Camber issues with lift and UCAs

I recently installed a 2" lift with 5100s, OME coils, and Camburg balljoint UCAs (Pre x-joint version with Moog style Bjs).

My alignment shop is experienced with lifted Toyotas and custom aliments with SPC arms etc.
For some reason they cannot get my camber in spec any more than it is on the printout I've attached, and I was told "These arms have a lot of negative camber. We can't get your camber much higher than 1 1/4 degrees left and right."

The shop has never seen Camburg arms before and therefore aren't 100% sure if they are the issue or if its something else. They recommended I swap to JBA arms but after spending over $2000 CAD on the Camburgs, JBAs aren't exactly in the budget right now....especially when they'll only MAYBE fix the issue.

Truck handles fine enough, just worried about ruining tires.

I've done some searching through the TW threads and cant find much info on this.

Any ideas?

 

Camber isn't horrible. I wouldn't worry about it. Caster is what you would like more of.

 

Yeah i emailed camburg and I should have way more caster. Waiting to hear back from them but something definitely seems off.

 

post pics of how they have your alignment cams set

 

The fact your driver side is full in on both and you still have almost a full degree negative means your uppers are either too short (if adjustable) or something is bent.

Passenger can come in a little on the front (camber-dominant) to eat a little more of that camber and there's slack on the rear (caster-dominant) to go out a hair if you need to get caster back.

 

Uppers are not adjustable. I wouldnt be surprised if something is bent, she gets wheeled hard and put away wet. UCAs, LCAs, Tie rod ends are all new. Inner tie rods dont look bent visually.

 

Smells like a bent spindle or UCAs too short then. Caster/Camber will be mounts/joints, control arms, or spindle.... there's nothing else that will impact it.

Spindles bend super easy so would not be surprised.

 

if i was a betting man id say drivers side spindle is bent and the shop aligned passenger side to match as theres loads of adjustment on that side. technically if you went with spc arms you could use the adjustability to compensate on that side. i personally dont recommend them as their quality has gone down significantly over the years and they wear out fast

on a side not if you still have stock bushings then do not grease them with those cam bolts. rubber bushings have no moving parts and do not need grease. having the sleeves spin on the mounts would be bad.

 

Get a Toyota they said.....it'll be fun and reliable they said....

That really sucks but I'm coming up on 150,000kms anyway on original wheel bearings so maybe it's time to do all that anyway.

 

How does it drive? It really isn't that bad from a number stand point. Negative camber improves handling. The negative is that it puts more weight on the bearings and will slightly and I mean slightly cause edge wear. I wouldn't worry about it.

 

It drives mostly okay honestly. It wanders a little bit. I'll probably get new spindles and gusset them in the summer.

Anyone know reliable aftermarket options? Been looking at A-premium and Dorman. As well as Toyo steering but they're expensive. OEM is stupid expensive unfortunately.

 

For aftermarket, hit up RC. They do a spindle core swap program where you can order the plated spindle(RC has the best setup, fully boxes but retains sway bar and factory back spacing) and send your factory back once swap’d. ill attach the forum……
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...dles-various-gusset-options-available.541987/

As for gussets, i went with the Marlin Crawler brace kit
https://www.marlincrawler.com/product/lca-frame-brace-2016-2023-tacoma
Pure BEEF

 

I'd assume he's gusseting spindles that have been sent in. Would he even want mine if they're bent? And how does he make sure the ones being sent out aren't bent?

Messaged him on Insta a couple days ago but no reply yet.

 

I would wait for his response on bent spindles, although how does someone verify one is bent without a direct replacement in hand?(besides obv bends) Im sure RC has a way to verify spindles being straight prior to burning in plating, plates wouldn’t mount up flush if the spindle is tweaked at all(that’s all i can think of in regards to verification of the spindle)

 

im a dont touch it if it doesnt need to be touched person. you could drive that truck rest of your life on those bearings you never know. used spindles can be found around. ask a guy that had a 6" lift kit or long travel kit or a 2wd spindle lift guy where they would have removed perfectly good stock spindles

 

True, but I'd be real ticked off if i gotta do the bearings only a couple months after already being in there to do the spindles. With my wheel offset and driving style, and living in the salted roads of BC, Canada.....no, they will not last the life of the truck lol.

 

ran 35" tires with -53 offset for 200k on original bearings in much worse salted roads in newfoundland without issue. they are easily replaceable bolt on bearings. spindle doesn't have to come off at all. start to finish with the right tools you can change the bearings on these trucks in about 20 minutes (each). people often exaggerate with those times but with an impact in hand its easily done.