Cant get a firm pedal after bleeding brakes

Glad you got it fixed!

 

"they were holding down pedal cause they were telling me they were" What does that mean ?

 

X2

My husband and I work together on this. When he's ready, he'll say *DOWN* and I'll push my foot down on the brake till it hits the floor and say *DOWN* and leave my foot there. He'll open up the bleeder and let it flow. He'll close the bleeder and say *UP* and I know to let my foot off the brake and I'll say *UP*. We'll repeat this process several times for each wheel.

I can tell by the 'pedal feel' that he's getting the air bubbles out just by how firm the pedal feels during the bleeding process.

 

I gave up on the two-people approach and got a vacuume bleeder...very simple and faster than pumping the pedal.

 

Something is still messed up with my brakes. I installed front brake lines and bled the shit out of them doing it in the proper fashion you all describe. It got better but only to a point. Just the other day I bought a vacuum bleeder and now my brakes feel worse.

There's something strange though because when I pump up the vacuum everything is good. Than as soon as I crack open the bleeder I get more air than I do oil. Thing is I've bled a shit ton of oil through each bleeder and the result is the same. It's like air leaks into the bleeder when I open it. Maybe I need to put some grease around the bleeder to make a better seal.

ideas?

 

I just replaced my rear brake lines and bled them. I was very careful because the Haynes/Chiltons manual says something roughly like this:

"If you get air into the master cylinder, the car will need to be towed to the dealer to have the master cylinder bled with special equipment."

How much fluid drained out of the rear brake lines while you had them off for replacement? Could air have escaped all the way to the master cylinder? As soon as I disconnected mine, I clamped off the old lines with a vice grip to seal it while I attached the new line to the "brake" end, and then took off the clamped line at the "master cylinder" end only when I was immediately ready to thread on the new line that was already threaded on to the "brake" end.

I didn't say that very well but the point is that I made sure the line to the master cylinder was open to the air for a very short period of time to minimize the amount of fluid escaping and air sneaking in.

 

As I read your post again, I also wonder if you've simply got a leak in the line??

 

I doubt it because I've been driving it this way for a month now and other than a spongy brake pedal everything seems to remain constant. Haven't needed to add oil nor has the problem gotten worse just by driving. I think the master cylinder must have air in it. Is there no way to bleed the air out of the master cylinder using normal garage tools?

I think I'll just take it to toyota and pay their F'ing $100 to flush the brake lines. That's bull! One day they'll make cars that the owner can't even change his own oil I bet. Anything to make a buck.

 

Check this thread - http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/111214-help-i-cant-stop-bleeding.html - air coming in through the threads on the bleeder valve.

 

you start from the r/r to bleed the brakes then go to the l/r
then the r/f then l/f

 

Yup, been there, done that. Same result

 

Read this shortly after I posted here. What a coincidence. I think tomorrow evening I'll give that a try. What is that orange clay like compound that comes on threads of airhoses to make a good seal? Might work better than grease even.

 

I've dealt with bleeding brakes alot. Everyone's suggestions on here are exacly right.

To bleed the master cylinder all you need to do is follow the same process as when you bleed the brake calipers. Have someone press the brake pedal and then crack open the lines at the master cylinder until the fluid shoots out solid with no bubbling. Do one line at a time, one line is for the front brakes, the other is for the rear brakes.

Also, after you get the bleeding part done, I would go find a dirt lot or road and do some ABS stops and get your ABS pump to activate, this can help firm up the pedal.

 

Question

1) When you say bleed the lines coming from the master cylinder, you mean just loosen the line until solid oil squirts out the threads? I mean its not really a bleeder valve in the true sense, correct?

2) What do you recommend more, a vaccum gun, or the old method (brake pedal pumping). Everyone told me this vacuum tool was the thing to use if you wanted to spend some money. However, these dam bleeders are sucking air around the threads.

 

1) Just loosen the line like a 1/4 turn while someone presses and holds the brake pedal down, when the fluid comes out in a solid stream it's good to go. Just like a regular bleeder valve. No it is not a regular bleeder valve, but this is how you bleed a master cylinder. I do this all the time at work (I'm ASE certified in Braking systems).

2) I personally like the old fashioned way with 2 people. It's never failed me before. It's how I do it at work. The vacuum bleeders do work, but you have to be patient with them.