Caliper mount bolt size - answered!

Sounds about right. Who ever owned my truck before me used red loctite. It took what you described above to get them out. I used blue going back in.

 

That’s hateful of them. I don’t use any loctite on brakes or suspension for the benefit of future me. Just paint mark so an easy glance will tell if it’s coming loose. Nothing ever has.

 

leverage and science the sh!t out of it

 

I tried map gas on it Saturday

It's really really stuck

 

The CaCl they put in the road salt here corrodes aluminum, and in places where a fastener goes through Al and into steel, it wicks the AlCl3 and Ca into the threads, and seizes like you wouldn't believe.

 

Did you get the head red hot? (Not ideal when using a torch)
I’ve been intrigued by the inductive bolt heaters, but I don’t do this stuff enough to justify buying one.
This is a case where that might do the trick.

I’m still down with breaking stuff. Worst case, you’re pulling the spindle and drilling it, or a new spindle?

 

Worst case is letting the mechanic do it. I'm gonna go crank on one tomorrow and if I don't get it out or feel good about the chances I'll probably get some spindles, then put the old ones with calipers still in 'em in the rebuild pile along with the PS pump and alt I have sitting around with rebuild kits taped to them.

Gotta change UCA bushings anyway and that just leaves the (recently changed) BJ bolts to rip the spindle out and start fresh w/ a new one.

Maybe I can drill the old spindles and gusset them.

 

Here's some upskirts of the truck. It ain't showroom but it's better than most up here.



I'm real diligent about it but some stuff just doesn't get touched very often. Calipers have been on for probably close to 80k.

 

Not red hot but hot enough to to know it would have expanded plenty...had my hi torque m18 on it and nothing. First time it ever failed me

I also have been curious on the induction bolt thingy. Wish we had one last weekend

 

What size breaker bar are you using? Please tell me its a 1/2 inch..

You should be rounding the head off the bolt or cracking the socket before the bolt breaks, those things are strong af

 

I actually bought a 3/4” breaker and a reducers. 3/4-1/2.
I get nervous when the breaker starts to flex. That’s when things can get sketchy quick.

 

I may have found you a part number, I just need to know your model code.

 

I find an impact wrench set a little low so it hammers it a lot will loosen things better than a breaker bar. Make sure the socket is an impact socket and 6 sided instead of 12.

 

Should be GRN-245 - 4WD Access Cab. I believe all 4WD models should use the same caliper/spindle.

 

It’s listed on the VIN sticker on the drivers door jamb.

 

Make that all 6-lugs 2005 and on. Just go crank on it already, it’s all in the leverage. That bolt isn’t gonna break.

 

It shows two part numbers. I'd say call the dealer with your VIN and see which one is correct.

 

Yeah I don't know anyone's mechanical ability. I hear guys at work all the time say stuff like "the ball joint wouldn't come loose" or "I got all the hub bolts out but the hub wouldn't separate from the knuckle" - and I just know that either the hammer wasn't big enough or they weren't swinging it hard enough. I mean there are rare cases where I'd break out the air chisel, but never on anything light duty. You gotta swing like you mean it.

That's not a knock on OP by any means. Just a knock on random IT dudes at my work that think they're swinging the hammer hard, but aren't hah.

 

I replaced the 4 bolts on my '06 4X4 access cab with part number 90080-10213. Bolt is Class 10.8 metric and 46mm (1.8125") long.
I would use something like Kroil instead of PB Blaster. Oil the hole in the front of the knuckle where the bolt threads protrude if you already haven't. That's where the bolt threads get rusted on.

 

Thanks!