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Can’t shift out of park ABS on, trac control on, brake lights don’t work

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by Noreast, Jul 21, 2023.

  1. Jul 21, 2023 at 10:02 PM
    #1
    Noreast

    Noreast [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I attempted to splice my truck cap 3rd brake light into my rear brake lights, saw tons of videos on how to do it seemed simple, & I needed to do it to pass a safety inspection In my state. I did a hack job soldering and never got the brake light to work so I cut out what I touched and used butt connectors to re attach the wires I cut. The codes I’m reading are Master Cylinder Pressure Sensor Zero point High, & Open Circuit in ABS Solenoid Relay Circuit. I can shift out of park using the override button but I still don’t have brake lights. Thx in advance.
     
  2. Jul 21, 2023 at 10:04 PM
    #2
    tcjacado

    tcjacado Well-Known Member

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    @Dm93
    We got another wiring issue
     
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  3. Jul 21, 2023 at 10:06 PM
    #3
    Noreast

    Noreast [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Fuses are good, stoplight switch got replaced anyway. But something ain’t right. Truck drives fine otherwise.
     
  4. Jul 21, 2023 at 10:06 PM
    #4
    tommyboyskrrt

    tommyboyskrrt Well-Known Member

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    My man there are so many questions to ask. For starters, let's see some pictures of ALL the wiring you touched.
     
  5. Jul 21, 2023 at 10:06 PM
    #5
    Dm93

    Dm93 Test Don't Guess

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    Check your STOP Fuse (10A) in the engine compartment fuse box and IG1 Fuse (10A) in the interior fuse box.
     
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  6. Jul 21, 2023 at 10:10 PM
    #6
    tommyboyskrrt

    tommyboyskrrt Well-Known Member

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    You should be able to verify that the "butt splice" connections you made are good by testing continuity from the other tail light for the hot wire. The ground wire can obviously be tested using almost any metal source on the truck.
     
  7. Jul 21, 2023 at 10:41 PM
    #7
    Noreast

    Noreast [OP] Well-Known Member

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    spliced on the black and white top left on the pin(ground) and spliced on the blue(brake) bottom left. The green was cut but not spliced.

    IMG_4215.jpg
     
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  8. Jul 21, 2023 at 10:44 PM
    #8
    tommyboyskrrt

    tommyboyskrrt Well-Known Member

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    These are solder centered heat shrink? Your connections look good, honestly. Verify continuity and then explore other options. If continuity is fine among all of these (I posted on how to test the hots, and grounds), your problem is elsewhere.

    I'd vote the guy below me is most likely culprit, you probably arced something during makeup of the wires. (Not being insulting, I'm an electrician by trade and do it all the time...) And blew a fuse.
     
  9. Jul 21, 2023 at 10:45 PM
    #9
    Dm93

    Dm93 Test Don't Guess

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    Have you checked the 2 fuses I mentioned above?
     

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  10. Jul 21, 2023 at 10:49 PM
    #10
    Noreast

    Noreast [OP] Well-Known Member

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    IT WAS A BLOWN STOP 10A fuse!!!! You are the man Sir! Bravo
     
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  11. Jul 22, 2023 at 7:05 AM
    #11
    tacobp

    tacobp Well-Known Member

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    Installed a Pop n Lock,,That's it !..Bone stock
    Another successful outcome !
     
  12. Jul 22, 2023 at 7:22 AM
    #12
    rtkbowhunter

    rtkbowhunter Well-Known Member

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    Yup blown fuse in eng compartment. Wired my topper. Removed it for a load of mulch. Harness shorted on bed frame rail. Found the solution on this wonderful forum.
     
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  13. Jul 22, 2023 at 7:47 AM
    #13
    OKJC

    OKJC Well-Known Member

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    100% the brake switch behind the pedal.

    Pop out the cover by the shifter to drive in the meantime, but keep in mind you won't have brake lights.

    I went through this maybe 8 years ago and haven't thought about it since then, but I'm pretty confident that is your problem.

    Edit; I see you found a different solve, but keep this in mind because I had the exact same symptoms.
     

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