Can you make it to 400,000? 3.4l V6 FSM

I got mine at advanced auto parts for 155.00 or so.
Plug and play,

 

ScanGauge Digital Trip Monitor SG2?

 

Yup

 

Here, mine fit perfectly in the pocket under the Radio.
Drilled a hole in the back and feed wires through

 

I like to run my vehicles through the dealership occasionally so they can eyeball everything and point out anything that might be amiss. I'll get an oil change as well. When they do it on the Tacoma (220k mi) they use 5W20 synthetic (Toyota brand). Details pasted below from an ebay listing. My 80 series Land Cruiser (223k mi) eats oil and they recommended a rebuild. I asked about using heavier oil and they said sure, you could go up to 20W50 and that's a synthetic blend. Still eats oil but much less. I'm sure a rebuild is in my not too distant future.

I've just purchased the Ultragauge to monitor temps rather than the SG2 but haven't installed it in the 80 yet (the Tacoma doesn't have temp issues). But I held off as long as I could as I'm sure I'll just be obsessing over every 2-3 degree change in temp. Anyone used the Ultragauge in a Tacoma?

 

well that fits very nicely!
Im exited to get one and see all of those different gauge readings.

 

http://www.upmpg.com/tech_articles/motoroil_viscosity/
good info on oil that I was personally unaware of, good to know.

After doing a little bit more research, I think my next oil change I'm gonna be going to 5w40 which should give me better cold oil operation when its cold outside, but from what I can gather the 40 is the thickness of the oil at engine operating temp, correct? 10w40 isn't 'thicker' than 5w40 they both perform the 'same' in a warmed up engine. I just learned that the first number is referring to the low outside temperatures that the oil is best suited for.

5w40 is better for colder outside temps than 10w40, I found that article at the top of this comment that explains a lot about oil weight. any confirming info? I don't want to be operating on unfounded anecdotes when it comes to my engine. That article seems to have good info.
I still think im gonna stick with the 40 but I WAS under the impression that 10w40 and 5w40 were different "thicknesses" but according to this article...
(paraphrase) they both operate the 'same' under warm running engine conditions, but they will operate differently at cold temps when the oil is cold, 5w will be better for colder temps than 10w. 10w apparently is good down to 50 degrees F in winter temps. It gets much colder than that in CO. So ill be going to 5w40 which will give me the same high temp operation but a little better for when Im starting her up cold in the winter.... this is what I have gathered doing a little bit more research about oil weight. Does this sound correct or am I misunderstanding....


I run Castrol GTX 10w40 right now. If they make a 5w40 ill switch to that next change.
Thoughts?

 

Edit; Relevant quote
Edit; grammar
I'll say it to myself, thats probably, most likely bullshit...synthetics were created and improved because we needed different lubrication properties once the engines became more advanced with more moving parts....there is probably no foundation for me to say that synthetics are not as good, if not better than.

"In fact, to ensure its vehicles receive the best protection, Corvette requires the use of synthetic motor oil in its engines. Other high performance vehicle manufacturers have followed suit, and even General Motors, Ford and Chrysler require synthetic lubricants for certain vehicle components. The vehicles of the future will continue to have smaller engines, lower emission requirements, higher performance characteristics and better fuel economy, and they will require lubrication quality only a synthetic can offer."
http://www.upmpg.com/motor_oil_rate_gas.htm

So ya its best not to listen to anecdotes. Im probably gonna go with Castrol GTX ultra clean 5w40 which is a partial synthetic after reading up on it.

 

96 FSM recommends 5w30, im gonna go with 5w40, better cold performance, slightly thicker oil than 30.

 

This was after 20 min of driving, no highway. Its a little chilly this morning, driving her with a lead foot, and shifting at 4,000rpm from the get go downshifting a lot, didn't hit 1/2 temp, but usually it will go up to 1/2 for a while then drop down to where it is in this picture. Im sitting in the driveway, that is where i'm idling at, always, if i've been driving around all day and its been really warmed up it will go down 200rpm from where this picture is.

When I first started her up this morning rpms hit almost 1750, and wihin 30 sec. was down to 1500, then by the time I was on the main road a half mile away, 1250 and remained there the rest of my 20 min drive....
Edit:
scan gauge time to make sure gauges aren't inroccrect.

 

I'm at 250k now (bought at 190k already supercharged). Rebuilt the S/C at Magnuson, replaced timing belt, water pump etc, the standard stuff but curious about what should be next, such as a valve shim job maybe? My auto trans might need some tlc as well but the local trans shop is shocked the oe trans is still going (installed a huge Hayden early on so maybe that helped).

