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Can’t find the right CV axle for my truck (Manual hubs)

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by hwisshack, Sep 19, 2021.

  1. Sep 19, 2021 at 10:01 AM
    #1
    hwisshack

    hwisshack [OP] New Member

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    I’m in the middle of swapping out the CV axles on my truck (04 4x4 v6) and I didn’t realize until I took out the old ones that the new ones I bought won’t work.

    The ones I bought have threads one one end that are for the axle nut, but with the manual hubs on my truck it won’t work.

    It turns out that since my truck has manual locking hubs the CV axles need to have splines on both ends instead of splines on one end and threads on the other.

    The problem I’m having is finding where to buy these parts. Everywhere I’ve checked from this forum and from sites I know only carry the CV axles with the threads for non manual locking hubs. Can anyone help me find the right CV’s?

    Further questions about the repair:
    What kind of grease should I use when installing the new axles?

    Do I need to worry about the little bit of gear oil that leaked when I took the old CV’s out?

    pictures:
    A8D97C47-1855-45AD-AE9B-F2CAAD7E7962.jpg 0549816F-0574-4385-A91E-94A0415EC8E6.jpg

    UPDATE:
    I went on rock auto and found what I think is the right part. I looked at the 2000 model tacoma and it is the same size and spline count as my old ones.
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Sep 19, 2021
    Black DOG Lila likes this.
  2. Sep 19, 2021 at 10:24 AM
    #2
    Kwikvette

    Kwikvette Woke up and chose violence

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    Holy crap, what's with all the videos/pics that aren't able to answer your question?

    Buy reman cv axles, or just reboot your own if that's all they need. Factory/reman are the best choice for these vehicles.

    Just need to find a "free wheel" option, and disregard any "ADD" version.

    If you go to a parts store, just do a manual search and not use your year because manual hubs weren't available at the time.
     
  3. Sep 19, 2021 at 10:27 AM
    #3
    Black DOG Lila

    Black DOG Lila Well-Known Member

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    What he said ∆
     
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  4. Sep 19, 2021 at 10:28 AM
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    Kwikvette

    Kwikvette Woke up and chose violence

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    As for grease, I used Redline grease for manual hubs, and sil glyde for the o-ring-

    20200727_175726.jpg
     
  5. Sep 19, 2021 at 11:05 AM
    #5
    Bivouac

    Bivouac Well-Known Member

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    Remains to be seen I bought the tires and wheels the rest came along
    Another OP bit because someone swapped parts .

    Op did you look at all at the new Axles when you received them??

    We all live and learn I wonder just what else has been changed ?
     
    hwisshack [OP] likes this.
  6. Sep 19, 2021 at 11:19 AM
    #6
    Kwikvette

    Kwikvette Woke up and chose violence

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    Either previous owner did a 4x4 swap if the truck was a Prerunner, and went manual hub, or previous owner went manual hub and got rid of the ADD parts.

    It wasn't until you said this that I noticed it's the OP's first post, meaning he probably just bought his truck.
     
  7. Sep 19, 2021 at 11:42 AM
    #7
    Reh5108

    Reh5108 Well-Known Member

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    Use an older year truck, you're looking for axles without Auto Locking Diff. Rock Auto has them.
     
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  8. Sep 19, 2021 at 11:56 AM
    #8
    zippsub9

    zippsub9 Well-Known Member

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    Shit bolted onto other shit, and junk.
  9. Sep 19, 2021 at 2:13 PM
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    Kwikvette

    Kwikvette Woke up and chose violence

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    @hwisshack

    Do yourself a favor and rebuild your hubs while you're at it.

    Especially if this truck is new to you.

    First things first, you'll want an o-ring as I mentioned above. This deteriorates over time and allows water, dirt, and grime to enter.

    Lubricant for said o-ring; I used Sil-Glyde as shown above found at any Napa Auto parts store.

    Gasket for the hub assembly to the wheel hub; think I bought that at Napa Auto parts as well.

