Can these be buffed out?

Long story short had something on my bumper that would only come off with a good scrubbing. Apparently the sponge I used was too rough and marked up my bumper.

Can I buff these out myself?
Would a detailing shop be able to?
Or would this require a new paint job...

Thanks in advance

 

meguires Scratch X

 

I wouldn't get a new paint job, if you have the equipment you could probably get it out, it looks only to be the clear coat.

here's the steps
wash with soap (get rid of all wax and grease)
clay bar (gets all other contaminates off paint)
with a random orbital buffer try polish first, if that doesn't work try a compound on the lighter end, then polish/wax
if compound doesn't work you can attempt to wet sand at a fine grit, then compound/polish/wax

or since its hard to tell from the pic how deep it actually is, wax might be able to cover it up.

 

^^What he said. And... remember that Clear coat is about the thickness of a post-it note. I wouldn't repaint. I'd simply try to improve it. I think you could clean that up no problem with a DA polisher (or take it to a shop).

Rule of thumb regarding scratches: If you can catch/feel the scratch(s) with your fingernail, you may want to aim for improvement rather than 100% correction. If you can feel it with your fingernail, it may too deep to try to remove without buffing through the clear coat. On that particular spot, you're going to want to watch the raised panel lines (edges), where polishers tend to focus their energy.

Your damage sounds more like micro-marring/hazing as opposed to isolated scratches.

Griots Garage 6" dual action polisher is a great machine for a beginner. AG runs a lot of sales, so check in frequently and you can usually get the machines a little cheaper. Thin pads are most effective (i like lake country thin pros and Griots boss pads). AG also offers a lot of polisher kits. Meguiars Ultimate Compound and Polish are readily available and great products.

 

I like meguiars too, they do a ton of testing

check out this video> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z63QAlLMgSM

Larry is a profesional detailer and is really good at explaining in depth how to work with paint and all around detailing cars. Me and my buddy do it in the off season and I learn most things from him.

remember to always use a microfiber towel and dry in straight lines now circles

 

Who did you hit?

 

If you don't have a DA Polisher try using a hand buffing pad and A cheap polish.

MAKE SURE TO WASH AND CLAY BAR FIRST!

 

If it were my truck I would NOT buff it or even have it done. There are too many edges that the buffer can "burn" though the paint on. I would try Meguire's cleaner wax before anything else. It has a very light abrasive in it and will most likely clean it up to the point that you'll not notice it.

 

DA polisher shouldn't burn through the paint. Wouldn't bother me to run a porter cable over it if it was my truck. That should clean up fairly well since the abrasion doesn't look that heavy. Probably going to need something better than a cleaner wax like maybe a finishing polish.

 

A DA and M205 should improve it greatly!

 

Judging by the way OP phrased the question, I'd say he's not experienced with a buffer which is why I suggested the cleaner wax. It's forgiving and can be done multiple times to achieve the desired / acceptable finish. Toyota paint is very thin and easy to buff through, especially near body lines.

 

Agreed but running a PC over it would take a while to burn through it. Not talking a rotary that would burn through in no time. Definitely does not a repaint. Better off taking to a reputable detailer.

Judging from the first part I am guessing OP used a scotch brite pad or something similar.

 

Definetly can buff that out with a DA (will not burn paint)
Clay while washing, use a polish like Menzerna intensive polish with an orange pad.
Use a sealant like Klasse if you choose as well. That stuff can be layered with carnauba or polys for a ridiculous shine.

 

I have not found that Toyota paint is easy to burn through with a DA Polisher. I do have white though which is not a clear coated color. This might make a difference.

I actually have been shocked its held up so well to my ameatur detailing work haha!

DA Polishers slow down considerably with too much pressure and curves. Plus modern day pads are designed to vent heat.

 

Thanks everyone for your help! I actually grazed a pole while trying to park at my apartment... freaked out grabbed a sponge and here I am lol. Last time I do that.

Anyways, y'all are correct I have now experience with detailing/polish/compounds or anything of the sort.

I guess what I need to figure out is it worth buying some of the products to do myself... or does a detailing shop do these kind of touch ups as well?

Thanks again

 

if you can afford the equipment and materials, it will be worth it in the long run for sure. I still have the same porter cable 7424 polisher i had when i ran my detailing business back in college. if you like to keep your trucks finish well maintained it may be worth it over time for you to spend a couple hundy.
A detail shop may run you $100+ easy.

 

when all else fails

 

to echo another poster... yep, if you think you might enjoy "working" on your paint, applying waxes/sealants in the future, I'd certainly invest your $$ in the equipment. That's not a big job you have there if you know what you're doing.

If not, then I'd prob go the easy route and take it to a shop. If they know what they're doing, it would be a very quick fix. Just keep in mind that there are a lot of hack detailers out there (also a lot of good ones, just use discretion).

Seriously, spend an hour on the autogeek forum and you'll learn a ton. If you're interested in learning more, get an AG forum account and start browsing. TONS of how-to articles, videos, and awesome instruction.

You could just get a coupla foam pads at an auto parts store, along with a bottle of scratchX, and see what improvement you can make. Just keep in mind- you CAN wear through clear by hand, too. Many will say the risk is less with a DA than by hand, due to such focused pressure with fingers. Key is to sort of "palm" the pad and make sure you're spreading pressure evenly. There's definitely and art to it. Another tip- less product can be more effective than more product.

 

Based upon that. Take it to a detail shop. Sponge is not correct tool for grazing a pole. Lol

 

I worked in a detail shop back in high school and a solid rule of thumb we told customers that would ask that is " if you can't feel it running your finger nail back and forth across the scratch it should buff out." That bedding said depending on the wax coat condition of clear coat etc deeper ones may be able to be worked out.