 

Hello Lynn.
You're not going to find many people recommending going to a lighter oil than the factory recommended spec (5w-30) regardless of whatever your dealership chooses to use, it is the wrong oil. Now it is common for oil manufactuers to "Back spec" oils in instances where viscosity ranges include the previous spec. Such as an 0w-30 meeting the specifications of a 5w-30. Rarely do manufacters do this unless there have been specific issues related to thin oil (the Eco Diesel dodges come to mind going from a 5w-30 to a 5w-40).
Anyways, Please go back to a 5w-30. Especially in Texas. You dont need the cold weather pumpability in Texas. Your dealer is either Lazy, Stupid or trying to pawn the well being of your truck for them trying to clear out old 5w-20 anyways (Now that the newer trucks spec 0w-20). The screenshot you posted Specifically states the oil is only to be used in vehicles which are specified for 5w-20. Your 3.4L is not one of these vehicles. Especially since it advertised the oil being "Slippery" for increased MPG which is laughable.

Now how would you describe the Land Cruiser eating oil? - How much vs How long? Simply running a thicker oil to reduce consumption isn't always the best option.

Ultraguage is nice, enjoy.

 

I've been very happy runing 0w-40 Pennzoil in my 3.4L. I switch to a 0w-30 in the "winter" .

You will find very little difference between a 0w oil and a 10w oil other than the basestocks/ Group synthetics used. In order to thin the multi viscosity oils down to the "0" range, better quality (Group 4+ Synthetics) base stocks are used. One reason why I always recommend getting a 0w-20 verses a 5w-20. Its going to be a "better" oil.

I cant stand Castrol products (Bottom of the barrel as im concerned but they work well in some vehicles and I dont try to push people away from using them) but any 40 weight Synthetic should work for your application. If it's cold where you live, consider a 0w-30. You probably dont need the added protection of a 40 weight during the winter.

 

Yeah - I thought the increased mpg claim was a little over the top. I realize 5W30 is the spec for the truck but (with my limited knowledge on the subject) I just figured things change with new information and if anyone knows what oil to put in the truck it should be the dealership. I doubted they would do anything to risk some type of claim against them for using the wrong oil. However, having said all that, I looked back through the service details on both vehicles (Toyota online thing) and every time they've done an oil change they use the same p/n which is that 5W20 I pasted the details on above. I'm thinking it may well be laziness at the data entry point and just always picking the same p/n to plug into the computer!

On the 80 I know I should but I have not tracked how often or how much I need to add. I don't drive it very often at all and I just carry a couple quarts in the back and check oil occasionally and top up when needed. In my mind things are just old and wearing out on the inside and the thicker oil helps to fill the gaps so to speak. It's a band aid until I either get it rebuilt as pm or until the HG goes and I'm forced to get it rebuilt.

 

Interesting you can’t stand castrol, why So? I’m not particularly set on castrol or anything, there’s no particular reason I use it as opposed to another brand but I seem to have good luck with it and as a creature of habit have kept wth it. is there a particular reason you go with penzoil?

I rarely pay attention to mileage on my oil I pay attention to the color that I see on my dip stick... and my oil is in really good shape for a long time, but I’ve just gotten into the habit of documenting my work so I’m not exactly sure when I last did the oil. I have to top her off once a month no more than half a quart at worst, but I have a shitty gasket on my oil pan and haven’t gotten to pulling the pan and getting a new gasket, but I’m confident I’m not burning oil.

 

I think someone else mentioned this also but your Tacoma FSM likely recommends 5w30, I would not use anything thinner than 30. Depending on your climate, the colder the weather, the lower the “w” of the oil you should get, but never use anything less than 30.

 

It was the rear ujoint, he points at it in the first minute or two of this vid. I had never replaced one before but it was easier than I thought it would be.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oUjkc8KsJAs

 

Personal Preference regarding castrol. I'm glad you like it, its a good modern synthetic. Pennzoil runs rebates more often and if I have to spend more than $3.00 on a quart I probably wont buy it. I do have a big oil stash so I can afford to be picky.

There is a lot more to the oil story than just color on a dipstick but I dont lose sleep over it, especially with the 3.4L. Not many engines out there are easier on oil than these ones.

 

No worries friend.

There is a difference between 5w-30 and 5w-20. If you used your hard earned money to purchase a service from this business, I would demand they use an oil which is spec'd by Toyota Factory. If there is a Technical Service Bulitin which states that 5w-20 is now an allowed oil then they need to present that to you (and it would be news on Tacomaworld).

Try rotella 15w-40 or Valvoline Maxlife 10w-40 in the landcruiser. They are not nearly as thick as a 20w-50 and have high film strength and seem to rejuvenate seals nicely (Not marketing, first hand experience).

 

Right on!

Ya I was told about Blackstone laboratories earlier on this thread, I requested some oil sample kits and im waiting for them now. Considering its fairly cheap for the oil analyzation I figured I would do it and that way I know for sure the condition of my engine or at least a good idea of the condition. I didn't know this was a thing before

^^^thanks Bartmaster1234

The color is really just a rule of thumb for me, and I don't put any crazy kinds of miles on my oil or anything, but like you said i've noticed the 3.4 is really easy on the oil.