Can I use a marine (1-both-2-off) switch to create a dual battery system?

I was going to install a dual battery system in my new-to-me 2004 taco by slaping one of these through the firewall or even under the hood:

A simple marine switch like most every boat i owned has had. and 3 vehicles has had...
Then when looking for confirmation of my plan on tacoworld i see no one doing this. Everyone has fancy electric controllers for dual batteries. I feel like a caveman:

"WHAT THOSE SHINY BLINKY BLINKY THINGS ON ALL YOUR TRUCKS? "
"WHY YOU NO LIKE BIG RED BOAT SWITCH?"

Are the computers in my 2004 tacoma going to be fried if i just wire the batteries with a marine switch? I figured '04 was old enough.

I have not read EVERY thread on dual batteries here but, I read many. I fear that you will respond "it goes without saying" Perhaps i am an old caveman but i purchased a gen 1 partly because i wanted to avoid all the annoying computers on the gen2 and gen3. 1-both-2-off switches are simple.

------------------------------EDIT-----------------------------------

Dont bother posting here. This conversation got picked up here:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-batterys-thread.295653/page-66#post-13254037
and in the posts that follow

 

Truck boat what's the difference? It will work for 2 batteries in a truck but remember all memory leads need to go to the battery before switch or lose all your memory.ps should run a infuse to memory wires just in case of a overload.why do you want or need dually batts?

 

Thanks.
I gave up on this thread and posted here:https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-batterys-thread.295653/page-66#post-13254037
so i hate to take up extra space but i could not delete this thread, thanks for responding.

Unfortunately a child mandated purchase of a 4 door. I disliked the gen2 and gen3s. The gen1 4 door was only automatic. This means i can not clutch start or even change gears when a bat is dead. Running only on one batt but keeping the other charged (switching 1 to 2 every couple days) worked well in the past. If 1 died, 2 was left unused and ready to start the car. The ability to use "both" for extra amps when winching, using the ham radio or running power to the cabover camper is also ideal. But mostly a simple backup.

 

Please explain.... arnt all circuits and memory on the car already on a fuse.

 

Yes minus your extras.Just making sure.

 

No reason the switch won't work. It's only "claim to fame" is NO exposed spark since they are intended for the bilge area where gas fumes can accumulate. Not exactly an issue in a truck. Make sure what you choose can stand the current the starter will draw.

 

I like this idea, if I'm understanding this marine device correctly. You just have to remember to manually switch from '1' to '1+2' occasionally.
The simplicity of this appeals to me. ( I also like manual locking 4x4 hubs for the same reason ).

Another advantage: if you develop a parasitic draw, setting it to 'Off' while parked sure beats
disconnecting the battery, until you can track down the reason for the draw.

 

Yes, that is why i like it. I have used it on small sailboats and motorboats for years. We had a pair of old vans at a summer camp that i worked at which were frequently dead after 1 week of no use. Groups of kids would get stranded at backpacking trailheads without food. So the maintenance man and i did this to them and we never had a problem again. Since you can turn off the battery while hiking it is 2 times as useful as those jumper kits, and way safer as it is not rolling around in the cab.

I am glad the folks on this forum [EDIT: see link below] say it is safe to ignore the claims that switching from 1 to both to 2 while running will fry computer controlled systems. But my disclaimer is the companies making more complex chargers claim there is a risk. See the video above [EDIT: below] from the pirana sales man.

I have yet to ensure one can use a deep cycle as batt 2 and a normal as bat 1, but i think that is addressed in the link to the pirate 4x4 writeup linked above [EDIT:below]. I pan to use it only to maintain a second backup batt. I no electric accessories in my camper aside from a ham radio and a winch (only needed in emergencies).

I do hear that accidentally switching to 'off' while running is bad, but so is tripping the solenoids in a configuration that turns off both batteries while running. If anyone can confirm what damage might occur to the truck when switching to off I would love to hear it.

If you find a good place to locate it please post here. I found my firewall to be very busy and i do not want the "full juice" cables in the cab.

(YEAH Tan4x4, I also like hub locks!! and i hate electric windows, electric locks, electric seat adjusters, servo actuated vents, and all that other overly complex crap. I hate automatic trannies. Heck i wish we had hand crank spring starters on our truck. These chip keys and even keyless keys are clearly designed by people who live a 100% urbanist sheltered life... but i digress...)

 

ooops. those links are not here. they are on a different thread. I posted here first and then jumped on the other thread due to impatience.

topic discussed here also and the posts that follow for 2 pages:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-batterys-thread.295653/page-66#post-13254037

video of a salesman claiming it is bad, debunked by the tacoworld members at the link above:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BsQyxe4rtgA

link to pirate 4x4 write up that i found after making this original post. correspondence at the bottom is with a battery guru from the marine industry:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/dual_battery/my_dual_battery_setup.htm