, but I just want to get some other input (like this) on how others have done it, what works well, etc. Thanks again!

ktmrider: I actually hadn't touched the pinch weld in these pics it is flush now. I will check on bumping up the caster, because on my vehicle these tires are not hitting the fender anymore, but still rub pretty bad on the body mounts. Your the second guy to say this is excessive, however, when I started the tires were nowhere near clearing the fenders, flares or body mounts. Thanks for the feedback!

 

How is this working out for the OP?

 

That's odd, I barely needed to trim anything when I put 33s on mine with a 3" lift. I cut a bit of the inner fender out and took the mud flaps off. It still rubbed a bit on something when reversing at full lock but I never cared about it enough to check what was still rubbing.

 

Did u trim the spot weld ?