Can't remove (stuck) transmission pan

Hi,

My mom asked me to change her transmission fluid after being recommended by the 'stealership'. She has never done that at 150,000 miles. Her Tacoma is a 2013 2WD 2.7L (automatic).

I bought a filter kit from RockAuto that comes with a cork pan gasket, filter and ring but didn't end up using any of them because the damn pan was glued/cemented. I took some pictures and noticed some pink residue maybe thread lock or some kind of gasket seal paste that dried out and now its fused. I tried banging it with a rubber mallet or pull it with pliers but didn't want to bend it so I stopped.

Her transmission has a dipstick and it says: "No need to replace ATF under normal driving conditions". When I drained the fluid, it was still nice red in color so I guess the filter was still good. I must say, she drives like a grandma and doesn't step on it or uses her truck as a truck. So, I decided not to force remove the pan anymore and leave the it untouched.

I basically did a drain and refill (took 4.5 quarts to refill).

Any recommendations? Should I have tried to remove the pan somehow and replace the filter? Is it ok that I just did a drain and refill? The old fluid looked nice and clean.

Here are the pictures:

 

• Short answer - (and not technically the best answer)

If it is already back together and not leaking, I’d leave it alone.

• Long Answer - (and still not the best answer)

Sure, changing the filter would definitely be a plus and is recommended.
But it’s already back together, and you don’t get all the fluid out with a drain.
So, you’ll basically be draining a mix of old and new fluid. Which means, you shouldn’t reuse the fluid that comes out.

• Short Best Answers -

You should drop the pan, change the filter, and refill with new fluid.
(And you need to get all that old gasket maker off. All of it.
Then reapply new gasket maker, and bolt it up. Let it dry, fill it, and drive it.)

 

Did she buy it new or used?
Well someone has had that pan off.

That certainly isn't the factory FIP Gasket material.

 

A drain and refill is probably sufficient. But, if you should decide to revisit dropping the pan.....
Use a 2-3" wide putty knife, and using a hammer, tap the knife between the pan and tranny housing, then keep working around the pan until it drops free....clean up the mess.

 

It is a wise man who stops before its too late.

 

When I encounter this, to get it off, find a way to get my 5’ long pry bar against it. Use wood blocks if necessary. Hammer a gasket scraper between through the glue. Try to destroy neither halves but when given a choice, destroy the pan. Once you have a break in the glue, pry down on the pan a little. Then use the big pry bar to pry sideways. If it doesn’t give, pry from another spot. Most of the time you’ll hear it start to creak breaking loose. Sometimes it’ll just pop off. Sometimes it takes a combination of prying sideways, down, hammering. Most come off easily. Some are a battle.

Those stamped steel type pans bend pretty easily. Once bent, resealing isn’t always successful. If it’s a customer vehicle and they complain about buying a new pan, I tell them reusing the old pan, there will be no guarantee it won’t leak. If it leaks, you’ll be repaying again to have it redone with a new pan.

I like to do it right the first time. Get the pan off, remove the old glue, let it drip overnight. Be patient getting the glue off, don’t gouge. I’ve used spray on gasket remover but that stuff is wicked nasty. You don’t want it on your skin or inhale the fumes and definitely don’t want any in your eyes. Next day double check I got all old glue off, clean both surfaces, install. If using glue, leave it to dry FULLY overnight. Next day add new fluid, check for leaks with fingers crossed.

Getting the glue off the old bolts is nearly impossible, even soaking in gas & using a wire brush. New bolts are cheap. I like to use, I think they’re called flanged bolts.