    A quality grease; Redline puts out good quality products so naturally I went to them for the manual hubs.

    Gear oil, as you'll lose some (totally normal) when you pull your CV axle out.

    Last but not least, since you'll have to replenish any gear oil lost, you may as well replace both the fill and drain plugs as they are the dreaded hex-style that easily strip out if you're not careful.

    Seeing as how you got your cv axles out, tells me you're not afraid of getting your hands dirty and figuring stuff out. Just as a precautionary, remove your FILL plug first. Depending on the front diff (if they swapped it out, they're all the same), it'll use a 10mm or 12mm hex.

    Your DRAIN will use a 12mm hex; remove that only once you've pulled your fill. Some have made the mistake of pulling their drain first only to strip out their fill, and not be able to refill their diff.

    Replacement parts for these plugs are 90341-18060 and 90341-24016, fill crush gasket 12157-10010, drain flat gasket 90430-24003.
     
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  10. Sep 19, 2021 at 2:17 PM
    #10
    Kwikvette

    Kwikvette Woke up and chose violence

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    Here are some sources for manual hub parts; I've purchased these parts myself from this very vendor -

    Genuine Toyota® Locking Hub Gaskets - Yotamasters

    Genuine Toyota® Hub Dial O-Ring - Yotamasters

    This spring and detent kit isn't required, but it was necessary for 1 hub I rebuilt. The spring was broken and the ball had fallen out; was nice to have spare parts available when I needed.

    Locking Hub Dial Spring and Detent Kit - Yotamasters

    You can also just buy new hubs as they're directly available from Rockauto; make sure to use the coupon code found in this very forum! Several other vendors offer them as well, part number Aisin FHT019.
     
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  11. Sep 19, 2021 at 4:08 PM
    #11
    hwisshack

    hwisshack [OP] New Member

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    Wow. Thanks for all the info. This is my first truck and I'm new to fixing trucks in general. I think I'll just replace my CV's to get it driving again, then I'll worry about any of the other things you guys mentioned (that was very helpful btw).
    The guy I bought this from had no receipts or knowledge of what was done to it so I'm sure I'll be back asking questions.
     
  12. Sep 19, 2021 at 4:11 PM
    #12
    Bivouac

    Bivouac Well-Known Member

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    Well we tried !! Just trying to save you some frustration

    Best of Luck
     
    hwisshack [OP] likes this.
  13. Sep 19, 2021 at 4:17 PM
    #13
    Kwikvette

    Kwikvette Woke up and chose violence

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    As with any used car, I always suggest replacing any and all maintenance, and otherwise wear-and-tear items which include -

    Upper control arm bushings

    Upper ball joints

    Lower control arm bushings

    Lower ball joints (please us only OEM, part numbers in my signature)

    Steering rack bushings

    Sway bar end links

    Sway bar bushings

    Diff fluids both front and rear

    Transmission fluid

    Transfer case fluid

    Coolant, though I like to leave a cooling system alone unless it's running warmer than it should be or if the coolant looks old

    Radiator cap, thermostat, which goes with the above if you need to replace the coolant; one of those "while I'm doing..."

    Radiator if you have dry coolant on the shroud or engine bay, as the plastic expansion tanks tend to split over time

    Fan clutch, easy to do so why not

    Greasing all zerk fittings

    Exterior bulbs, just to ensure all wiring is good to go and so you don't suddenly have a brake light or signal marker go out and not realize it until too late

    I'm sure I'm forgetting a lot more but just what I can quickly come up with.

    At the top you'll find Mods & Tutorials where you'll find a ton of how-to's with pictures and videos. I suggest going there for all your DIY needs.
     
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  14. Sep 19, 2021 at 4:25 PM
    #14
    hwisshack

    hwisshack [OP] New Member

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    Thanks. While my truck is apart I'll make sure to inspect all those parts to see if they need to be replaced
     

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