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Can't disengage from 4H to 2H

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by BirdPerson42, Jun 9, 2020.

  1. Jun 9, 2020 at 2:22 PM
    #1
    BirdPerson42

    BirdPerson42 [OP] Member

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    I have a 2008 TRD offroad. I did some mudding and after pulling out switched from 4L to 4H drove it. Then went to put in in 2H and it just blinks. I can still get I to 4L. I've checked the fuse and I can here the t case actuator when I switch it. But nada. I drove a good 2 miles to see if it would just come back. And nothing. Any ideas what it could be?
     
  2. Jun 9, 2020 at 2:25 PM
    #2
    wheeliest

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    NO SWAYBAR, Spacer lift with dirty4's
    when mine does this shit, i pull the fuse under the dash on the drivers side for the 4wd stuff & plug it back in, start the truck and slap it in N fast and turn the switch to 4H fast and whala.
     
  3. Jun 9, 2020 at 2:28 PM
    #3
    BirdPerson42

    BirdPerson42 [OP] Member

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    I'm in a manual so I'm already sitting in neutral but I'll give it a shot.
     
    wheeliest[QUOTED] likes this.
  4. Jun 9, 2020 at 2:29 PM
    #4
    BirdPerson42

    BirdPerson42 [OP] Member

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    Also I'm trying to get into 2H
     
  5. Jun 9, 2020 at 2:30 PM
    #5
    wheeliest

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    NO SWAYBAR, Spacer lift with dirty4's
    under stood, but the truck doesn't like jumping from one extreme to the other.
     
  6. Jun 9, 2020 at 2:32 PM
    #6
    BirdPerson42

    BirdPerson42 [OP] Member

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    I gave it a shot and same result. Dash is still blinking like it's trying to disengage. Rolled it back and forth a few times. And nothing
     
  7. Jun 9, 2020 at 2:34 PM
    #7
    wheeliest

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    NO SWAYBAR, Spacer lift with dirty4's
    You may have to plug the fuse in while it's running. The trick is to beat the ECU from fighting you.
     
  8. Jun 9, 2020 at 2:43 PM
    #8
    BirdPerson42

    BirdPerson42 [OP] Member

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    I just tried every combo include unhooking the battery and still nothing. I'm thinking a harness is loose somewhere
     
  9. Jun 9, 2020 at 2:46 PM
    #9
    wheeliest

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    NO SWAYBAR, Spacer lift with dirty4's
    There are multiple issues that cause that and one is the harness/plug on the 4wd switch coming loose .
     
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  10. Jun 9, 2020 at 2:47 PM
    #10
    coopcooper

    coopcooper certified youtube mechanic

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    mine did that once, I beat the shit out the actuator on the tcase and boom, fixed.
     
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  11. Jun 9, 2020 at 2:58 PM
    #11
    BirdPerson42

    BirdPerson42 [OP] Member

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    I can hear my t case actuator plus I can still get into 4L no problem. Once I'm ganna wait till a less wet day and check harnesses and see if the front dif actuator solder points have come off. Last resort. But I'll give beating the tcase a shot. Haha
     
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  12. Jun 9, 2020 at 3:02 PM
    #12
    wheeliest

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    NO SWAYBAR, Spacer lift with dirty4's
  13. Jun 9, 2020 at 3:40 PM
    #13
    TnShooter

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    Im going with Front Diff Actuator.
    My last resort would be pulling the Actuator and physically putting it in 2WD.
    At least you can drive your truck until it’s fixed.

    See post #8 and #10 here for settings.
    https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...uator-or-t-case-actuator.358059/#post-9674854
     
  14. Jun 9, 2020 at 4:05 PM
    #14
    BirdPerson42

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    I'll have to look at that while I'm down there. Unfortunately the switch being loose wasn't my issue.
     
  15. Jun 9, 2020 at 5:10 PM
    #15
    winkel

    winkel Well-Known Member

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    Are you holding the clutch all the way to the floor when you shift out of 4 Lo?
     
  16. Jun 10, 2020 at 2:35 AM
    #16
    BirdPerson42

    BirdPerson42 [OP] Member

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    Yes, like I said going from 4L to 4H is no issue. Clutch pinned to the floor for all switches.
     
  17. Jun 10, 2020 at 7:15 AM
    #17
    Bajatacoma

    Bajatacoma Well-Known Member

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    The electronic 4wd systems on these trucks really is crap; never any issues with my old Tacoma's manual transfer case but I've had a couple of issues with the new system, the last time being failure to go into 4Lo. I've long held that if someone is too stupid or lazy to operate a simple manual lever then they really ought to stick to 2wd or sedans.
    :anonymous:
     
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  18. Jun 13, 2020 at 3:52 PM
    #18
    BirdPerson42

    BirdPerson42 [OP] Member

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    I pulled the actuator, looked good. Tested the motor and it works fine. Soldered the joints just in case ant tested the terminals. Works great. Made sure that the sleeve and the c part of the actuator line up. Sealed the gasket blah blah. Turned it on and now it just blinks. No 4 wheel. But it won't stop blinking now. I'm going to try and drive it this evening and see if it's in 4H still or not. But at this point I might just take it to Toyota. Feeling like I'm banging my head against a brick wall.
     
  19. Jun 13, 2020 at 6:24 PM
    #19
    TnShooter

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    @BirdPerson42

    Sorry to hear that, it’s possible it could be the Transfer Case Actuator.
    But you’d think it would have trouble going from 4H and 4L.
    If it is stuck in 4WD, you may have to pull the Transfer Case Actuator and be sure it is in 2H.
    Then, just in case, maybe leave it unplugged until you get it to the shop.
    That way, it can not go in to 4WD, if for some reason it’s a 4WD ECU problem.

    When you do figure it out, please let us know what it was.
     
  20. Jun 19, 2020 at 4:58 PM
    #20
    BirdPerson42

    BirdPerson42 [OP] Member

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    Alright. I think I've come to a point where I think I know what is causing my weird issue. The gear that meshes with the screw gear from the motor looks worn down. Obviously I can't tell because for them to mesh you have to put the two ends toger
    I think I may have found the issue. The gear that meshes with the screw gear on the motor looks worn. Which would explain why if I manually slide the dif to unlock and move it to the correct position and reinstall it stays in 2H but doesn't recognize it's fully disengaged(little sensor isn't perfectly lined up plus the motor keeps spinning. This would also explain why I will sometimes be able to put it back into 4H when the sleeve in the dog is perfectly lined up
    So I think I've found the issue. The plastic gear that meshes with the metal worm gear attached to the motor is worn. That would explain why it will sometimes catch and push it into lock but can't fully get it unlocked. I will randomly be able to get I to 4H but never out of it. And when I manually slide the sleeve to unlocked and reinstall the actuator it will just blink. But won't fully disengage (although it is essentially in 2H now) I imagine the motor just spins and makes it worse whole the vehicle runs. I'm going to with try and find that gear to replace or if I can't find that bite the bullet and get a new actuator.(sorry for the wired post. I'm on mobile and my phone kept freezing the site)
     

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