Can my powdercoat be painted over or does it need a complete recoat?

I recently bought some satin black Restoleum, is it worth a go or is a patch this big just going to ultimately need re-powdercoated? I'd probably need to scrape off the entire portion that's speckled since I presume that's not far from flaking off as well.



Only about 1.5 years of gravel road driving. Surprisingly the other side is totally fine.

 

I would tape off the area and paint it. If it works then it works. If not then you will just have to pay up to get it re powder coated. Or just bed liner the whole thing

 

Ya, crossing my fingers it works. Removing the whole bumper and having it off for a few weeks would be a huge pain.

 

Maybe I should put my mud flaps back on lol.

 

Technically, yes. Powder can lay over powder providing profile is introduced ( sanding ). However, what’s below it is your problem. The surface underneath is oxidize and that must be removed. Since a profile of 50 microns can’t be achieved with tool grinding ( SSPC- SP2 ) ( its too smooth vs blasting ) ... take the advice of painting over it with a matched aerosol spray paint. Krylons BBQ high heat black is a great match for Satin Black. Just remember to take down the oxidation close to white metal, tape and mask a clean “line to line “ and apply light coats and build it up with a couple of coats.


You’ll love the results

 

Recoat. The rattle can is not nearly as UV stable as even the most basic powder and it will become quickly apparent enter a few months in the sun. This is why powder is a bad choice for armor or something intended to get beaten. LINEX is a nice option, or any of those liner mixes since it can be applied without completely stripping everything to bare metal and they are nation wide for matching color or application down the road. They can also touch back up small scuffs or redust the whole bumper.

 

Most powder coating failures are due to inadequate washing, prep, and baking. If the powder coat is breached, most times corrosion forms underneath and lifting occurs. It can be powder coated again only if all the existing defects are removed. An item can be PC'd up to 3 times, then we scrap it.

Spot painting the bumper might be your best option now providing you prep the area properly.....

 

I would sand that down and feather the edges asap, weather permitting, and hit it ,neatly,with anti-rust primer and satin black rustoleum brush paint at least until spring. Rust creeps under powder coating as there is no primer under it. When you pick off the flaking coating it is wet underneath. When the weather is better you can do a permanent job. We have outdoor furniture from Sears that is two years old. The powder coat finish is already bubbling in spots from rust underneath.

 

Thanks for the advice everyone. I’m going to do a temporary job with the rustoleum I have today (it’ll be right at 32-33 degrees this afternoom) and redo in the Spring. I can’t grasp why it’s only this side, perhaps something about the nature of the gravel in the middle of the road vs the shoulder. I’ll clear the entire faded area down to bare metal.

 

I would the very least use a rust removal wheel drill attachment to affected area, spay with rust convertor, and lightly sand the whole bumper and rattlecan the whole bumper with krylon satin black to avoid having mismatched color spots.

 

It could be several reasons. You didn't see the condition of the bare bumper prior to powder coating. I see all sorts of conditions - spotty rust, oil coated, oil impregnated, substance contamination etc., etc.. All could contribute to this condition. Improper washing and titration that is outside of the acceptable range during the phosphatizing/wash process could be a contributor. Hard to pinpoint without a mil test and acetone test and then DAing the areas effected to see what they can tell....

 

Alright, I know it's not pretty but I'll see how it holds up and probably plan to do the entire side this spring.

 

Try flat black.

 

Lol ya, I remember reading a post by a Pelfrey employee that said they found Rustoleum Satin Black to be a good match. I'm assuming it'll fade to match a tad better and maybe wasn't still 100% dry at the time of the photo.

 

Just paint the whole panel, you won’t be able to tell the difference between the powdercoated rear and the painted panel (Rustoleum Satin Black. I’m judging by this pic.

 

Ya I'll just live with the mismatched patch for now until I have a warm day some weekend.

 

Bumper is rusting again and in more spots. Can some kind of rust neutralizer be put down and then painted over with something like the satin black rustoleum I originally used?

 

Need to knock off the rust scales .In 1st pick were rust is kind of blackish try knocking it with a pic hammer or even screw driver blade .Will knock some scale off and metal will be pitted were scales come off .Nothing you can do about it .Need to knock off all rust scales to fix properly. treat with something like osphos before top coating .

Only way to fix rust is to remove it all If you grind it smooth and theres still rust scales and you paint over it ,it will keep rusting below rust scales getting deeper . My old job was by the ocean and one guy use to just grind down put rust treatment and paint .After 6 months or so paint would be bubbled up .Knock it down with a needle gun and find some nice holes .

That being said most people wont have a needle gun sand blasting and such .Just knock off as much rust as you can and treat and paint . See rust again do it over . Rust never sleeps . Rust sucks lol...

 

I looked at the outdoor furniture I mentioned in my December post. It is peeling terribly, worse than it was then. The powder coat is coming off in big pieces.

Have you contacted the manufacturer? I got in touch with Lazy - Boy and after I sent a few pictures, they refunded almost all of the cost (about $800.00). The furniture was within the two year warranty period, 18 months old. I had the receipt. The now bare metal is pitted/flaking badly and will rust through within a few more months.

You will have to remove the bumper, strip it clean, metal condition it, prime and paint, a big job. If you leave any powder coat it will peel there eventually. Water creeps under the powder coat and rusts, lifting it off in big pieces, letting more water in and extending the damage without end.

 

www.monstaliner.com

Pull the bumper, prep it well, use their encapsulator, then roll it with your color of choice