Caliper pistons sticking

It was mainly just A question more so than a statement. Because if your pads are worn down to almost nothing I feel like a partially stuck caliper wouldn’t be as noticeable until you got that new pad in. I’m not a mechanic obviously but wow with both calipers all of a sudden start doing that.? I mean the master cylinder head to be bad before I started the Pad job but who knows but that’s why am here and like hearing you guys input.

 

On a couple of my old pickups and 4Runners, the emergency brake setup would rust and not work properly. I had to keep hitting it with PBblaster and a heat gun until it "melted" the rust away and allowed full movement of the parts. You probably need to take the drums off to see what's really happening.

 

See that’s the thing I just re-did my rear pads and springs and cleaned up everything so all my brakes working fine but the E break won’t fully engage maybe I think I have it adjusted but I don’t I guess I’ll climb back under the consul and take a look

 

This f’ing thing. Ran like a top all day then calipers seized up again at a red light. Got It off the road, turn the truck off, Held Pressure on the brake pedal and did a quick bleed on front calipers so they would release. Doing fine now but wtf, maybe slow leak that let air in over the day? Shit it driving me ape. Guess I’ll get it home and another thorough bleeding.

 

How to adjust the rear brake SHOES.

NOTE: Make sure you adjust the shoes until the drum locks, then back off 15 clicks. It will probably still have some drag to it. Leave it it will take care of itself. Also you may need to adjust the parking brake cable under the shifter.

 

I'm still thinking the pads are too big or incorrect as they should not be tight going in if you pressed the caliper pistons back.

The master cylinder makes no sense to me.... Just saying..................

 

Thanks @Jimmyh

 

Without disassembling the calipers you are guessing and might as well replace or rebuild them. There is no air causing this it can't air compresses brake fluid does not. If the level changed in the master cylinder when you replace the pads there is nothing wrong there.

 

What year is this truck? also when you say you took off the consul what are you talking about here?

 

They aren’t tight anymore . Just wasn’t pushing pistons back enough but I figured that out yesterday. Rotors turned fine, brakes worked fine all day then all a sudden they seize.. I’m working on them again now, going to bleed them double the amount and see if that helps

 

You can take console out to do a manual adjustment of the e brake but shouldn’t have to, 2006

 

To adjust the rear brake / parking brake you do what I suggested above. Then for cable stretch adjust the cable under the console ( IF Needed ) as per this depending on auto or manual transmission:

https://www.customtacos.com/tech.ol...6toyrm/06toypdf/06rmsrc/rm2006ta/04300110.pdf

 

10/4, I’m trying to get these calipers figured out then I’ll move on to parking brake. Thx for the walk through

 

My old 4Runner would lock the front calipers and not release them and it ended up being the master cylinder going bad. I bought a rebuild kit and it fixed the problem. If both calipers are locking and not releasing, it's most likely related to the master cylinder or fluid. You might need to do a full flush now on the front brake lines if some junk got through.

 

Hi,
What is the dual spring mod. I think I might have a left front brake pad rattle on a 2017 tacoma.

 

Each brake caliper has one spring on the top pin. You simply buy another one and install it on the bottom. There is a great YouTube video on it.

 

Thank you. No side affects of using 2?

 

None. Just install it as you would the other one, just mirrored.

 

Thank you. Springs arriving today. I was curious yesterday and moved spring to the top position and rattle seems to be gone. I will put all 4 on today.

 

When you initially did the brakes did you open the bleed screws before you pushed the pistons back into the caliper?