Calling all Carpenters/Structural Engineers. New home construction ???

Usually we use concrete and lumber .

 

I know that building many structures for my family and others! Just have fun ! I also figured some people on here have plenty of knowledge ! The people who don't and speak as if they do were the ones I was referring toooooo!

 

I may build my next home with ICE blocks
http://www.iceblock.net/

 

I would ,but, 72 in PA tomorrow where I live tomorrow! Won't last long!

 

What's bad about OSB? The builder I'm using has 3/4" T&G OSB listed in the specs, we haven't started digging yet and I'm new to this.

 

that 3/4 T&G is most likely for subflooring.
Nothing wrong/bad about OSB. It is a replacement for plywood at a lower cost. Unless you are using quality plywood...you may be better off with the OSB. Do not let it get wet though.
I've used it many times. But none on my newest home. I used 4-ply 1/2" on the walls. 5-ply 3/4" on the roof.

 

Oops sorry I didn't type that out, it's the subfloor. The exteriors are definitely plywood, I don't know thickness, tyvek house wrap and vinyl siding, R38 roof and R13 ext walls, and I'm upgrading garage to R.. something from having none. I know the exterior are 2x6 16OC and interior 2x4.

 

exterior 2x6 walls should be R19.
by R38 "roof" you mean ceiling I suppose? Is yours a vented attic?

 

Where do you live? I built my last house used Advantech 3/4" subfloors, 1/2" on all wall sheathing , 5/8" on my roof! It's like OSB much better product! The young growth trees are chipped up and the bonding material/ glue doesn't allow water to permeate the substrate! It's a few grand more in material cost for the same coverage area! Who cares about that in the entire project cost it's minimal! Most OSB sidewalls with plastic siding of some type , insulation rolled into stud bays, drywall , paint finish. You can kick with good steel boots right into your livingroom ! HaHa

 

Yeah, but a comment like this VVVV makes you sound like a know-it-all-douche.

Just sayin'.

 

My main problem with that stuff is below grade waterproofing and insects

What do you guys do in your area to solve those issues with ICF's ?

 

SW Ohio, I searched and found they are actually 2x4 ext walls so the R13 is correct

 

we don't use the ICE blocks below/at grade. we build a stem wall foundation with CMU's and pour a slab. the ICE blocks are built from the slab up.

 

OP and others - I would have no (read: very little) concerns with building styles or local building codes in relation to structural integrity. As long as you are using a licensed, experienced carpenter/contractor who is following building codes you should be fine. Modern building codes are (IMO) over engineered for structural integrity and insulating value. For good, safe, responsible reasons. OSB/plywood/16" or 19" OC studs/ 2X12 rafters etc all are fine when done correctly. If you are still worried after all that you have read here, I would recommend going and pulling the siding and roof off of a 150 y.o. Victorian anywhere in the country. You are likely to find studs and rafters at 24" on center, tarpaper not tyvek, and rafters and joists that are sometimes as small as 2X6 (though TRUE 2X6), and no joist hangers or rafter hangers.

Are modern houses more rock-solid? yes. With much higher r-values? yes. Should you be concerned about whether your stud spacing is 16" OC or 19" OC? no.

 

There's your first upgrade should you wish to make one , or alternately do exterior insulation , foam or rockwool

 

I guess not a lot of basements in Florida

 

Tarpaper is a better WRB than Tyvek IMO

but I gotta agree having insulation versus no insulation will give you a better R value

 

very few. there are a few hilly spots up here in N Florida where they have built "walk out" lower levels.
I hate a basement anyway. I don't like useable attics or stairways either. so Florida fits me well.

 

I disagree. (assuming of course the Tyvek house wrap is installed correctly)