Caliper bleeder screw (which one to get?)

I all.
I have a 98 2WD STD tacoma.
I was replacing the brake fluid and noticed one of the bleeder screws is broken off.

The ones on the truck are all 10mm screws. But looking online for replacements
I see that for the model year Amazon shows M7-1x34mm
Doorman 13905 or Russel 639570 which have check valve.

These seem to need a 8mm wrench as far as I can tell.

On the truck the rear brakes, the LSPV valve, and the calipers are all 10mm.

Any ideas? There are no tacomas in junkyards nearby either so any other car I can take these from?

Also, I tried using a vaccum pump to bleed the brakes but couldn't get fluid to flow. specially on the rear. is these possible on these trucks? I had to have someone press the brake pedal for fluid to flow. Does the LSPV valve also needs bleeding? Does it need to be on the up position for vacuum to work?

What's the bleedding procedure on these trucks?

Thanks in advance.

 

The thread size/pitch is what matters, not the shoulder you install them with.

The Russell with a check valve is their version of a Speed Bleeder, good for one man bleeding via the pump the pedal method. Those are useful if you bleed your brakes a lot, like on competition vehicles, but not so much on our street trucks. I loved mine on a Solo II / HPDE car I had for a number of years.

I've always been quite successful doing either a gravity bleed or 2nd-person-pumping-bleed, on everything else; never saw a need for a pump for home use...........

Can't imagine a unique procedure on the truck. Always start with the rear that is the longest line from the junction box, the other rear, the RF, then LF (assuming RF is longest from master)

We assume here the master is healthy, full, and kept full during the bleed process. If the master is replaced, it should be bench bled prior to installation and system bleeding.

If I've stated something wrong, due to ABS or some other quirk on this particular vehicle, someone will be along to correct me.

 

Thanks Bill, I agree the speed bleeders are overkill, I was trying to avoid having different size nuts on these things if possible. The hand pump is suppose to speed things along compared to gravity. But it didn't work for me. Not even gravity on the front driver side caliper had much effect.

I find this a little weird since I had success with gravity and pump on other vehicles, brakes seem to be working fine, no leaks, it might be the way this master cylinder works that does not allow fluid to pass thru it easily.

I'll try to drill out the broken bleeder in the morning.

 

I use a vacuum Bleeder for all my bleeding needs

Since one bleeder was broke maybe the other one is full of dirt

As cheap as wheel cylinders why even mess with drilling it out

 

I think there's something with this master cylinder that the fluid does not drain with gravity easily.

The broken bleeder is on the front right, so it would mean a new caliper or drilling...probably about $100 but I have not checked.
I was a little too aggressive with the easy-out and long story short I had to drill it out, then used a tap to clean the thread.
the bleeder tip then came off with ease.
Picked up the simple bleeders from doorman from local parts store. Too bad they are 8mm nuts so I swapped both front bleeders.

I left the bleeder out on the left side and the caliper out on the right while i went to the store. some fluid spilled from the right hose. but by the time i came back only about 1/4" drop on the level at the reservoir. again, gravity does nothing.

I had someone pump the pedal and that behaved as normal, so I bled the front and called it a day.

I know have 8mm bleeders in the front and 10mm on the back, Oh well.

 

Is this accurate?

M7-1x34mm

 

I think it comes down to just what vendor supplied the parts in your truck.

Then what parts got swapped in over time.

34mm does seem a mite long but if it is end to end it might be correct

 

Not what I wanted to hear...

But, thanks for the heads up!