Caliper Sticking - Tried my best to figure it out

Is it possible the wheel bearing nut is to tight. It would cause the wheel to not turn freely and would heat up the rotor.

 

thanks J!

Wheel bearing were replaced first as I assumed that was the cause of the vibration, and I’ve heard them groaning for a while. Replaced with new entire hub assembly, I did not press the old bearings out or anything, just new hubs. Given my budget, I did go with Cardone, I know that’s not the highest quality option on the market but I’ve used them before on my old 87 4Runner with success.

Jacked up the truck, and the wheel bearings both feel tight using your recommended test, no play or wiggling. I want this to be the issue it doesn’t feel like it is.

I certain hope I didn’t eff up the ABS by pushing old fluid back. I did bleed all 4 brakes, and did so each time I opened the system for either a caliper replacement or line replacement. Fluid looks very clear, no air, no junk. The passenger side drags significantly more than the drivers, the new pads obviously have less room the move than the old, but this was the same issue as the old ones. Sorry, not trying to say “it’s not this!” over and over I’m just trying to be methodical.
I’ll try the test with a passenger on the brakes here in a bit!

The fully rebuilt caliper was only $130 so not all that bad. I’ll try other options first

thanks again!!

 

Ok, I don't want to leave you hanging. Brakes will have a certain amount of drag on the disk especially with new pads. So, if we cant rule out the passenger side based on the information that I understand from what you've given me, what's the condition of your drivers side brake pad?

I don't think you've done anything wrong by not opening up the bleed port when you compressed your pistons. Countless other users here have done the exact same as you without any reported issues that I could find. I wouldn't sweat it.

Is it possible for you to attach some photos? Does your calipers have 1 or 2 pistons? I just want to make sure that I'm looking at the same brakes that you have since I had to guess that you might have the 2 piston brake calipers.

-J

 

Good point, book doesn’t call for synthetic, but I called my Toyota dealership and they said synthetic would be 100% fine. I’ve been using for about 50k.

 

I suppose that could be possible, the wheel bearings I used we’re pretty-assembled I’ll find the torque specs and check it thank you

 

Thank you very much!! I’ll send pics once I’m back home.

Calipers each have 4 pistons, two per side of the rotor.

 

FYI. You should not mix dot ratings and you you not mix glycol base and silicon based brake fluids together. Ie. Do not mix dot 3 with 4 even if they are both glycol based as it will give odd performance because the boiling is compromised and no lower dot#s with silicon based dot5.

 

There is some good reading on this if you search mixing brake fluids.

 

Had this happen on another car the proposing valve on the anti lock break sys got stuck (pushed the calipers open to fast? when replacing pads)
Disable the ABS if you have to bull the plugs on the unit and try it