Cali Raised Led Lighting /Brackets*Great Affordable LED Bars And Pods* And ROCK SLIDERS

Not the bar

 

Gotcha just tap the pods to the tails and then the bar to something else using two add a fuse?

 

The bar should come with a harness which you can run right off the battery. Or an aux fuse box if you have one. No need for add a circuit with the bar.

 

Take a wire coat hanger and straighten it then take pliers and bend the end back over on itself. Like a u. Then crush it down flat. Then that is a blunt end and it won't pokey poke any wires or tubes or anything fragile.

 

Two more hours spent. Thats a total of 6 hours spent on this now, and still not through the firewall. Seriously thinking of just making my own wiring harness up and going through on the passenger side. Very very frustrated.

 

I was wiring some switches last week and had to do the same thing. I cut the end off of the nipple. Try sticking the zip tie or hanger through from the cab side towards the hood first. Shouldn't be anything blocking it. Can also put a dab of dish soap or something on the wires. I managed to get two 8 awg wires through.

 

I just realized you're trying it on a 2017...which I know nothing about. That wiring bootis probably different than my 2015

 

Bunp

 

@CaliRaisedLed
What kind of Lumens, LUX, and Peak beam intensity are you guys getting from the (2x2 20W OSRAM Pod)?
Was gonna go with Rigid or BD, but 80$ a pair for an Expedition Truck is kinda hard to beat. Are they made here or overseas? Come with any warranty? Thanks.

 

So our 2x2 20w Osram Pod gets about 2,200 lumens, we use 5D optics which is a concentrated spot beam. We manufacture our products over seas and we also have a 2 year warranty on our products. We really pride ourselves is our affordability and quality. So when you choose us your getting a reliable product at the end of the day. If you have any other questions just let me know.

 

Sounds pretty good. Are any of the pods wide beam by any chance? Or plan on making one sometime?

 

Our 3x2 is more of a flood/ wide beam compared to our 20w

 

Yeah, windex is also very effective. That's how I got some 10GA wire AND coaxial cable through the small grommet up higher on the driver side firewall, but thanks for the tip.

What year is your Taco? Is it a 16+? If so, I think you may appreciate my challenge.... I have a huge brake booster (I think that's what it is) assembly right where my hand would go, interfering with getting this done.

I never thought of trying to go "out" into the engine bay, rather than "in" from the engine bay. That may afford me more room to play. Will try that today. Tonight I am volunteering for an overnight TSD rally (this https://www.mlrc.ca/MLWR/) and would really like to have the lights. If I fail, I have come up with an interim solution... use a fuse tap and relay off the high beam fuse to power the circuit, and then mount the switch under the engine compartment in a zip lock bag until spring when I can get through the firewall. Why spring? So I can do it outdoors, as I have had no luck in finding anyone who has a garage that's not so full of crap that I can get my truck inside, and it's well below freezing here this time of year. As for my own garage, it has two race cars in it right now, and is over 100km away.

That could explain the difference! I will try to get that promised picture today to show you what I am dealing with.

 

OH. MY. <EXPLETIVE> <DEITY>

These things are insane! INSANE!

Yesterday I hooked the lights up (after over a month), still didn't get through the firewall (gonna drill), and they're still not aimed properly (down about 5-10˚) but WOW.

I left Ottawa at about 17h00, and was driving to Bancroft Ontario for an overnight TSC (Time Speed Distance) Rally, to volunteer. When it got really dark I turned them on. The bad news is they are so bright that when you shut them off for oncoming traffic (you're not using them on the road, right?) your low beams will seem like candles by comparison.

So "wait", you say... "you didn't get through the firewall, how are you turning on and off the lights?" Glad you asked! I bought an add-a-fuse tap and tapped off the right-hand high beam fuse in the fuse/relay box by the battery. I then put the switch that the lights come with in a zip-lock baggie, and put a bunch of zip ties around the baggie by where the wires go in, like a turtleneck. It's good enough for the remainder of the winter. That means when I am off-road, or on backroads for volunteering I pop the hood, click the switch, and now the lights are coupled to the high beams. When done, I flick it off, and no LED lighting regardless of headlamp state. This is a very workable solution for anyone who does not want to go through the firewall, but you still have the option of doing so later.

I saw a cat, a raccoon, and three deer. I probably would have seen the racoon with the high beams.... he (or she) was taking an "extended road nap" in the oncoming lane. The cat I would not have seen, and the deer... nope. The side spill is generous and useful, but the straight on lighting... the spot, is long throw with good spread, but not hot in the centre.

In the spring when it's warmer, I have decided I am just drilling a hole through the firewall so I can run some wires. I have decided to pull two of my coaxial cable (antenna wires) out of the grommet and nipple they run through now and run them by themselves to minimize interference. I still have maybe 4 more lights (2 + 2) to go in, plus some emergency lighting, so that's going to be at least 3 more wires, maybe as much as 9 if I run ground all the way plus a 2nd pole tracer for status.

I have contemplated simply running a serial wire through the firewall.... 3 tiny leads, and then using an Arduino inside the truck talking to an Arduino under the hood. I could then pick up all kinds of signals.... ignition sense, headlamp status, hood open, doors, dome lights, tailgate open, basically, everything, on whichever side it appears on, and control relays on whichever side I need to. A USB port to a tablet would let me change programming... and I could add as many switches as I want with tiny wires. TINY... as they would not be carrying much more than 5mA current each. Could even add some cameras to the mix.

Anyway, I could go on, but suffice it to say very happy with the lights *AND* the NASA grade mounts.

 

PS: Thanks to everyone for their suggestions... they will come in handy when it warms up.

 

are you guys out of stock on the amber pods altogether? I'm wanting to get the 2012 fog light brackets + amber pods; the combo is out of stock but the amber pods alone are marked in stock.

If they're out, when do you expect a restock?

 

Yes we are currently out of stock on the amber we will have more by Monday!

 

Great, will order.

On the 2012-15 tacoma fog light plates - do you guys still have / make the early version where the pods were aimed further out to the sides? I remember during development, the pods were aimed wider laterally, and after a few runs the design was adjusted so the pods aimed more straight forward. I've already got pods aimed straight ahead, and I'd actually prefer fog pods aimed wider.