Caliper pistons sticking

Installed new ceramic pads on front . Truck will go a mile or two with perfect brakes then all a sudden the pistons won’t release(both sides) tried everything that I could think of, installing new brake hoses right now but not really thinking that’s the issue. Took calipers apart, no scoring or bad spots , just a little dirty but cleaned them up and still same issue. Anyone had this problem? They’ve been bled correctly but still sticking. This last go-round it was the inner Pistons on both sides that were sticking. It’s just weird to me that both calipers are doing the exact same thing, could it be the pads?

 

Pads. Also why do the Pistons have different machine marks on the bottom of them?

 

Did you replace the retractor springs when you did the brakes?

 

On the front disc brakes?

 

Multi piston calipers are high maintenance - time to get a Toyota re-seal kit, clean out the insides and rebuild them. The outer-caliper fluid cavity collects grit and dirt, and none of it flushes out even when doing a brake flush (I supposed you could put a vacuum directly on the individual caliper though) - the grit eventually gets under the seal/caliper surface and causes the seal to clamp around the piston(s) more than intended, causing uneven pad wear.

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I guess the main thing that confuses me is how it has the pressure to push the pistons in but doesn’t have the pressure to retract them. And it did it on both sides the day that I change my pads. I didn’t change my rotors and it was almost as if the pads were close to too thick but like I said we would go a few miles and hit the brakes on and off and they would be working great and then all of a sudden thhe would want to lock up. I double checked and the pads are correct for this model and I change the brake line just to make sure. Now I’m about to bleed them again and if that doesn’t get it maybe it’s a booster or something expensive but it’s just odd how all this started Simply by changing the pads

 

Caliper kits from the dealer are only $20 for everything to do both sides. Make sure you take your VIN number in with you as there was a change in midyear 2006.

 

All my rings and rubber pieces seem to be fine just like the pistons, that’s why I’m confused.

 

have you ever adjusted the pedal free play?

pg3

http://www.customtacos.com/tech.old...6toyrm/06toypdf/06rmsrc/rm2006ta/04200410.pdf

 

Easy way to tell if a brake is mechanically stuck or hydraulically stuck. Open the bleeder screw. If it frees up, you have a hydraulic issue up stream.

 

If it doesn't, you definitely have a mechanical issue... but it may well have been caused by a hydraulic issue upstream. Run around with sticking calipers creating tons of heat, and you'll eventually get your pistons to seize up nice and tight, too. Then you'll replace your caliper(s), think everything is fine and dandy for a while, then be cursing "those POS calipers" later when the new ones lock up.

Source: Did it a few times on my old car. Thought I'd replaced both hoses, found out a few locked up calipers later I'd only done one. It'd be fine for a while, then slowly start shaking like it had a warped rotor on the highway, then eventually start shaking even without hitting the brakes.

 

Just went through this on my 4Runner and silver tacoma. Just replace the calipers with good quality rebuilds and you'll be happy.

 

I got it back together, working great but seems to have a very slight drag which will go after a few days, as long as the calipers are retracting I’m good

 

What in the hell is a "retractor spring"?

 

Technically, they are anti-rattle springs, but they wrap around the retaining pins and keep the pads away from the discs. Most members do the dual spring mod when doing brake pad changes.

 

return springs, similar to the ones pictured. They help keep the pad off the rotor, but won't fix a stuck piston, that is for sure.

 

Well those don't retract anything. The "retract" wording was messing me up. They don't.

Their only purpose is to prevent the pads from rattling, and they don't do that very well either.

 

I'm not sure if it applies to Tacoma's but I bled the brakes on my mountain bike, then later changed pads. I had too much fluid for the new thicker pads and it caused them to bind. Maybe check your fluid level.

 

Same bs this morning and yes springs were installed. I mean with both calipers sticking it tells me it’s probably not the caliper, I mean what’s the chances of both going out? Perhaps I did something that f’ed up the abs ? It has a fuse under the hood... or could be booster but again all this started when I went to change pads so that tells me a did something I didn’t catch causing all this, could a blown abs fuse cause this? Also it was like the pads barely fit

 

Maybe the pins are the problem..
Most parts store carry them.