Can a 3rd gen with tow package 3.5l V6 automatic tow a car?

People brag about it but in reality, they are idiots.

 

To answer your question OP, it sounds like you'll be sitting at about 5k lbs with the car and trailer. That shouldn't cause any issues. Just make sure you've got trailer brakes, the car properly loaded and secured, and your tires are all at the correct pressure. The leading cause of trailer tire blowouts is underinflated tires causing them to build up excessive heat.

 

I towed a '77 Celica on a U-Haul car trailer a couple of times with 2nd gens. The U-Haul has surge brakes. Loaded trailer was probably right around 5K lbs. It did fine, but probably not something I would do all the time.

 

No problems, even with (apparently) a blown U-joint. Found the blown U joint last night, whoops. Drove just fine at 65 mph through the Missouri hills - I wasn't in a rush.

Dumb Avalon had a P0302 code, which I could've fixed by driving to O'Reilly just 7 miles away but I thought we were out of oil (don't ask). Stopped by Autozone on the way home and got the code, picked up a new ignition coil, and was in business that night.

Guess I should keep a code reader in the car... Probably help lol

 

Adding a brake controller/trailer brakes really makes things safe and nicer to tow in general. Having said that, I've towed a number of cars on uhaul trailers with surge brakes without issue. I'm also assuming that you already know that when towing you don't go the same speed as when not, unlike the diesel guys around here who don't seem to think the laws of physics apply to them.

 

In Texas you only need them above a trailer gross weight of 4500lbs. So I don’t need them. I’ve towed probably 25,000 miles with my current Taco and I have never been in a situation where I needed more braking than Tacoma alone provides (at least with my aluminum trailer). I don’t put myself in situations that require me to stop like a racecar and I always have an escape path.

 

Hey, you do you, I just can't wrap my head around it. When towing my empty 2500lb trailer in my tundra and I haven't dialed in the gain yet, I can still feel that thing pushing me. That's why I couldn't imagine more weight on a smaller truck and zero braking on the trailer's side.

ETA: The manual states anything over 1,000 lbs should have trailer brakes. Just sharing for posterity.

 

Towing capacity ratings in the US are horribly underestimated. In Europe the tow ratings are much more reasonable. It’s common place to see sub 3000lb passenger cars pulling campers that people as scared to pull with their tacos here lol.

 

I disagree 100%.

 

Since OP got his answer and the thread is devolving anyways, here goes.

Potentially unpopular opinion: It should be a requirement to have an endorsement on your driver's license to tow any trailer, ever. Similar to a motorcycle endorsement, you should be required to take a course to learn about trailer safety and get hands-on learning about hooking up, pulling, and backing up a trailer. Then a written test at the DMV. It would help curb a lot of the ridiculous shit you see on the roads in my opinion.

 

What do you think

This would stop people like Opel pulling a 12k load with a Tacoma. I can' even say enough how stupid that is.

 

Maybe not, but it would be another thing to charge offenders with in case of accidents due to their negligence. Hold people more accountable.

 

I get it. I don’t feel that too much on my mine under 3500lbs. In the end you need to do whatever you are comfortable with.
I like finding limits. I’ve been building a hitch for my Opel so I can pull the same load with it. (I’m a structural engineer) it’s strong enough for 50mph panic stops currently as tested. But I need to add more supports to actually put another car on it.

 

12k was pulled on dirt county roads (except for a small stretch of FM road to the barn). You do what you got to do. Nobody was at risk.

 

Heck, I love seeing cars tow cars....

 

I like to listen to the limits already found by teams of engineers with millions of dollars backing them on R&D.

 

Someone here tows a Fox Mustang for the UT sports car club (or whatever it is called). I wouldn’t go long distance or over mountains, but would locally.

 

The problem is I do that for work so I know how ridiculous the safety factors are.

 

Check your owners manual for your model tow specs. If you have a 4x4 double cab it will probably be between 6300-6500lbs towing. This is the max and only if you have all your cargo in the trailer and no passengers. Also, if you have larger than stock tires, your tow capacity will be even lower because those tires will reduce your available torque. You can try the max weight as long as you have a WD hitch and drive slowly like 55-60mph and I would recommend 4th gear, no AC and remove all unnecessary weight from your truck and put all cargo on the trailer. If going up steep grades, put your vehicle in 2nd or 3rd gear and put your flashers below 45mph and take your time. Let the truck work. You don’t need to push the truck hard on grades. Doing 80mph pulling heavy uphill is delusional thinking, not even the most powerful semis can drive this fast uphill with decent loads.

 

I think that's a great suggestion.

I have a "M" endorsement on my DL but haven't ridden in quite some time...and it wouldn't hurt to take the MSF course as refresher.

I've used my Harbor Freight trailer on my Taco for furniture moves...nothing over 500lbs so no trailer brakes needed.

One thing I can't get the hang of is reversing with a trailer! That process is so annoying even after it was explained to me how to steer. lol

Yes, aligning/setting the tongue and plugging in the connection isn't too much of a hassle...but the other responsibilities such as towing capacity, speed regulation, tire pressures, light checks and various other safety concerns should be on a checklist.

Whenever I see trailers being pulled, I look at key areas and see if there's anything out of the ordinary. I haven't had to tell anyone their load was unsafe...so there's that!